A walk along the stretch from Golpark to Gariahat takes you to the boi para of south Kolkata. On the left, just beside the flyover, hidden behind kiosks overladen with clothes and other merchandise, is a hidden book-lovers’ utopia — makeshift stalls that sell pre-owned or second-hand books.
For a few decades now, these bookstalls have been catering to the city’s many bookworms, and many are run by second-generation owners. Any topic you can think of, finds a place in these stalls stacked with nostalgia.
Fiction and non-fiction that cover a range of topics from world and Indian history to sports, wildlife, art and cooking are arranged in piles. Dictionaries from different eras share space with comics and graphic novels. Almost any book you can think of, be it a classic edition or a recent bestseller, chances are you will find what you’re looking for in these treasure troves.
Treasure hunting for literature
Shaded by blue tarpaulins, the high columns of tomes lean against each other, often almost spilling over their rack space. The pavement in front of the stalls is narrow, and buyers — most of whom are looking up scanning the titles — often fall over each other in trying to point out or pick up their selections.
One of the unique finds in these stalls are Bengali magazines from different eras
At the end of every day by about 8pm, the book sellers cover their precious collections, tying the blue tarpaulin over them, until the next morning around 11am when the sheet is unfurled and tied overhead as a shade. Most of the stalls operate every day of the week including Sundays when most of Gariahat market is closed.
One of the main attractions of this place is the huge collection of Bengali magazines from different time periods. Don’t be surprised if you find a magazine which has a story written by Sukumar Roy or Saradindu Bandopadhyay. Names of titles and publications you may or may not have heard of — Aparajita, Nobokollol, Chitrabani, Sandesh, Shuktara, Ultoroth, Cholochinta — can usually be found in these stalls.
Simple, pocket-friendly pleasures
The best part about shopping for pre-loved books is that even a huge haul won’t pinch your pocket, and bargaining is always allowed. The freewheeling conversations with the sellers is another bonus. The place is so crammed with books that browsing through the stalls to select your favourites might take up the day but it will also be an interesting and pocket-friendly experience.
A day spent browsing the high stacks of books is all about simple and budget-friendly pleasures
The stall owners may not be highly educated, but ask them about any of the writers and you will get an informative, poised response. If they don’t have a title you’re looking for or are unable to source it for you, they will always help you with information on how to get them.
If you are a bookworm with a quench for the oldies and besties of the literary world, then this is the place for you. You can grab a bhnar of cha from one of the nearby tea stalls in between browsing for timeless reads.
A simple yet heartfelt part of the experience of shopping for and reading pre-loved books is that you are often likely to unfold a special dedication, quote or even doodle that will also tell another story.
Current favourites and surprise gems
One of the veteran sellers, Nirmal Mondal, remembers when there were only seven or eight such stalls in that stretch. Now, the number of stalls have gone up, but with the habit of reading and love for physical books dwindling, the footfall has dropped.
Nirmal Mondal has been running his book stall since the time there were only a handful of them on this stretch
Change has come in other ways too. While earlier there was a huge demand for classic literary books, now people are more interested in comic books, especially Indian ones. Comics that are not readily available now like Vikram-Betal,the Indrajal comics, Nagraj to name a few, are the most sought after. Mrinal Kanti Mondal, another seller ,is known to stock Bengali books that are not published any longer, and a collection of age-old magazines.
The sellers get their selection mainly from people who come here to sell their books, and will also often pick them up from the person’s home. Books come from various places including the homes of well-known names in Kolkata. Nirmal Mondal mentions that he works with the grandson of Jamini Roy, Debabrata Roy.
If you are lucky, you might land a book with an autograph or a note penned by someone famous.