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The many charms of Thailand’s capital city – Bangkok

A planned ecosystem has placed Bangkok at the very pinnacle of travel and tourism destinations, especially in the Asian circuit, writes Sundeep Bhutoria

Sundeep Bhutoria Published 02.05.24, 06:03 PM
Modern-day Bangkok is synonymous with many things exceptional

Modern-day Bangkok is synonymous with many things exceptional Shutterstock

Thailand’s capital city of Bangkok has an appeal that is hard to ignore. For decades now, this cosmopolitan tourism and commercial hub of South-East Asia has been welcoming visitors from across the globe. Modern-day Bangkok is synonymous with many things exceptional, including unbelievable spas, easy availability of a whole rainbow of international and traditional cuisine, an uncompromising attitude towards hygiene, and a welcoming attitude to please and greet all that pass through. The sum of these has created an ecosystem that has placed Bangkok at the very pinnacle of travel and tourism destinations, especially in the Asian circuit.

S̄wạs̄dī is Thai for hello – the greeting you hear everywhere in this land. Tourism is among the biggest industries and the Thai government has enabled special privileges for tourists to come and enjoy themselves in the country. Indian tourists comprise the bulk of the arrivals and because of this, the Royal Thai government has waived visa fees for Indian tourists for a stay of thirty days or less till May 2024.

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Bangkok has always been a favourite destination of mine and the location of many stopovers while on international trips. Of the many places I have had the privilege of experiencing, I have no hesitation in stating that Bangkok stands apart in luxury hospitality. I always stay at the Grand Hyatt Erawan Bangkok, which is probably the last word for relaxation for both business and leisure travellers. There are many dining options there, each of which creates a wonderful and satisfying experience. There’s the Erawan Tea Room for Thai food and The Dining Room with its grand buffet, the Italian restaurant Salvia and Gaston, the French bistro.

The Garden Lounge of the Grand Hyatt Erawan Bangkok

The Garden Lounge of the Grand Hyatt Erawan Bangkok Grand Hyatt Erawan Bangkok

During a recent short work visit to the city, I added two new locations to my gastronomic exploration. Both additions were conveniently near my hotel. The first was the Jharokha by Indus, headed by the amazing Sid Sehgal. The décor is a throwback to the legendary polo clubs of the princely states of Rajasthan, with elegant archways and eye-catching mahogany wood furniture and plush leather upholstery. There’s an unforgettable view of the city made possible by the tall and unobstructed glass windows. A jharokha is a palace window through which the royals would gaze upon those below, so the name is fitting.

The food is curated by Chef Sanket Hoskote. The use of charcoal ovens alongside traditional spices, imported from India, leads to exceptional results. Chef Hoskote has brought in the full gamut of the experience that he’s gathered from his stint in Dubai and created a spread that caters to both vegetarians and non-vegetarians. The kurkure paratha and kadhi pakoda are served in a unique Jharokha style. The ice creams, Keshar Falooda Kulfis and extremely satisfying sorbets are no less than works of art.

A platter from Jharokha by Indus

A platter from Jharokha by Indus @jharokhabyindus/Instagram

A special dish that caught my attention but could not savour being a vegetarian was the Crab Pani Puri. From the reactions and the opinions I could gather, it seems an experience not to be missed. Other recommendations for non-vegetarians are the buttercream king oyster mushrooms with morel mushroom gravy and Kashmiri-inspired stuffing and their Batak Seekh Kebab, an all-time Delhi classic, with spiced Korat duck mince that’s grilled on a charcoal tandoor, served with delectable smoked flatbreads and a pineapple chutney.

My other great experience with food during this trip was at Gaggan Anand’s new partnership with Louis Vuitton, a recent and prestigious addition to Bangkok’s culinary scene. The Louis Vuitton Cafes are present in cities such as Paris and Tokyo, but the one in Bangkok is unique in that it offers four different components, namely a café, store, exhibition space and restaurant. Chef Anand helms the restaurant Gaggan at Louis Vuitton, and his popularity and skill are clear when one sees the long queues of people who line up patiently each day. Tables are fully booked two months in advance and only six lucky walk-in guests can partake daily. I attempted to reserve a table only to be told that this was not actually ‘my day’. Later, I got a call saying there was a table available at the café, and I could book in the evening. I agreed instantly.

Gaggan at Louis Vuitton, where tables are fully booked two months in advance and only six lucky walk-in guests can partake daily

Gaggan at Louis Vuitton, where tables are fully booked two months in advance and only six lucky walk-in guests can partake daily Louis Vuitton

I often have doubts when I hear restaurants are fully booked months ahead, claims I have encountered at prestigious establishments in New York, London and Geneva. It always makes me wonder whether this is a fact or a well-executed publicity exercise that serves to heighten the demand and hype.

Anyhow, I arrived at my table to find Le Café Louis Vuitton’s interiors sport a botanical theme adorned with the brand’s iconic motifs. The items on offer, such as the Mango Sticky Rice Fizz, Mango Tart, cookies and cakes are not just delicious but are also objects that are a joy to behold. Most of their offering runs out in no time and this is something I experienced firsthand as I had wanted to take back some mango tarts for my hotel concierge, who had recommended the café in the first place, but could not as they were sold out.

Bangkok has a dark side too. It must duel with its reputation for being the capital of sex tourism

Bangkok has a dark side too. It must duel with its reputation for being the capital of sex tourism Shutterstock

Despite being a modern world tourist destination with a vibrant culture, Bangkok has a dark side too. It must duel with its reputation for being the capital of sex tourism. This is a legacy that has roots in World War II when US soldiers posted in the region descended in their hundreds. In more recent years, the sparkling nightlife worked its charm to attract tourists but also brought in some modern-day irritants such as crime, transport problems, housing woes, insufficient water supply, drainage and other forms of pollution. The Thai administration has worked overtime to address these issues with strict curbs and legislation, owing to which Bangkok has held on to its coveted position of being a cosmopolitan, family tourist-friendly commercial hub of Asia.

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