Calcutta-based textile designer Sujata Sarawgi has launched her winter collection, which she says should represent women of age 35 and above. On the sidelines of a fun shoot with her muses Oiendrila Ray Kapur and Anita Kanoi, t2 chatted with the designer at her picture-perfect studio space in Ballygunge about all things changing the perspective on winter fashion. Excerpts.
Tell us about your winter collection.
I have based this collection on silk. I think katan and tussore silks lend beautifully to the colour scheme of the season. And these fabrics are easy to dye. Keeping in mind the season, I have incorporated plum, wine, turquoise blue, teal, indigo, rust, orange and red, to mention a few. My collections are all handmade. They pass through multiple artisans. Our stoles are in katan, tussore and silk wool. Every piece is handmade in our factories across Bengal. It starts from Rs 1,800 for a linen stole. And the price goes up to Rs 10,800.
Oiendrila looks stunning in this luminous green tussore sari with a multi-coloured pallu and abstract print with kilim work running all over the body of the sari. “Sujata has great aesthetics and her work with the women of rural Bengal is inspiring. I am a supporter of slow fashion and restoring lost craft. Sujata has been able to do that beautifully through this collection. I had a really fun afternoon with t2 and Sujata. I was super excited that I could be the muse for her beautiful collection,” Oiendrila said
You have a fascination for geometrical patterns and it’s quite apparent.
Oh, yes. They are my all-time favourites and, in this collection, I have paired them with kilim patterns. We have also done some kantha work and we have contemporised the whole thing so that they get picked up by the young generation too. I feel young girls do not want to wear folk art anymore. I wanted to make my offerings relatable and interesting to all age groups. My aim is to make sure what one buys from my brand is sustainable and at the same time relevant to today’s generation. I come from a Jain background. So that also contributes to my belief system that steers clear of figures and animals in outfits.
As a brand, how do you maintain your visibility?
We participate in store pop-ups and craft council shows in Bengal, Delhi, Chennai and Coimbatore. We have received a huge response so far. We are a slow brand with organic growth for over two decades now, without ever looking for too much publicity like many other brands do.
We couldn’t take our eyes off Oiendrila’s multi-coloured purple stole featuring geometrical and abstract motifs
We have done a lot of export for people and even indirect orders for brands. When it is a big brand, the overheads are higher. We try and keep the price friendly for my patrons. And by God’s grace, it’s through word of mouth my brand is about to reach an important milestone of completing 30 years in a few years. Currently, I am working with around 150 artisans in Bengal. It is a great satisfaction for me. I don’t see any better way of doing it.
What made you come up with a collection for a certain age bracket?
Anita is carefree in this vibrant orange tussore sari accentuated by geometrical abstract kilim work. Speaking to t2, she said: “Sujata maintains a very contemporary style which complements all personalities without being overbearing. I have been a fan of her printing technique for a long time. Her genuine support to printers goes a long way.”
I feel silk is a mystical fabric and these colours stand out in winter. The colours are in keeping with the season. Besides, I’m looking at the demography of the 35 to 60 age bracket. They are people who are very discerning buyers. I feel when you reach a certain age, you want less. You do not look at fast fashion. That’s what the younger generation does. Once you reach the age 35, you will buy something and use it for at least 10-12 years and then hand it down to your future generation. You want fewer things but quality things.
Sujata Sarawgi
What do you think about your muses Oiendrila and Anita?
Both are lovely, lively people. And both are enterprising entrepreneurs. I believe they would be the best faces to be part of my entrepreneurial journey this winter. As for the attires they have worn today, these colours reflect on their character and personality. The vibrancy shows who they truly are.
What: Winter Collection at Sujata’s Weaves and Prints
Where: 42 Ironside Road, Flat 9B, Ballygunge
When: January 16-17
Timings: 11am to 7pm Contact: (+91) 9831604270