Rich, luxurious, teasing your senses and almost playing with them. The Estée Lauder x Sabyasachi limited-edition lipstick collection is much like your deep desires. Intriguing and utterly pleasurable. Many years in the making and months of anticipation later, Calcutta’s own Sabyasachi Mukherjee, ‘Sabya’ to the world, has unveiled the collection of 10 satin matte and ultra matte lipsticks. They come encased in gilded cases with 24K gold-plated accents. There is the roar and the prowl of the Bengal Tiger of course, synonymous with Brand Sabyasachi, perhaps symbolising the innate feistiness of those who wear him, making them stand apart, lending them an impregnable strength of character that’s both powerfully mysterious and very hot.
In a chat with t2, Sabyasachi rewinds in time to the making of the collection and reiterates his mission for his brand.
We are beyond excited at the news of a Sabyasachi Mukherjee lipstick line. What can we expect?
It’s a coming together of Estée Lauder and Sabyasachi. New York and Calcutta become almost symbolic of the two. When I went through the Estée Lauder archives, I was inspired. Not just by the level of detailing in their historic creations that reminded me of my approach to jewellery, but of Mrs Lauder’s story and spirit. Strong women have always been my greatest inspiration.
So, you can expect a luxurious and sensual collection of lipsticks that celebrate classic colours — where there is something for everyone.
What was the exchange of ideas with Estee Lauder like?
It’s been four years in the making. I’m very proud of being Indian, and completely refute the notion that world-class products cannot come out of India. When I was speaking to Estée Lauder, I was clear with them that when we build a lipstick, we want the best in the world. Estée Lauder were also very clear that they wanted to create something that had an Indian ethos but with a global soul. I think I must have driven everybody up the wall trying to get the right amount of brown or yellow pigment in a red to make that red just right. Even with the fragrance, we spent months deciding between rose and cinnamon. But cinnamon was the clear winner, with it being so symbolic of India’s history with spice and being such an unobtrusive smell. Then came the formulations and the packaging and so on. It takes years to build something that can become a classic. It’s been a truly collaborative process and a joy making this collection come alive.
I met the Estée Lauder team in 2019 and we started working on the collaboration almost instantly. I told them that India is going to become a very important market for beauty. This was before the big explosion of global brand ambassadors from India. We understood the power of India, what it represents and what India could represent for the rest of the world, and we wanted a collaboration that captured the opportunity.
For Estée Lauder it was about tapping into the power of India, for me it was about representing India the right way, both at home and away. The idea was to create something in beauty that would give our customers a sense of pride and to remind them that beautiful things don’t have to be transient. I was sure that I would create a range of classics that are clearly anti-trend and seasonless. Products that are not time-bound, that you can keep using. It’s been an honour collaborating with the global beauty behemoth that is Estée Lauder. Hopefully, this is going to be the first step towards bigger forays into beauty, but there’s definitely no turning back from here.
How have you curated the range, keeping diversity in mind? You also have names for each, just like for your other collections. How did you arrive at the names?
My brief was simple, cut through frills and trends, and create what is classic. My own brand is based in culture, heritage and in creating products that stand the test of time. And, I think as an Indian designer diversity is integral to our design proposition. India is pluralistic in every way — shape, form and colour. When you celebrate India, you celebrate diversity.
I set out to create 10 lip colours that would cover every kind of classic beauty need. I’ve been a colourist for over 20 years now. The city I live in, the various processes of dyeing textiles, the selection of gemstones as a jeweller and the women I’m most influenced by have all played a part in making this collection. So, Rekha’s berry pout can be glimpsed in Bombay Berry, Frida Kahlo in Pomelo Rose and the spirit of Calcutta in Calcutta Red. Completely diverse personalities, but 10 definitive colours. With these shades, the mission was to attain a certain universality through iconic colours.
How would you define a good red lipstick?
I think we may have spent the longest time finding the perfect red. There are two in the collection. But I think my hunt for the perfect red began long before, over the many hours and years and decades I have spent with my dyers experimenting with reds for our saris and lehngas. And, then in the intensity of reds in Burmese rubies that you find in Sabyasachi Jewellery.
