In the Sayak Chakraborty creative universe, Satyajit Ray is a dominant presence. Almost a cultural pursuit. Right from naming his jewellery brand after one of Ray’s masterpieces, Jalsaghar, to having launched it with a tribute collection to the multi-hyphenate icon whose works remain perennially young and relevant, making him a youth icon across generations, Ray’s art and his aesthetics deeply resonate with the former student of English literature and the founder and designer of Jalsaghar _ calcutta. And, the muse of his summer line Akalpa will surely remind you of Pather Panchali’s Durga. Her innocence, in those eyes. Uma Dasgupta brings to life Durga and reveals herself in numerous nuances every time you watch the 1955 classic. Sayak’s muse also goes by the name Uma. She is an actress.
Sayak Chakraborty, founder and designer, Jalsaghar_calcutta
The starkness of the frames is striking. There is a certain simple strength in the pictures that spells fierce peace. Hair tied in a neat bun and dewy skin form the canvas for the glistening silver jewellery. “We wanted an edgy face that will go well with the jewellery. The styling is basic,” says Roy Abhisek of Bohurupi Santiniketan, an earthy fashion label, who has styled the campaign.
Flora, fauna and geometry come together for the statement pieces. Signature Jalsaghar_calcutta. “There are eight to 10 different designs including sabeki kaan pasha, Snithi Pati, stone-studded rings and necklaces and pendants. We have lighter as well as heavier pieces. So, you’ll have something to wear to office as well as we have the bigger pashas for wedding wear. They are statement but lightweight,” says Sayak.
Self-taught, Sayak designs all the pieces himself. The brand completes a year this April. “We were discussing how there hasn’t been a tribute to Satyajit Ray in jewellery. Abhisek suggested why don’t I put together a collection. It was kind of a challenge for me and I took it up,” says Sayak, who juggles his passion for jewellery designing with his duties as the HOD of the cultural activities department at Ramakrishna Mission Institute of Culture, Golpark.
Jewellery has, however, always interested Sayak. “I like to mix traditional things with modern aspects,” he says. Jalsaghar_ Calcutta is a testament to that. The lovely peacock motif or his florals have an old-world elegance that will blend in beautifully with a sari or a pair of jeans and tee. “’Jalshaghar’ signifies a royal legacy... but the legacy that is fading away... We see that in Jalsaghar... There has always been a clash between the old and the new. I have tried to bridge this quarrel between the old and the new. I see patterns in everything. Just like in Ray’s work,” says Sayak.
Interestingly, he started out with jewellery for men. The chandelier, Nayak, Devi and Pather Panchali brooches or the buttons are instant eye-catchers. We, however, totally feel they can be styled as accessories for women too. The chandelier brooch with an LBD, red lips and a pair of heels. “If we see history, men did wear a lot of jewellery, but now options are less. There are lots of options for women,” he says.
Silver and copper are his favourites. “Even more than gold. Silver is known to have certain medicinal properties too. And, at the rate at which the price of gold is climbing up, it’ll be great if we can recreate the same designs in silver,” he smiles.
And, like his handcrafted creations which cannot be created in bulk, Sayak is also ready to “go with the flow”. One pattern at a time.
Face: Uma Banerjee
Make-up: Chayan Ray