Shantipur taant got a celebration of its own at a fashion showcase organised by the Birla Academy of Art and Culture, which gave centrestage to the weaves of Bengal. On August 8, a day after National Handloom Day, the Crafts Council of West Bengal (CCWB), Birla Academy of Art and Culture and Ssahaworks Studio presented ‘The Threads of Time’ — a story of reviving Shantipur textiles.
Veteran actress Moon Moon Sen was the chief guest of the evening. A talk was held between Ruby Palchoudhuri, founder and president emeritus CCWB and Amitra Sudan Saha, revivalist, Ssahaworks Studio. There was also an informative exhibition on the process and art of Bengal’s handloom and a ramp show where women from various backgrounds showcased these weaving techniques in innovative styles.
Different kinds of threads used in weaving on display in the exhibition All photos by Amit Datta
Tradition on the ramp
Coordinated by the Earth Day Network India, women from various backgrounds walked the ramp at the Birla Academy of Art and Culture draped in Bengal’s finest handloom saris. The saris were acquired and curated from various sources, including by Amitra Sudan Saha, and were all woven by weavers of Shantipur. The models, all non-professionals, walked to the Rabindrasangeet melodies, sung live by Tanima Sinha and Mondira Basak of CCWB.
The models who walked the ramp in Bengal's handloom saris
Poet Iryna Vikyrchak, who is also the president of Kolkata International Women's Club, wore a violet Shantipuri taant sari with a big blue bow around the waist. Delighted to participate in the fashion show, the Ukrainian poet said, “I love what I am wearing. It is so elegant and comfortable. It is a great opportunity for me to be a part of the movement to support Bengal’s weavers.”
The models were women from all walks of life, some of them expats in India, and every one embraced the traditional saris making it their own by draping them in contemporary ways. Madhusatta Chaudhury, a yoga coach by profession, made her entry on the ramp in a blue shirt-style blouse and a pink Shantipuri taant. “Although hailing from Bengal, I have never worn a Shantipuri sari. Today for the first time I got the opportunity and I feel very pretty. You can see how beautiful and colourful my final look is!” she said.
Poet Iryna Vikyrchak
Reviving an art
In a chat with the audience, Moon Moon Sen, Ruby Palchoudhuri and Amitra Sudan Saha spoke about the legacy of Indian and Bengal weaves and the need to empower artisans and protect these craft traditions.
Ruby Palchoudhuri is an expert voice in the realm of art revival and documentation in India. Speaking about traditional Bengal handlooms, she said, “The heritage needs to be preserved and the way forward is to support the weavers. History of mulmul production in India, particularly in Bengal, dates back to over 2,000 years. Westerners considered mulmul or muslin a luxury (item). Even the Satgaon kanthas, recently revived by Crafts Council West Bengal, is a part of Bengal’s textile history.” She also spoke about the rich heritage of Baluchari saris of Bengal.
L-R: Ruby Palchoudhuri, Moon Moon Sen and Amitra Sudan Saha at the discussion
Revivalist Amitra Sudan Saha also spoke about legendary Indian weavers and the work of Crafts Council in bringing back lost traditional weaves. Thanking the Crafts Council he said, “Ruby di is an inspiration for all of us working for the revival of Indian weaves. At this age too, it is wonderful to see her energy. Her legacy and work cannot be summed up in a few words. It might take days to acknowledge the work she has done in this space.”
Showcasing an artistic legacy
In the gallery on the first floor of Birla Academy of Art and Culture, an exhibition curated by Saha, documented the history and art of saris in India through various installations and displays. Among these, was a display on the numerous types of threads used in India for weaving. Exactly how thread is spun and the process started was demonstrated live by an artisan who was present at the gallery with his spinning wheel. Accompanying the entire display was a documentary on Bengal’s weavers.
Visitors looking at an informative installation on saris set up in the Birla gallery
Crafts of various other kinds including works of silver and terracotta art from the house of Artisana by the CCWB shared space with the handwoven saris and textiles.
Attending the event as one of the Chief Guests, actress Moon Moon Sen — who has always had a special spot for saris and loves wearing them — said that the elegance of Bengal’s handlooms is always admired by all. “I am delighted to be here today in support of our Bengal’s heritage and weavers. Since I started going to college, I have only worn sarees. Even when I became an actress and then a politician, I travelled around in Bengal’s handloom saris and people would always admire the sheer elegance.”
Moon Moon Sen takes a look at handicrafts from Artisana
Speaking about the event, Anjum Katyal, honorary general secretary, CCWB, said, “Crafts Council of West Bengal’s celebration of National Handloom Day has a special significance given Bengal’s centuries long pre-eminence in handwoven textiles, known the world over — particularly the fabled muslin. We are delighted to pay tribute to two rich weaving sari traditions of this region: the Baluchari and the Shantipuri, which make our state proud.”
An artisan giving a live demo of the spinning of threads for weaving