Calcutta Red and Rouge Bengal, both reflect the deep rich vitality of the colour in their own way. Each signature to Sabyasachi — iconic, versatile, and wearable.
What power does a red lipstick hold?
I spotted an old client of mine at the breakfast room at the Claridges, some ages ago. She was wearing a velvet turban and a deep red lip, having her coffee and croissant. She was on her own, so I said hello. She smiled and told me that she was going through a separation. The moment was bittersweet. But I realised that the red lipstick was her armour.
What do you tell your brides about make-up?
I tell all my brides just one thing, as cliched as it might sound — to do what makes you feel great and do what makes you happy; it’s your day after all.
You have a thing for nude lips! What’s attractive about subtlety to you?
Muslin Tea, Apricot Silk and Pomelo Rose are all shades of nude, in this collection. We love our kajal in India, and I think the dark eyes with the nude mouth is a classic Indian beauty look. There’s a reason classics are classics, they have the power of timeless appeal.
We are in an age of information explosion where a lot of myths are being shattered, including standard notions of beauty. What has beauty always meant to you? What does make-up mean to you personally?
In an era of self-expression, reinvention, and influence, beauty is complex. I was born a middle-class boy in India, far away from the world of glamour and beauty — I had no money to access a lot of things as a teenager. So very early on you realise the power of value and that what you buy should mean something, so my appreciation for value remains. It’s why I cannot fall into the pitfalls of hype and trend, it’s the classic and iconic that I strive towards. For me, beauty is really about identity. About knowing who you are and celebrating that.
What’s in store…
Muslin Tea: A satin-matte caramel nude
Apricot Silk: A satin-matte rosy, mauve nude
Pomelo Rose: A satin-matte deep rosy nude
Udaipur Coral: A satin-matte burnt coral
Rouge Bengal: A satin-matte warm red
Devi Pink: A satin-matte fuchsia
Calcutta Red: An ultra-matte blue-red
Bombay Berry: An ultra-matte deep berry
Coffee Masala: An ultra-matte warm brown
Tropical Tangerine: An ultra-matte terracotta
Price: Each lipstick in the Estée Lauder x Sabyasachi Collection is sold separately and retails for Rs 5,400
Where to buy it from: Available to purchase at select Estée Lauder counters and Esteelauder.in, beginning March 4
A Sabyasachi Mukherjee piece is a prized possession. And with make-up, you will probably be in every home with it serving a great entry point to the brand. This does seem like a dream come true for all of us. What direction do you see the brand taking in the next five years?
I love the fact that this collaboration helps me reach a wider audience. It’s why in the past I have chosen to collaborate with brands like H&M and now Estée Lauder.
My mission for my brand remains the same, to preserve and celebrate the finest of Indian craftsmanship and create India’s first global luxury brand.
Dikshita Shukla, retail and commercial director, Estée Lauder Companies
Quick two with Dikshita Shukla, retail and commercial director, Estée Lauder Companies
Do you have a favourite shade?
I absolutely love all the shades. If I were to choose favourites, it would undoubtedly be Calcutta Red, which is iconic. My other favourite is Devi Pink, which is stunning. Each shade in the collection holds its own special appeal, making it such a challenge to pick just one.
What else do you see the brand do to champion diversity?
Estee Lauder’s commitment to diversity runs deep within the brand’s DNA, evident in our continuous efforts to champion inclusivity. A testament to this is the collaboration with Sabyasachi, where the 10 lipsticks were created to specifically suit a diverse plethora of Indian skin tones, ensuring that every woman finds her perfect shade.
This philosophy continues in the impactful campaigns we create for our hero products. Our recently concluded ‘My Shade My Story’ campaign for our Double Wear Foundation being one such example. The campaign, centred around our extensive foundation range of over 50+ shades to match every skin tone, embraces diversity at its core, by showcasing that every shade has a story to tell, a story which is as unique to you as your very own shade.
Estee Lauder sets a precedent for inclusivity in beauty, a commitment that will continue to shape future campaigns and initiatives.