No trip to Darjeeling is complete without a stop at Keventer’s and Glenary’s. These two are a foodies’ delight — serving an assortment of Continental dishes complete with a flair of colonial charm. Foodies looking for a local fare (and flair) can head to Kunga, known for its Tibetan and Nepali cuisines. Beyond these fine-dining restaurants, the Queen of the Hills has something much more to offer. Adventurous foodies can go on a gastronomical trail through the labyrinth of the old Chowk Bazar of Darjeeling and sample the local food. This is not fine dining, and is not for the faint-hearted. Those overly concerned with hygiene should stay away too. Here are some local dishes sure to tantalise the taste buds…
Tingmo and Shapta
Tingmo served with mutton shapta and clear soup All photos by Rangan Datta
Tingmo is a flower-shaped Tibetan bread. The word ‘tingmo’ is a combination of two Tibetan words — ‘ting’ and ‘momo’. The former means cloud, while the latter means dumpling, but unlike a momo, the tingmo has no filling. The soft, bun-like steamed bread has a fluffy texture and comes in a white and yellow colour. It is made of flower and yeast, with turmeric being used for the yellow colour. Tingmo is basically a breakfast bread that can be paired with an assortment of veg and non-veg dishes. It goes very well with dry chicken or beef shapta (a traditional stir-fried meat dish originating in Tibet) along with a bowl full of clear soup. Cost is about ₹200 for two persons.
Laphing
Yellow Laphing
Laphing is a cold and spicy noodles dish of Tibetan origin. It is prepared with the starch from moong dal, potato, or wheat flour, then marinated overnight in a spicy mixture of soy sauce, red chilli, salt, vinegar, garlic, oil and other ingredients. It comes in white and yellow versions, with turmeric acting as the colouring agent. It is made into rolls with a soya filling and sliced into bite-sized pieces. Finally, it is topped with a generous help of a spicy sauce sprinkled with sesame seeds. It has a slippery texture and eating it with chopstick is definitely a challenge. A plate costs ₹100.
Sel Roti and Pachoni
Sel roti and mutton pachoni
The jalebi-shaped roti is a popular dish throughout the Darjeeling region and extends all through Nepal. This roti is of Nepali origin and is made out of rice flour. It is deep fried and has a sweet taste. It is paired with a variety of veg and non-veg dishes and some even prefer to have it dipped in milk tea. More adventurous ones can pair the humble sel roti with Mutton Pachoni, a spicy dry dish made of goat intestines. No wonder it is not for the faint-hearted. The cost is about ₹250 for two persons.
Thaipo
Chicken thaipo served with clear soup
Thaipo, or Taipoo, is like an over-sized momo. It is soft and fluffy in texture. This huge momo comes with an assortment of veg and non-veg fillings. Like a momo, it is served with a bowl of clear soup. A Chicken Thaipo costs ₹80 per piece.
Chilli Momo
Veg chilli momo served with soup
A chilli chicken, where the chicken is replaced with a momo. This fusion dish is a new addition to the foodscape of Darjeeling. Chilli chicken was never an authentic Chinese dish, but a Kolkata invention and comes under Kolkata-Chinese cuisine. Over the years, the chicken of the chilli chicken has been replaced with mushroom, paneer and even gobi. Probably the latest addition to the list of replacements is an assortment of veg and non-veg momos, leading to the fusion dish of chilli momo. Also, the momo has been paired with several other gravies, resulting into an assortment of gravy momos known as Jhol Momo. Apart from chilli momos, the eateries in Darjeeling also serves an assortment of Jhol Momos. Cost of a plate of Veg Chilli Momo is ₹120 (6 pieces).
Making the best of the trail
· Most of the eateries serving these local delicacies are located in the Fancy Market and Chowk Bazar region of Darjeeling
· These eateries are located close to each other and can be connected in a food trail
· These are basic eateries and not a fine-dining experience
· A group of 4 to 5 people are recommended for the food trail, as the dishes could be split. These would provide the opportunity for more options
· Darjeeling Walks, a tour operator, arranges such a food trail in Darjeeling
