In many ways, The Red Room at The Lotus Palace in Chettinad is a microcosm of the region. This all-new heritage, luxury hotel is a throwback to a time when the Nattukottai Chettiars held sway. The Nattukottai Chettiars were a trading community whose business interests spread across Southeast Asia in the 19^th century. The socio-political changes in the 20^th century forced most of them to come back to India. Most of Chettinad’s imposing homes were built between the 1880s and the 1940s, and stand as testimony to the community’s phenomenal business success. Even today, the community runs some of Chennai’s largest corporate houses. Sandwiched in the arid belt between Pudukottai and Ramanathapuram are the 70-odd villages and towns that make up Chettinad; and almost every street has a fascinating tale.

The mansions of Chettinad

There are thousands of stunning mansions that are mostly uninhabited, except for the occasional wedding or a family reunion Shutterstock

Each of these villages is a treasure trove of design with everything from Art Deco to Tamil architecture in the mix. There are thousands of stunning mansions that are mostly uninhabited, except for the occasional wedding or a family reunion. A few of these have morphed into elegant boutique hotels. The Lotus Palace is probably the best example of a well-executed restoration. This was once the bungalow of a successful banker who built it as early as 1795. While most of the boutique hotels in the region have stuck to a template, The Park’s design sensibilities have brought a new approach, a fascinating blend of Chettinad heritage with the decadent. It is a wonderful tribute to the maximalist architecture that shaped most of Chettinad’s mansions.

Chettinad heritage

One of the rooms at The Lotus Palace The Lotus Palace

Almost every design element at the Lotus Palace makes a connection with the rich traditions of Chettinad. A fresh colour of turquoise green and hints of black are used for the tiles on the floor referencing to the traditional Athangudi tiles. A surge in demand for Chettinad’s glazed Athangudi tiles has led to a spurt in the number of tile manufacturers. The hotel can stage a visit to one of these units where you watch craftsmen in action and also order some of these handcrafted tiles that can be customised. I’d also suggest a visit to one of the weaving units (Like Senthilkumar Textiles in Karaikudi) that crafts Chettinad’s emblematic hand-woven cotton saris. Many of these units have tweaked the traditional Chettinad colour palette (olive green, red and yellow) and use mercerised cotton to make the saris lighter and more wearable.

One of India’s most evolved cuisines

If there’s one reason why I keep coming back to Chettinad, it’s the region’s unique cuisine. I’d like to think that Chettinad cuisine is among India’s most evolved. The Chettiars’ travels across Southeast Asia saw spices like star anise integrate into Chettinad Kitchens. Unfortunately many restaurants in Chennai and Bengaluru have misrepresented this cuisine as a fiery cuisine that numbs your taste buds.

The author tucks in to a Chettinad thali Ashwin Rajagopalan

Some of the finest cooks in the region remain on the payrolls of wealthy families or work for well-established caterers. Chettiar weddings are a gourmand’s delight. While you may not receive an invitation for a wedding in the region, you can savour the Chettinad Thali at the Lotus Palace or The Bangala, a heritage hotel in Karaikudi. Look out for signature dishes like the Okra Mandi (prepared with the water drained after washing the rice) or the melt in your mouth Kola Urundai (minced mutton balls). Evening tiffin borders on a ritual in many homes in Chettinad, the Lotus Palace orchestrates a high tea experience in the Red Room. Many local eateries serve evening favourites like Vellai Panniyaram (A fluffy white hopper made with rice and black gram) and Kummayam a subtly sweet dish made with lentils and jaggery.

Temples and other trails

The Ayannar temple near the Lotus Palace is a must-visit with its colourful terracotta horses Ashwin Rajagopalan

The Lotus Palace’s location in the heart of Kannadukathan allows you to explore the region’s architectural heritage with minimal effort. One of the my favourite Chettinad experiences is walking around these streets before breakfast. You can check out the imposing Chettinad Palace and scores of heritage homes (only a few of them allow visitors inside) within a one kilometre-radius. Most hotels like the Lotus Palace also offer guided tours to some of the region’s historic temples including the Pillaiyarpetti Temple, that boasts of a large 6 feet rock-cut Pillaiyar (Lord Ganesh). The Ayannar temple near the Lotus Palace is a must-visit with its colourful terracotta horses. Do make time to plan a sunset experience at the 17^th Thirumayam fort that is located next to the Sathyamurthi Perumal Temple, one of the 108 Divya Desams dedicated to Lord Vishnu. This temple was believed to have been built by the Pallava dynasty in 9^th Century CE.

A sunset from Thirumayam fort Ashwin Rajagopalan

Chettinad remains one of Tamil Nadu’s most engaging destinations with a fascinating blend of cuisine, architecture, temples and organic local experiences. All you need to do is stay curious.