When Saif Ali Khan rocked the dhuti-panjabi look for Diwali, it was someone from the land of Tagore who helped the Bangali babu behind the Chhote Nawab step forward. It all began with a call that Santiniketan-based designer Abhisek Roy received during Durga Puja. The man and his label, Bohurupi, have the likes of Swastika Mukherjee, Jaya Ahsan, Mimi Chakraborty, Sandipta Sen and Dev on the list of clients.
In an engaging conversation with My Kolkata, he chatted about designing for Saif Ali Khan, the delightful encounter with the actor’s two adorable kids, Taimur and Jeh, and more. Read on…
My Kolkata: How did the opportunity to dress Saif Ali Khan come about?
Abhisek Roy: It unfolded during the Durga Puja. His stylist reached out to me and after a brief five-minute chat, Saif (Ali Khan) called within the next five minutes. So, the entire process transpired in just 10-15 minutes (laughs). We devised a plan, I headed to Bombay (Mumbai), conducted the trials, and fortunately, he instantly approved. That’s the key takeaway – he liked it from the very first moment.
What was the fashion collaboration about?
Fashion designer Abhisek Roy at Bohurupi Santiniketan
Primarily intended for Diwali and catering to his personal wardrobe, there are additional outfits in store for him. It’s not limited to just him, his two kids, Taimur and Jeh, were also part of the fashion collaboration.
Was there a collaborative exchange of artistic ideas or a brainstorming session to determine the style of clothing he desired?
He expressed a preference for an old-school and classic look, drawing inspiration from Satyajit Ray’s films. That revelation triggered a creative spark, prompting me to delve into the world of old-school aesthetics, coincidentally, my personal favourite genre of design — traditional and ethnic. The meticulous sabudana work detailing on the neckline reflected these nuances in his outfit. I believe this attention to detail contributed to his immediate fondness for the ensemble. Surprisingly, the first trial exceeded expectations, and the moment he wore it, he exclaimed, ‘I love it, I will wear this’.
What did the research process entail?
I delved into old movies, photographs and paintings to explore the intricacies of traditional designs from bygone eras. The focus was on capturing the subtle details that may not be grand in scale but are rich in delicate craftsmanship.
When discussing your affinity for the old-school and things you appreciate, is there a particular film or artwork that holds a special place in your heart?
It is difficult to name one, because there are many classic films such as Jalsaghar or Nayak, along with other works featuring Uttam Kumar and Satyajit Ray. Even beyond that era, movies with an old-world charm and intricate detailing resonate with me. Growing up in Santiniketan, where art was integral to my education, I was surrounded by this creative atmosphere from an early age. My grandfather, Sukhen Ganguly, was an artist, and his creations hold a special significance for me. I particularly admire his work, considering he was the first artist to create murals for the Kolkata Metro.
What is the fabric and detailing of the ethnic wear? Are they all handwoven?
Silk, handwoven muslin and jamdani — and hand embroidery.
How long did it take to get the sets made?
It was done in 10 days.
Who designed the outfits?
I did.
Apparels displayed at Bohurupi Santiniketan
How would you describe the overall experience?
On the very first encounter, he exuded such ease and comfort that there was no discernible sense of working with a star. He effortlessly created a comfortable environment, making the collaborative process much smoother for me. Expressing a desire to explore his mother’s (Sharmila Tagore) aesthetic sensibilities and classic styles, he conveyed a personal affinity for these elements. When I told him I was a very big fan of his mother, he said, ‘I am not surprised’ (laughs).
Is there any other celebrity collaboration brewing?
Right now, no. But hopefully something will happen. Coincidentally, when I was doing Saif’s trails, the first Bollywood movie in which I styled — Shastry VS Shastry — got released. There, I styled Paresh Rawal and Neena Kulkarni. So, both happened parallelly. I think that was a calling.
Abhisek Roy-approved fashion pointers for the ongoing wedding season would be…
Whatever you wear, it should reflect who you are. That is the most important thing — be it festive or a non-festive season. Embrace classic, be colourful and be you — that’s a more important part in fashion. And, the festivity and happiness should reflect in what you are wearing.
And, when it comes to the current fashion scene, particularly for the wedding season, if you had to pick three trends that are in and three that are out?
For weddings, particularly as I primarily work with grooms, opt for traditional ensembles with a touch of fusion. Timeless and classic colours are always a safe bet. Remember, it’s your day — the wedding day — so choose something that resonates with your personal style. As for the don’ts, I’d advise against overly experimenting with your wedding look. Give your best effort for the wedding day, as those memories are meant to last a lifetime.
Abhisek Roy at the verandah of his store Bohurupi Santiniketan on an autumn noon
