Ever since I began working in hospitality, I’ve admired Chef Gaggan Anand’s visionary approach to Indian cuisine. Born in Kolkata and later moving to Bangkok, Gaggan’s groundbreaking dishes and innovative techniques quickly gained international acclaim, making his restaurant a beacon of global fine dining. His relentless pursuit of culinary excellence and unique, and emotive dining experiences have solidified his status as one of the most influential chefs of his generation. Voted No.3 in Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants 2024 and crowned The Best Restaurant in Asia 2024 at The World’s 50 Best Restaurants, a meal at Gaggan was naturally at the top of my culinary bucket list.
I’ve had the pleasure of meeting him in India during his highly anticipated culinary tours and have always marvelled at his unfiltered demeanour, rebellious audacity, and phoenix-like rise from various setbacks.
So, what’s it really like to eat at Gaggan Anand’s food-opera theatre?
The main act
Upon arrival, we were welcomed into an intimate 14-seater setting where theatrical cooking took centre stage. Each guest was taken on a multi-sensory journey of touch, sound, lights, smell, taste, and surprise, combined and served as an artistic production.
Head Chef Fábio Costa with the author
Head Chef Fábio Costa informed us,“The meal is divided into 22 courses, and 5 of them are desserts!” He then set some house rules: “Silence during course presentations, no camera flashes to preserve the ambiance, and phone calls should be taken outside.” These rules ensure every guest can fully immerse themselves in the evening. I happily turned off my phone data, using it only for photos (with the flash turned off, of course!).
Sommelier Kojic Vladimir introduced the wine pairings with each dish before the curtains rose. A native of Serbia, Vladimir paired nine different wines across the 22-course menu, explaining, “It isn’t traditional cuisine that fits one wine per course.” For dessert, he served sparkling wine to balance the sweetness.
There were nine different wines across the 22-course menu
Without a menu to guide us, the excitement built with each course. Every dish was introduced with a story, sometimes true, sometimes playful. For instance, the blood-stained brains served might or might not have been a rat’s. “These rats are raised in the basement,” chef Fabio quipped, leaving us diners flabbergasted!
‘Rat has Brains’. Every dish was introduced with a story, sometimes true, sometimes playful
Some of my favourite dishes included: Green Asparagus Sunflower, Coffee Foie Waffle, Crab Cauliflower and Mustard, and the Vinha Dal’hos taco.“Reach out for this in the dark and savour every bite,” chef Fabio instructed as the lights dimmed for the taco course. While I could describe each dish in detail, you’d be better off experiencing it yourself. After all, Bangkok is just a short flight away!
The Green Asparagus Sunflower. The food journey is based on the 5 “S” — Sweet, Sour, Salty, Spicy, and Surprise
Watching the dishes arrive felt like being inside a cool ’90s pop/rock album. The music seamlessly collaborated with the flow of the menu. Garnishes were dropped to specific beats, flames illuminated the room while the team sang “You are my fire” from the Backstreet Boys, and we used our hands to savour each bite, texture, and flavour. Chef Fabio, like a seasoned opera conductor, ensured the timing of the songs and food presentations was impeccable. Only two courses came with cutlery; guests were encouraged to use their hands for a fully immersive experience.
You have to be there to truly understand how seamlessly Chef Gaggan has incorporated music into his food
At one point, I stopped eating and started singing along to my favourite Britney Spears song while the servers jived along. You have to be there to truly understand how seamlessly Chef Gaggan has incorporated music into his food.
Music and food both evoke strong emotions, creating lasting memories and artistic expressions. Songs convey emotions and behaviours, while a menu resembles a music album — each song or course representing a step in a journey, guiding you through life’s highs and lows.
Coffee Foie Waffle
The show ended with us literally licking our plates, a signature Gaggan Anand dish that makes you let go of all inhibitions. Some of us then moved to the cosy bar right outside the restaurant, where chefs and guests gathered around a long table. We shared mezcal shots and lively conversations about food, cultures, and communities — a perfect way to unwind after an Emmy-worthy dining experience.
Drum rolls and applause
What fascinated me about this act is that every chef got their moment in the sun. Each dish was attributed to a different kitchen star, allowing them to tell their food stories their way. Chef Aprajita Bhattacharya, a Kolkata girl, made me nostalgic with her Crab with Cauliflower and Mustard Sauce. It tasted like Bengal in a bowl but with the freshest seafood from Thailand! Chef Fabio emphasised the importance of reading the room and getting live reactions from diners after each story or song.
Kolkata girl Aprajita Bhattacharya (left) is behind the Crab with Cauliflower and Mustard Sauce at Gaggan’s
I loved learning about the specific techniques that went into crafting each dish and how long it took to perfect them. The interactive nature of the meal, akin to performing unscripted, serious jokes, embraced risk and spontaneity, creating a unique atmosphere without heavy reliance on digital technology. By the end of the meal, I had befriended guests from all over the world, because after 2.5 hours of eating, chatting, cheering, and singing together, this was bound to happen!
A theatrical masterpiece
Indian culinary maestro Gaggan Anand is revolutionising the fine-dining landscape with his avant-garde approach, aiming to craft an unparalleled gastronomic journey that engages all the senses and stirs deep emotions. His menu, a pioneering rendition of progressive Indian cuisine, masterfully integrates influences from French, Thai, and Japanese traditions.
While I missed meeting Chef Gaggan during my maiden visit (he was in Las Vegas to receive top honours at the World 50 Best Awards), I was blown away by what Head Chef Fabio and his team of talented young chefs and service professionals had put together.
Anand’s creative process is deeply rooted in the emotional responses his dishes elicit. He strives to create connections among diners, aiming to prevent the modern-day pitfall of diners engrossed in their phones. By presenting dishes that forge new memories, Gaggan engages his customers in a way that prompts curiosity and wonder. He envisions his restaurant as a place that inspires awe and questioning, making guests ponder the innovation and originality behind each dish.
At Gaggan, nothing is ordinary, but there is a handcrafted, perfected method to the madness! Go for the theatrics, stay for the food!
Here’s the complete list of Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants 2024.
