In an age when restaurants come and go with alarming speed, Olive — which just turned 21 — is one of the enduring legends of Delhi’s restaurant scene. To mark the occasion, the restaurant that enjoys a magical setting under a sprawling banyan tree in Mehrauli, saw a bar takeover by Lucy’s Flower Shop, Stockholm, on November 23 and 24. Before that, the bartenders had enthralled patrons at Olive’s Mumbai and Goa locations on November 21 and 22, respectively.

In 2022, just three years into its existence, Lucy’s Flower Shop made it to Number 49 on the World’s 50 Best Bars list. A basement speakeasy in downtown Stockholm, its entrance hidden behind an empty florist shop, Lucy’s has managed to wow guests with its deceptively simple cocktails, rarely comprising more than four ingredients, proving the point that cocktails don’t have to be overly complicated to taste great.

At the three Olives, Lucy’s presented slightly different cocktail menus, all inspired by local ingredients

At the three Olives, Lucy’s presented slightly different cocktail menus, all inspired by local ingredients. Delhi had four signature cocktails on offer: Lemon & Pomelo, Pineapple & Cardamom, Guava & Tamarind, and Chai & Ginger. It was difficult to choose a favourite, but I think I was partial to the familiar and comforting vibes of the spiced Chai & Ginger.

Oscar Jonsson Buhre, head bartender of Lucy’s Flower Shop, was one of the two bartenders helming the takeover, the other being the effervescent Jinda Cibran. Together, they kept the bar running smoothly even as it heaved with Delhi’s swish set. “We work with vinegar as the main acid and flavour-bearing component when crafting our cocktails,” explained Oscar. “We’ve created many crazy cocktails, but I would say the Lemon & Pomelo really showcases how we care for the produce and small producers and go all the way with it. We use and reuse the leftovers to make our amazing cocktails,” he added.

Bartenders Oscar Jonsson Buhre and Jinda Cibran

Ola Carlson, co-founder, Lucy’s Flower Shop, told My Kolkata from Stockholm that they had been working with the Olive Group for a long time to make the takeover happen and were glad they were able to showcase their cocktails in three different destinations in India. On the success of Lucy’s, he said, “Lucy’s Flower Shop is known for great music, great vibes, great atmosphere, great drinks, and amazing staff. I think, all together, that creates a unique space.” On where India ranks in the global bar stakes, he said, “India’s arrived on the international scene, but we’ve seen it coming for a while. It may not be booming, but I see small fragments of it. And within a year or two, it’s going to be one of the main players.”

Pomegranate Meadows and Birch Raspberry cocktails

Of course, we had to ask the legendary restaurateur A.D. Singh how he felt about his restaurant Olive turning 21. “I’m ⁠so very happy that it's still amongst the best restaurants in the country…The food, the warmth, the whole experience just seems to be getting better and better,” he said. He attributed the restaurant’s success to “hard work, great teams and, of course, our ancient Bargad (banyan) tree.”

The secret sauce, of course, has been the innovative approach and refusing to rest on their laurels. Over the last 21 years, Olive has introduced the capital to a long list of innovative, culinary firsts. These include the concept of a pop-up within a restaurant; a 16-course degustation (tasting) menu in 2006 along with the farm-to-fork concept; pioneering molecular gastronomy the same year; seasonal summer and winter menus with seasonal ingredients, new trends and techniques; the Tasting Lab, a concept based on extensive research with local produce, and use of traditional Indian cooking techniques in Western and European cuisine; and a big push for sustainability — working with local farms, healthy produce, fresh cooking, zero wastage and no plastic.

Buhre and Cibran in action behind the bar Amit Dixit

Singh is all praise for the current team as well. “Chef Dhruv and his team are very passionate about the food and are always doing their best to give a great dining experience. Similarly, Harish and his team of mixologists have created cutting-edge cocktails and a very strong beverage programme here. We all love Olive and our passion and efforts lead to a very loyal relationship with our customers,” he said.

Indeed, chef Dhruv Oberoi showcases a progressive European and Mediterranean menu that celebrates the abundance of seasonal flora, fauna and treasures of the ocean and has really propelled Olive’s culinary offerings to the next level. His delicious snacks served as the perfect foil to the amazing cocktails that Lucy’s Flower Shop served up for two magical nights in Delhi.