Chef Suresh Pillai’s Nirvana Feast tasting menu is nothing short of culinary heaven in a meal. Gourmands in Delhi-NCR recently had the opportunity to sample his modern take on Kerala cuisine at a pop-up at The Westin Gurgaon.
The 45-year-old chef has been working in kitchens since his teenage years, rising through the ranks with sheer passion and grit. After a long stint in London, where he worked in Michelin-starred restaurants like Veeraswamy and Trishna, and also regaled audiences with his appearance on BBC’s MasterChef: The Professionals, Chef Pillai is now based in India, where he runs his own restaurant chains, with branches in the Middle East.
He was in Delhi-NCR recently, where he cooked up a storm at The Westin Gurgaon from 15 - 17 November. Known for his innovative interpretations of traditional Kerala dishes, his Nirvana Feast menu kicked off with Sambharam Kadumanga — buttermilk and pickled mango served inside a pani puri. Starters like the Cauliflower Porippu and Inji Puli Chicken Wings showcased inventive flavour combinations, while mains such as Avial, Ulli Theeyal, Travancore Kozhi Roast, and Lamb Ularthu — all to be mopped up with appams and soft, fluffy Malabar nool parottas — were Kerala classics executed to perfection.
The main course of Nirvana Feast served at the event
he highlight of the Nirvana Feast menu was undoubtedly the Neymeen Nirvana, Chef Pillai’s signature Portuguese-inspired seared fish, pan-fried and slow-cooked in coconut milk with ginger, chillies, and curry leaves, then wrapped in a banana leaf. Truly, nirvana on a plate. The Palada Cheesecake, a quirky interpretation of payasam, paired with some Sulaimani chai, brought diners gently back to earth.
The understated and ever-smiling Chef Pillai — who also nurses a passion for acting and has appeared in several Malayalam productions — spoke to My Kolkata about his amazing and unexpected journey in the world of restaurants.
My Kolkata: Your entry into professional kitchens was not really planned. How exactly did it come about?
Suresh Pillai: Growing up in a small village in Kollam, my dreams were never large-scale. Life took its turns and I found myself waiting tables at a hotel in my city. With the grace of some great, helpful people around me, I was able to go deeper into the kitchen and subsequently the restaurant and hospitality business, where I am today. The entry was never conscious — but everything post that, has been.
How did the move to London come about? What was the experience of working in legendary London restaurants like Veeraswamy?
After I started settling into my job, my dreams started growing — and the biggest of them was to work abroad in a reputed kitchen. I’m grateful that the opportunity to work with an iconic brand like Veeraswamy came early on — because that stint moulded me into the chef that I am today. It was in that kitchen that I learnt and unlearned a lot about the science of gastronomy.
How has your experience been working in Michelin-starred restaurants?
I haven’t gotten one (Michelin star) yet — but over the course of my career, I’ve been privileged enough to have worked in Michelin-star restaurants like Veeraswamy, Gymkhana and Trishna. The discipline and attention to detail that I learnt first-hand will always remain with me and my kitchens.
Restaurant Chef Pillai Bangalore was his first attempt at an approachable fine-dining experience
What is the core of your food philosophy?
My core philosophy of food has always been the joy of feeding — your responsibility as a chef should be to make sure the food evokes happiness. Every time I sit down to create a new dish, I always go back to the basics — salt, fat, acid and heat (as the American chef Samin Nosrat would say). The focus has been, and always will be, to get the maximum flavour out of all the ingredients.
What are some of your signature creations?
Over the course of my career, I’ve come up with my fair share of creations, but some have stood the test of time and public appeal. My signature dish, in that respect, would be the Fish Nirvana. Other crowd-favourite dishes are Inji Puli Chicken Wings, Venad Paal Konju and Unniyappam Falooda.
Can you explain the concept of the Nirvana Feast menu that you served at The Westin Gurgaon?
It was while I was in Europe that I first heard of and experienced a tasting menu. Ever since opening my restaurant, I’ve wanted to put my spin on it — and that’s how Nirvana Feast was born. I’m glad that it finally reached the food enthusiasts of Delhi-NCR at The Westin Gurgaon.
Prawn, paneer and chicken wings served as starters and (right) Neymeen Nirvana aka Fish Nirvana and (right) Amit Dixit
What are the highlights of the Nirvana Feast?
The Nirvana Feast is basically a sharing concept between starters, main course and dessert. The starters feature fusion dishes, with the main course of authentic Kerala cuisine, which ensures that the patrons get a full experience of the flavour profiles of the famed state cuisine.
You were a contestant in BBC MasterChef: The Professionals. What was that experience like? What dishes did you cook on the show?
BBC’s MasterChef changed the trajectory of my career — after being featured, I grew from being a small-time Malayali chef to being exposed to a whole different crowd nationally and internationally. That also meant that my native cuisine got a lot more attention and eyeballs — as it truly deserves — and I’m happy that happened.
During my stint, I cooked a course with pan-fried hake, curry leaf-infused potato masala cake, mackerel mango curry sauce, seaweed pachadi and coriander sea salt oil for the judges.
What made you move back to India?
I was in the UK for over 16 years with a family of four, more or less settled there. The decision to move back to India was a temporary one originally, with the aim of exploring the country outside the state I grew up in. But, in hindsight, that decision changed the course of my life. Not only did I not go back to the UK, I ended up setting up my entire life here — and I wouldn’t have it any other way now.
What was your first stint on returning to India?
The opportunity to come back to India came through Dr Ravi Pillai and the Raviz hotel group. I was there for about four years, starting out as a corporate chef and leaving as culinary director — polishing and improving my skills in the kitchen and administration.
Diners tuck into some delectable fare at The Westin Gurgaon’s Nirvana Feast collab with chef Suresh Pillai
Tell us a bit about setting up your own restaurant chain.
Right after my stint at the Raviz, I ventured out into the most adventurous attempt of my life — starting my own restaurant. When I started Restaurant Chef Pillai Bangalore, in 2021, I wouldn’t have thought in my wildest dreams that I’d be here three years later.
All I wanted to do was introduce Kerala to a finer, nuanced and global approach to food. Twenty-five restaurants later, the dream is still intact, only much bigger and better now.
What are some of the different restaurant concepts you have come up with? What sort of cuisines do you serve in your restaurants?
We started out with Restaurant Chef Pillai, which was my attempt at an approachable fine-dining experience. It’s now diversified into 13 brands including North Rasoi (north Indian cuisine), Thenga Manga (cloud kitchen), Meen (seafood), Sanchari (travel-friendly concept), and Caking (desserts and bakery), with more in the pipeline.
Given your humble beginnings, did you ever think you would reach so far and achieve what you have achieved?
I’m sure I’ve told this story several times, but the fact of the matter is that I was just a 17-year-old boy, who managed to be in the right place at the right time — and worked hard at every opportunity that came to me. Throughout my career, I have had the pleasure of serving millions of people, and names I look up to including Gordon Ramsay, Jamie Oliver, Roger Federer, Tiger Woods and Virat Kohli — names that the 17-year-old could only have dreamt about.
I did what I loved, I loved what I did — and that worked out great in the end. Looking forward to whatever life has in store for me!
