While the bigger names took a break for fall/winter 2022, London still had a fair showcase of strength as it played to the stands on its strong point of always paving way for emerging talent. Relaxed silhouettes ruled the rooster with occasional party-wear. Sensual, relaxed fits seemed to mirror most of her outlook at life at the moment as we emerge from the pandemic, jaded. South Asian talent shone bright with designs that fit in seamlessly. Snapshots:
Ahluwalia
The designer fused her heritage into her collection by combining inspiration from both Bollywood and Nigerian street-style cultures. Patchwork, laser-printed denim on jackets, trousers and tracksuits with greens and oranges were key to the collection. The best part? The entire collection was designed from upcycled fabric or ones sourced from ethical supply chains.
Simone Rocha
Irish folklore ‘The Children of Lir’ served as inspiration for the collection that was staged at London’s Inns of Court. White, cream and black gowns with tulle and flounce made their way to the runway with the dark story playing as the backdrop. Exaggerated puff sleeves and skirts were also seen on the runway. With this collection, Rocha continues with her preoccupation with silhouettes from yesteryears that she fuses with context for the modern-day wearer.
Supriya Lele
With Victoria Beckham herself in the front row, there is little that could go wrong! South Asian designer Lele took to the runway with her signature designs of twisted ’90s-inspired dresses with the now-famous keyhole-cutout dresses. Voluminous ski jackets and a long, loose overcoat were surprise additions to her repertoire.
Harris Reed
Emphasising on the impact of everything experiential, Harris Reed’s showcase was more performative — and also had Sam Smith performing Des’ree’s Kissing You. Inspired by a book on Queen Victoria, the collection was juxtaposed with images of Mick Jagger from the ’70s. Made from repurposed fabric, the collection went beyond the notions of gender and made a strong case for bold designs.
Saul Nash
The multihyphenate designer drew on his Guyanese culture and fused it with his life in London to present a spunky collection along with a film that was shot by his partner. Slim lapels, suits made of wool, matching trousers that are as comfortable as sweats and a reimagination of the Guyanese flag found their way into the line.
Erdem
A reimagination of an underground club frequented by the female cultural movers and shakers of the early ’30s is the direction that Erdem took in their showcase. From a no-holds-barred party to a more sophisticated do, the collection had something for everyone. One could spot a grey skirt-suit covered in studs to a trouser suit decorated with floral print, transparent tulle striped dress embroidered with tiny pearls and a silk affair embellished by indulgent beading. Tailoring and fluidity existed throughout the collection in harmony.
Pictures: Getty Images