Founded in 1977 by Sagrika Rai, Mumbai-based fashion brand Warp ’n Weft seamlessly binds the rich tapestry of Indian heirlooms, integrating the old and the new-age designs, with the distinct artistry of Benaras. Deeply rooted in Indian traditions and its commitment to preserving our heritage, cultural versatility, and sustainable craftsmanship, the brand, marked by its artistic pursuits that boast GI tags, is now in the safe hands of Gaurika Rai, the 27-year-old daughter of Sagrika and current CEO of the brand. Warp ’n Weft recently curated a unique showcase titled ‘Kinetic’ — a kaleidoscope of innovation in textiles couture — at Mumbai’s IFBE and handheld visitors through the stories of our age-old textiles.
A classic gilded zari brocade accompanied by a contemporary fluid silken brocade. Turning the pages of history, the Khinkhawab brocades in thicker silk or satins stand testament to the Persian artistry that flourished in India as a result of cross-border invasions and migrations
In a chat with t2, Gaurika spoke about what it takes to stay away from floating trends in the 21st century and hold on to the timeless craft of Benaras, weave threads of love bringing together the modern elements with a dollop of tradition, how the brand manages to be a beacon of authenticity from the past, and how it feels to hold the reigns of the company at such a young age. Excerpts.
Warp ’n Weft is synonymous with a myriad of traditional weaves. As a brand, have you never felt the urge to follow current trends?
At Warp ’n Weft, trends take a backseat. We want to offer our patrons a heirloom. Every piece that we generate here can be passed down to generations. The threads are meticulously woven and the pieces are crafted to reflect the great Indian heritage and are an artisanal luxury. We have had the privilege of representing handloom art at the Indian embassies in Rome, Italy and Copenhagen.
What was on your mind when you conceptualised Kinetic?
My mother has been doing a phenomenal job in this sphere for a while now. We thought we should have a showcase solely based on that. Kinetic was a sensory tapestry of sorts. The life and soul of the event were nine textiles that remained the cornerstone of the classic design and intricacy of Benarasi weaving art. The theme was heavily hinged on decoding and profound exploration of the ancient art of handloom textiles, and needless to say, India’s cultural legacy.
Could you tell us about the nine stories that were on display?
There were 18 saris in total on display. The nine stories were an immersive experience where we showed our guests old as well as new-age designs that must be in any culturally conscious woman’s wedding trousseau. Women across generations can wear them. It was a guided tour where visitors were split into small batches and taken across the exhibition centre. This was our inaugural showcase and we want to do it every year now. Through this, we have adapted to today’s day and age. We have implemented a contemporary twist to the old designs, thereby catering to both generations and their varied tastes. We have not lost sight of the fact that many of today’s women are engulfed by the aura of minimalism. Our showcase featured aada, brocade, butis, jungla, gyasar, jamdani, rangkat, minakari and shikargah. Through this exhibition, we have explained a bit of the history and techniques of each of these fabrics.
Gaurika Rai
How does it feel to shoulder such a huge responsibility at this young age?
I am very happy to take responsibility as and when they come. As someone who’s only 27, I think I’ve had this realisation that it’s very easy in today’s day and age to network and find the right people. If you have the right resources and the right people around you, it becomes a lot easier. One of the cons of running a family business would be the weight it comes with. There is a lot of expectation from you to carry the legacy forward efficiently.
Debanjoli Nandi
Pictures courtesy: The brand