In a world where Instagram has shrunk most borders and put even the most unexplored spots under the spotlight, it’s almost ironical for us to want to unearth destinations where we don’t run into tourists. That’s probably what led me to the Ninh Thuan province that hugs the South China Sea along Vietnam’s southeast. Air travel is almost the only way to cover distances in quick time within Vietnam. The touch down into Cam Ranh airport offered me a preview of what to expect – a brilliant blend of tropical mountains and the blue ocean.
A peaceful abode
I arrived here after five action-packed days in Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City that mostly involved navigating local markets and sampling street food. My final destination – The Amanoi, my abode in Nin Thuan is one of Vietnam’s most photogenic resorts. Aman resorts take their name from the Sanskrit word for peace, the Amanoi translates into peaceful place. With just about 40 luxury villas spread over a resort with a footprint of 100 acres, this resort lives up to its name. Amanoi is part of a marine reserve; it rubs shoulders with the Nui Chua national park and a fishing village – Vinh Hy.
A sweeping view of Vin Hy village and bay Ashwin Rajagopalan
The views from the Cam Ranh airport to Vin Hy are truly spectacular. I made multiple photo stops along the way; the mix of tropical mountains and cliffs that overlook the South China Sea has to rank among the most scenic drives in South East Asia. The last photo stop that overlooks the Vinh Hy village was the cherry on the icing. I kept going back to this vantage point with sweeping panoramic views of the cliffs and the ocean below. The multi-coloured fishing boats completed the perfect picture.
Get away from it all
An ocean-facing deck at Amanoi Ashwin Rajagopalan
While it’s tempting to spend a whole day at your private pool deck, the resort has multiple distractions on site. The first, a choice of dining venues including an ocean-facing deck where local Vietnamese cuisine shines. My favourite dining experience was watching the staff craft a refreshing glass of ice-cold Vietnamese coffee. Coffee is brewed drip-style (akin to south Indian filter coffee), blended with condensed milk and then stirred with countless ice cubes. Then there’s a spa which is a refuge in itself with its own water body. Yoga sessions are a frequent fixture, but most guests would rather lounge in a private room. Not all activities involve doing nothing. I spent an afternoon sailing and then plunged into the ocean with my snorkelling gear.
Sailing in the Vinh Hy bay Ashwin Rajagopalan
I wasn't content with the distant views of Vinh Hy fishing village. I spent an entire evening at village watching fresh catch of the day being carted off to nearby hotels and restaurants. The visit finished at the local chieftain’s house, a retired medical professional who once served in the Vietnam war.
Panduranga trails
The Po Klong Garai Temple, a 13th-century Hindu temple complex, in Phan Rang Ashwin Rajagopalan
Phan Rang city is the hub of the Nin Thuan province that is steeped in history. Phan Rang was once the ancient city of Panduranga, the capital of the Hindu-Buddhist Champa. The area is home to the Po Klong Garai Temple, a 13th-century Hindu temple complex. A dancing Shiva with six arms is one of the highlights of this temple. The area is one of key settlements of the Cham people, one of Vietnam’s ethnic minorities who follow both Hinduism and Islam.
Street food haven
No fancy restaurants here, just tiny food stalls that serve authentic local delicacies Ashwin Rajagopalan
Street food and Vietnam are inseparable, Phan Rang city near Amanoi is a paradise for adventurous foodies (who isn’t these days?) No fancy restaurants here, just tiny food stalls that serve authentic local delicacies. You have to be willing to roll up your sleeves and learn to squat like a local on those ubiquitous blue stools though. I enjoyed every minute of my three-hour food trail that also included a stop at a local night market where I hardly ran into any international tourists.
Bánh xèo Shutterstock
The highlight – Bánh xèo, that translates into sizzling cake. This sizzling pancake is made with rice flour, water and topped with squid or shrimp, slivers of sliced pork and spices. Scrumptious. There was more cake in store at my second stop. I checked out bánh bèo (water fern cake), a steamed rice pancake with a tiny depression in the centre is stuffed with savoury ingredients (like dried shrimp, scallions and fish sauce) and almost sticks to your teeth.
Nin Thuan province is truly one of Vietnam’s most scenic pockets, far removed its high-energy cities and busy tourist hubs. And yes, the drive back to the Cam Ranh airport at sunrise was just as beautiful.
