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Magen David Synagogue — an oasis of peace in one of Mumbai’s busiest localities

Although not as spectacular as its Kolkata namesake, the Mumbai version also has its fair share of ornamentation that creates a spectacle

Rangan Datta Published 06.12.22, 03:24 PM
Interiors of Magen David Synagogue, Byculla, Mumbai

Interiors of Magen David Synagogue, Byculla, Mumbai Photos: Rangan Datta

When it comes to Magen David Synagogue, one is reminded of the spectacular synagogue of Kolkata, which is considered as one of the most ornate synagogues of Asia. But unknown to many, Mumbai also houses a Magen David Synagogue. And it predates its Kolkata counterpart by two decades. Although not as spectacular as its Kolkata namesake, the Mumbai version also has its fair share of ornamentation and its lit up interiors create a stunning spectacle.

The Mumbai Jewish scene is dominated by the Bene Israel community. Bene Israel translates to Children of Israel, and they are considered to be descendants of Israel’s lost tribe. They landed on the west coast of India, near present day Mumbai, as a result of a second century CE shipwreck. Later with the help of Cochin Jews, who had settled further down the west coast long before the birth of Christ, they kept their Jewish traditions alive.

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The outer façade of the Magen David Synagogue, Byculla, Mumbai

The outer façade of the Magen David Synagogue, Byculla, Mumbai

As trade and commerce flourished in Mumbai (then Bombay) the Bene Israel community was joined by the Bagdadi Jews. Led by David Sassoon, who arrived in Mumbai (then Bombay) in the 1830s, the Bagdadi Jewish community took control of the trade and commerce of the city, which later went on to become the business centre of the country. After the initial days of arrival, the Bagdadi Jews shared space with the Bene Israel Synagogues, but as the community grew and prospered they needed their own place of worship.

The interiors are charming with bright blue paints and fluorescent lights

The interiors are charming with bright blue paints and fluorescent lights

Under the initiative of David Sassoon, the Bagdadi Jews got their first synagogue in the Byculla area in 1864. Known as the Magen David Synagogue, it was much grander and bigger than the then two existing Bene Israel synagogues. Also the previous synagogues were built in middle-eastern style along with local elements. Magen David was built in European style. Magen David had a steeple housing a clock, something unusual for a synagogue of that time. The synagogue was extended in 1910 with the addition of matching side bays on both sides. The extension was carried out by David Sassoon’s grandson Jacob Sassoon.

The central pavilion is fitted with decorative brass railing. The four corners of the central platform are fitted with brass light stands, each containing four lights covered with spherical shades

The central pavilion is fitted with decorative brass railing. The four corners of the central platform are fitted with brass light stands, each containing four lights covered with spherical shades

Today the synagogue stands in the busy Byculla area of Mumbai and the compound also houses two schools funded by the Jewish trust. In spite of surrounding skyscrapers, the synagogue stands out with its bright blue facade, enormous frontal columns and towering clock tower. The interiors are even more charming with bright blue paints and fluorescent lights. It has a double-height sanctuary with a women’s gallery wrapping around three sides of the upper floor. The central pavilion is fitted with decorative brass railing. The four corners of the central platform are fitted with brass light stands, each containing four lights covered with spherical shades. The ark contains three doors, behind which the torah scrolls are kept. It is definitely an oasis of peace in one of Mumbai’s busiest localities.

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