Neslted within the Tukvar or more commonly referred to as Puttabong Tea Estate is a beautiful old ‘bara kothi’, a beautiful bungalow that was set rolling by Dr Archibald Campbell, a British national who visited the region in the 1840s and began toying with the idea of creating one of the first commercial tea gardens of the region. Managed and run by AMA Stays and Trails, The Puttabong Cottage is a reminder of the grandeur and opulence of colonial luxury. It used to be the superintendent bungalow for a really long time before it was converted into a luxe stay for big groups that want to explore Darjeeling and its surrounding hills, but without the hustle and bustle of popular commercial areas in the town.
The tea estate is one of the largest in the region as well and is home to a wide variety of flora and fauna. “The idea behind converting the ‘Burra Bungalow’ into a homestay is to extend the tea experience and witness the life of a planter. Living amidst tea bushes, waking up to the Kanchenjunga, hiking tea trails and picnics in the outdoors, experiencing tea for the mind and soul, this was the vision behind the cottage,” said Jayashree Mohta, chairperson, Jay Shree Tea & Industries Ltd., the tea brand behind the estate. The property is managed by AMA Stays and Trails of The Indian Hotels Company Limited.
On a rainy monsoon week, we checked into this property for what went on to become the ultimate hill station unwinding.
Where: 37M5+F26, Tukvar Tea Garden, Darjeeling, West Bengal
How to book: Log on to: https://www.amastaysandtrails.com/en-in/puttabong-cottage-darjeeling
Best time to visit: October to May
Accomodation: 12 adults plus kids
The property has six fully furnished rooms that have been done up in quintessential colonial pattern with huge poster beds and wooden tables and chairs. The three big rooms have a fireplace as well that can be used during the cold months. A signature massive crystal chandelier arrests your attention the moment you walk into the room. The colour scheme is white with wood for contrast. Three of the big rooms open out to a patio garden with enchanting views of the hills and tea gardens in front as well as Mt. Kanchenjunga on a clear day!
As you walk into the bungalow, you can be seated at the formal living space that’s once again done up in signature shades of white. The milky white couches are contrasted with neutral throws and coloured cushions. A stone fireplace adds old-world charm to the space. It’s a great place to unwind and chill with your fam or friends, whoever you choose to travel with. The space has two such living areas, along with an evening deck space where you can enjoy some evening snacks while watching the sunset and lush tea gardens around.
The patio garden overlooking the tea estate is a great place to party, chill or have a barbecue night as well. We went for an evening barbecue with an assortment of vegetarian as well as non-vegetarian items. That apart it has numerous seating arrangements where you can just choose to sit and savour your cuppa and the view. You can also have breakfast by the lawns.
The dining area has a 14-seater solid wood table that exudes royal vibes and is fit for a feast. It overlooks the front side of the bungalow. For meals guests have the option to pre-decide their menu, or can state their meal preferences to the chef on a daily basis. Indian, Thai, local Himalayan food, Chinese and Continental are some of the cuisines that the chef is well-versed with. That apart, there’s a small coffee nook with a coffee machine and some cookies to guarantee you your cup of pick-me-up anytime you want. We definitely suggest trying some of the local delicacies as well.
THE TEA EXPERIENCE
For tea enthusiasts a great experience would be a visit to the Tukvar (Puttabong) Tea factory where designated officials escort you from the bungalow to the factory next door for a walk through of the space, explaining the different stages of organic tea production. Major part of the process takes place in the wee hours of the morning. Most of the machinery in th factory date back to colonial times when the first bushes were laid down in Puttabong and have been upgraded since then, but have retained their initial frame and structure.
The visit to the factory also includes a tea tasting where you sample a variety of tea depending on the season. We tried the green tea, the first flush (a light and fresh sip), the second flush (a darker, well-bodied blend) and the autumn blend. The first flush was our fave.
An activity that we won’t forget was witnessing the night plucking where women plucked tea amidst fire torches while dressed in traditional attire and sang folk songs. Another memorable experience was watching a swarm of fireflies, which of course the camera could not capture.
DELICACIES WE LOVED
Thukpa
Nepali Chicken Curry
Aloo Gundure