A magical reality

German-style Christmas markets have sprung up in various parts of the world. However, the original stuff is still in Germany and, now that I live here, I am experiencing these famous weihnachtsmarkt (as they are called in German) for the first time. If I had to describe them in one word, I would say they are ‘magical’.

Growing up in India, I read about spiced hot chocolate, warm berry punch and candied almonds in Enid Blyton books, but then, such delights remained as a figment of an Indian girl’s imagination. Well, let me tell you more so you too can relive your childhood fantasies yourself and get inspired for your next Christmas vacation here.

Yuletide season begins early in Germany, usually from November 21, which is when the Advent period commences. Every city and town has a central weinachtsmarkt and maybe several smaller ones too. Each one usually has a unique theme, decor style and children’s attraction. The food stalls also vary based on the regional specialities.

The Rathausmarkt or town hall market in central Hamburg is a dreamy wonderland. Imagine yourself walking down a cobblestone alley, with twinkling warm lights strung everywhere. Little wooden huts line the path, each one beautifully decorated. You stop at a small little hut selling local handmade goods before moving on to the next stall where you stop for some warm roasted chestnuts and then stumble upon the gingerbread cookies stand and pick up customised name cookies for your kids. As you stroll along, a trio-band playing Christmas carols serenades you. Just then, you glance up and catch sight of the town hall, with its majestic Christmas tree lit before you.

The heady waft of cinnamon, star anise and warm brandy lead me to the popular gluhwein (German mulled wine) hut where large characteristic pots are bubbling away.

Funnily, they remind me of the wicked witch’s cooking pot in the German fable Hansel and Gretel.

The word gluhwein is literally translated to ‘glow wine’, which refers to the red-hot irons used to heat up the wine as they did in the medieval times. Red wine is heated in large brass pots with cinnamon, cloves and star anise combined with some brandy or rum, orange and other variable elements. I was told that this stall is always the first stop as sipping on some warm gluhwein warms up the body to enjoy the rest of the market activities in the freezing temperature.I love how kids are given equal attention here as the same stall serves kinderpusch, a non-alcoholic spiced blend of berry and apple juice which had my kids asking for more. Alternatively, a German hot chocolate with vanilla or cinnamon is equally tempting. One of my favourites is the spiked hot chocolate with a choice of rum, brandy or Bailey’s. Pure indulgence!

If you fancy something more potent, try the famous Feuerzangenbowle. A dramatic drink where steaming rum is poured over a large sugar crystal which then melts into the red wine and fuses the flavours together.

Behind the incredible display of food, toys and artisanal creations are cheery spirited men and women in traditional costumes. Tuck into some bratwurst (grilled sausages) sandwiched in bread, topped with mustard and pickles. My top pick is the Swiss raclette where a huge block of mature Swiss cheese is flambéed and the melted top layer scraped off onto some crusty bread with toppings of your choice. Such a delightful sensory experience. Of course, you can well imagine the pleasure of that complemented with the mulled wine in a temperature of minus two!

These Christmas markets are a great place to stock up on unique gifts — from ceramic pottery and handmade wooden toys and puppets to natural organic honey and preserves, scented candles and so much more. The cacophony of excited children (including my own) on the charming musical carousel adds to the vibrant buzz all around.

This market’s highlight is a visit from Santa’s ‘flying’ sleigh at scheduled timings. A fun little show executed with elaborate fanfare. The Christmas parade every Saturday during the Advent weeks is another spectacular display of the festive spirit. Illuminated floats with Christmas characters — from reindeers and angels to Santa and his elves dance by while the people around are showered with artificial snow.

What an enchanting atmosphere and I literally am enchanted! And by now, I think you too are lost in the markets of beautiful Germany. Frohe weihnachten! Merry Christmas!

Calcutta girl Natasha Celmi is a chef, food writer and food stylist. You can find her @natashacelmi on Instagram, on her YouTube channel Natasha Celmi and at www.natashacelmi.com

The Feuerzangenbowle drink of hot rum poured into red wine over a sugar crystal

Yuletide season begins early in Germany, usually from November 21, which is when the Advent period commences. Every city and town has a central weinachtsmarkt and maybe several smaller ones too