There’s plenty to do in Darjeeling, even in the monsoons. The hill station, which is one of West Bengal’s most popular tourist destinations, has no dearth of options when it comes to cafes, restaurants and roadside stalls, or even places to visit. But if you’re looking to take a road less-travelled and discover hidden gems, these recommendations are for you.
Have Chicken Wings and Beer at Anita’s
Karo Christine Kumar
Move aside momos; hello chicken wings! In our quest for discovering lesser-known things to eat in Darjeeling, Mridula Singh (who grew up in Darjeeling and runs a lovely cottage homestay Kaleege House in Takdah), told us about a little diner near Nerdvana Bookstore & Cafe that serves chicken wings and beer. We tracked it down to Anita Restaurant, and a rickety flight of stairs led to this hangout filled with young locals enjoying a beer and yes, really good chicken wings. If you don’t mind simple interiors and wooden benches to park yourself, step in for some glug and spicy grub.
Shop souvenirs at The Yellow Box
Karo Christine Kumar
Walk into this homegrown design-led store with a padded wallet because you’re likely to fall in love with everything. The Yellow Box on Gandhi Road stocks ‘All Things Essential’ tote bags, ‘Clock Tower’ notebooks, fridge magnets, vinyl stickers and plenty of Darjeeling and mountain-themed souvenirs. You can also personalise items so if your BFF’s a Jung-kook fan, get his pretty face and #Army printed on a zippered cloth bag. It’ll be done in 30 minutes, so walk down to Keventers, have a vanilla softie and be back in a jiffy.
Budget stay at Hideout
A clear day in Darjeeling? Out come the cameras to capture Kanchenjunga from the Hideout’s cafe balcony Karo Christine Kumar
On a budget trip? This humble hideaway is Darjeeling’s best option for backpackers. Located next to SP Bungalow on Zakir Hussain Road and run by an enterprising Bhumika Gurung, Hideout meets travellers’ basic needs without the frills of a fancy stay. The best part? The hostel building houses the Hideout Travel Cafe, so a cup of hot chocolate on a rainy day or a honey-drizzled pancake is just a flight of steps away. The WiFi is good, too, and on a clear day, enjoy a balcony view of the snow-capped Kanchenjunga.
Pick up Dalle made in a local factory
Karo Christine Kumar
There’s a small factory on Uday Chand Road that produces dalle or the ‘hot chilli’ of the hill districts. It is run by the Lama family and led by Mohanish Lama, Kolkata’s music festival man. A bottle of Dalli's Dalle packs the same fire and feistiness as seen in the team of women from Alubari Basty working behind it, be it Dalle with Bamboo Shoot, Dalle Vinegar or Dalle Paste. The factory is not open to walk-ins but if you love these power-packed red balls, you can pick up a bottle from Keventers and Unique Sweets among other shops in Chowk Bazar. Learn more about the dalle-making factory here.
Get certified in permaculture at Tieedi Forest
Founded in 2016, Tieedi is an environment conservation organisation based out of Darjeeling. You can visit as a traveller or volunteer, live in their homestay and learn about permaculture, composting, zero waste, recycling, and in general how to make the world a better, greener place! There are Permaculture Design Certification Courses, the third edition of which is expected to start in November 2022.
Visit Butto Kristo Dham
Karo Christine Kumar
Most Kolkatans know about the ancestral home of the Paul family in Sovabazar, famous for its Jagaddhatri Puja. But there is this century-old enchanting mansion in Darjeeling (near Big Bazar on Laden La Road) that you just cannot miss if you’re walking down that stretch. It is believed that Butto Kristo built it between 1900 and 1910 with the aim to spread the word about western medicine in the remote parts of Bengal. Or perhaps, it was a summer getaway family home. Read more about Butto Kristo Paul here.
Try Sukuti or dried buffalo meat
Karo Christine Kumar
At the entrance to Robertson Road is a roadside diner called Mohan Eateries. Drop in for sukuti or dried buffalo meat, not available elsewhere easily. Wash it down with a chilled bottle of Sikkim’s famous Hit beer.
Hunt down where to eat Sel Roti
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Sel Roti or fried Nepali bread is not easily found in eating houses in Darjeeling, because it’s usually made for festive occasions. So your best bet is to befriend a local and request them to make it. After much hunting, however, we did track down a small eatery called Rita Tea Shop, which was selling this ring-shaped local rice bread. The Sel Roti is sold out by noon so make an early stop, and pair it with mulo ka achar or any vegetable achar and a cup of tea. Take the road that diverges left from the Mall fountain and Rita Tea Shop will be on the left-hand side of Zakir Hussain Road.
Buy a lottery ticket
Karo Christine Kumar
Stalls stocking lottery tickets come by as frequently as paan dokans in Kolkata. Some of the smaller towns even have Housie or Tambola evenings, where the folks gather in an open space to play. The overall optimism will urge you to buy a ticket, and, who knows, you might even win the jackpot! We didn’t, but hey, never say never.
