Some acts of kindness stay with us forever. As I walked through the halls of Don Bosco School Park Circus, Kolkata, during my last visit here, I was reminded of one of the Salesian Fathers who left a lasting impression on a whole generation of students in Don Bosco Egmore, Chennai. One of my schoolmates arrived late on the day of our annual school picnic after the school bus had already left school. Father Joseph Commandu had other plans for this student. He raced against time on his scooter with his blue bandana fluttering in the wind and this ‘late comer’ in tow. He caught up with the school bus and deposited the latecomer with the rest of his class during an age when smartphones and location tracking were not a thing.
The Salesian Preventive System
(Left) a monument to Don Bosco, with the Basilica of Maria Ausiliatrice in the background, in Turin; (right) the author at the Basilica of Don Bosco Shutterstock; Ashwin Rajagopalan
Don Bosco Park Circus in Kolkata and Don Bosco Egmore in Chennai were both founded in 1958. If there’s one thing many of the alumni like myself remember fondly, it’s the selfless deeds and guidance of Salesian Fathers like Fr Commandu who embodied the spirit of Saint Don Bosco. When Saint John Bosco (popularly known as Don Bosco) pioneered the system of ‘The Salesian Preventive System’ in the 19th century based on the three pillars of reason, religion and lovingkindness, it was a refreshing contrast to the repressive style of ‘school punishment’ education. Saint John Bosco’s journey began near Turin (or Torino) more than two centuries ago. I made my travel resolution to visit this charming city (that preceded Rome as modern Italy’s first capital) while I was still in junior school.
Beyond overtourism
Turin has escaped the excesses of overtourism — thus far Shutterstock
Overtourism has become a raging issue across Europe, Florence in Italy became the latest destination to announce a 10-point plan to address the challenges of overtourism in November 2024. Turin is about 90 minutes from Milan, Italy’s fashion and business capital, but has escaped the excesses of overtourism; thus far. It was the Americans who probably etched destinations like Florence, Pisa, Venice and Rome in recent popular culture and soon the Chinese and Indians followed. Turin is a contrast; most locals don’t speak English and except for a few popular hotspots, I spotted more stylish portfolio bags than tourist backpacks.
Castelnuovo Don Bosco
At the Basilica of Our Lady Help of Christians Ashwin Rajagopalan
I headed straight from the Torino Porta Nuova Railway Station to what was once Castelnuovo d’Asti, a commune located within the Piedmont region (Famous for its white truffles and one of my favourite wines — Barolo). This area was renamed Castelnuovo Don Bosco in honour of Saint Don Bosco. His birthplace (the hamlet of Becchi) is now home to the imposing Basilica of Don Bosco and a small museum (in the house that he was born) that commemorates his life and times. From the rolling hills of the Piedmont countryside, my journey took me back to the Basilica of Our Lady Help of Christians in the heart of Turin. This building was part of a safehouse for poor boys set up by Don Bosco and is now a Minor Basilica that houses the remains of Don Bosco and about 6,000 relics of other Catholic Saints.
Stunning panoramas
The Turin panorama Ashwin Rajagopalan
There’s no better spot for panoramic views of Turin than Mount of the Capuchins. You can see the river Po flow along the city and the Alps in the distance. The Mole Antonelliana, arguably the city’s best known landmark looms over the city and is also a great place for panoramic views from about 85 metres (you are transported to the top in a panoramic lift). You can see some of the city’s best known attractions like the Gran Madre, Monte dei Cappuccini, Piazza Vittorio and Piazza Castello. Getting around the city is a breeze thanks to an extensive bus and tram network but I explored most of the city on foot in my limited time here. The Mole Antonelliana is also home to the National Cinema Museum. Turin is a museum lover’s paradise. It’s also the centre of Italy’s automotive heritage. The National Car Museum in Turin houses over 200 cars but if you have time for just one museum in Turin, it ought to be Museo Egizio.
A treasure trove
Inside the Museo Egizio Basilica Ashwin Rajagopalan
It’s the world’s oldest museum devoted entirely to ancient Egyptian culture and it just turned 200 this year. The Museo Egizio Basilica or Egyptian Museum has benefitted from a major overhaul in 2015. It’s a treasure trove of anthropomorphic coffins, animal mummies and artefacts from ancient Egypt. It’s widely considered the most significant Egyptian Museum outside Cairo and houses the statue of Ramses II, 500 funerary and domestic items from the tomb of royal architect Kha and his wife Merit that date back to 1400 BC. It is spread over 4km and extends for over 2km if you follow the entire museum path that is bound to fascinate even newbies to ancient Egyptian history and culture.
A scrumptious Piedmont-style Torte di Nocciole (hazelnut cake) Ashwin Rajagopalan
It might have been the trail of Don Bosco that took me to Turin from the corridors of my school in Chennai. It made me discover a city that is steeped in history and shaped by its grand Baroque architecture. As I polished off a scrumptious Piedmont-style Torte di Nocciole (Hazelnut cake) before heading to Rome, I realised I barely scratched the surface in one of Europe’s most charming cities. I can’t wait to get back here before it gets overrun by tourists like myself.