Effortlessly glamorous yet fuss-free. The Ashish N Soni X Indya collaborative collection is young and gorgeous. A mix of rich and subtle hues, the looks are statement and great for Puja parties. We chat with Ashish N Soni about the range that consists of pre-stitched saris, jumpsuits, pantsuits, skirts and jackets in ivory and black, jewel tones and pastels, look back at his successful career and more.
Though very different sensibilities, it looks like a perfect brand fit...
Yes, but that’s taken a lot of effort from both parties. That’s what a collaboration is about. It needs to, like you said, blend in seamlessly, yet have brand identities that enhance each other.
The process took almost six months of design development and I had to of course bring in our ideation and sensibilities into what Indya was doing. I wanted to do something which was relevant in terms of what’s going on; it’s festive and we needed to do it within the price points that Indya works in. I wanted to experiment with shapes a bit and enhance and bring things we do well to the forefront. The developments went back and forth then in terms of the textiles, the colouring, the prints, the processes that we were going to use. The first four-five months went into development and the next three-four months went into the actual sampling process....
Is there anything from the range that you are especially fond of?
The brocade pantsuit is a favourite of mine. We also worked quite a bit on the pre-pleated sari look because they are easy to wear and timeless and more than anything else, each of them have some distinctive, individual feature which makes them interesting and unique... the blouse or the gold-foil pallu or sequinned edging.
This is a global collection...
That is something that comes to me by default. A brand like Indya has a global audience. Interesting you ask, there have been quite a few international buyers... NRIs and Indians and people staying across the world who have ordered or enquired about the product within the last 10 days of the launch. I am definitely expecting it to do well overseas.
Festive dressing has changed quite a bit...
I think they don’t want to buy something that breaks their bank. Second, they don’t believe in overdressing. In that sense, they are consuming a lot, but they are consuming wisely. They are confident of where they are and comfort is a major factor. Most of them are working people and could be they have home lives and work lives and they need to balance both. So, if they are partying, they need to be in something that looks good, but is still very comfortable.
Do you think the pandemic has repositioned how you dress?
Yes (laughs), that’s for sure. That’s what I am trying to fight a little... the whole world has adopted yoga pants as if it’s their national uniform. We need to break away from that...
So, it’s time to dress up...
Yeah, let’s put it this way... it’s time to dress up.
What has been the secret to sustaining a brand over three decades?
Of course, you need to wake up every morning and have the same energy and passion that you had 30 years ago. That’s not easy but that drive feeds into what you are designing and putting out there. Then of course, keeping your signature and evolving with time. To stay relevant, you have to be focused, absorb what’s happening around you and bring the same amount of passion to the table.
Certain basics don’t change, then or now, which is to bring out your true self, adopt and adapt to what you are going to do best. Put your best foot forward and it has to be marketed well. The access people have with social media now and the way they promote goes hand in hand with what you are creating and then of course focus. Then go all out in pushing that because that is what is going to create your brand recognition.
You started out when you were in your 20s. So, there is an advantage of starting young, right?
Fully agree. That’s definitely an advantage. I had finished school and went straight to design school, NIFT. Once I finished, I worked for about a year and I launched my own label. There are disadvantages and advantages of first-movers, but when I look back at my career, it is better to make those mistakes early on in your career and move on.
Do you think the designers starting out now have the luxury to make a mistake?
I agree with you... it’s not just the mad race, but also because the audience is unforgiving. You could do those mistakes and get away with them in the ’90s, but today they think if a young designer does something wrong, trolling will start... so, that’s a double-edged sword that social media carries. It will help you grow, but even a small mistake is highlighted to the rest of the world.
Are you good with social media?
I have a team that does it but I think I need to be more hands-on.
In hindsight, were the ’90s the most exciting times in terms of creativity?
Absolutely agree with you. There was this sense of freedom. It wasn’t just in India. Whether it was the way Italian designers were taking over America and doing their stuff... even in terms of music... it was out there and expressive... you could put out there fearlessly.
Would you do anything differently?
In my times of working abroad, whether it was New York or Paris, I wish I had gone and lived there for a while. That would have had a different outcome.
What are you looking forward to in the coming decades?
Hopefully some more interesting collaborations and more growth. I want to do more accessories for sure.