The year was 2014. Chef Imtiaz Qureshi, then in his mid-80s, was in Kolkata to cook a splendid feast. It was called ‘Royal Repast’ and it unfolded at ITC Sonar. The towering ITC Royal Bengal came five years later.
But Qureshi’s “royal” connection with the City of Joy went back many many years. Every time he was in Kolkata, Qureshi made it a point to visit the Royal Indian Restaurant. The family association dates back to Lucknow more than five decades ago.
“Our family friendship goes back almost 50-60 years, to the days of my pardada (great-grandfather). Both our families are from Lucknow. My grandfather and chef Qureshi shared a close bond; they often met in Lucknow, and would even cook for weddings together. Whenever Qureshi came to Kolkata, we would meet him at ITC Sonar, where he would cook for us with so much love. He, too, would visit our restaurant, whether it was Burrabazar or the Park Circus outlet, to enjoy our chaanp, biryani and shahi tukda,” reminisced Mohammed Irfan, fourth-generation owner of Royal Indian Restaurant.
Qureshi with Mayank Kulshreshtha, the executive chef of ITC Sonar in 2014, at Royal Repast ITC Hotels/ Facebook
When we were introduced at the Dum Pukht restaurant in ITC Sonar, Qureshi was in his customary white chef’s coat, with ‘Grand Master Chef’ embroidered under his name. He warmly greeted guests with folded hands, and the first thing I noticed, apart from his white beard and moustache, were his eyes. They were eyes that could read the room in a glance.
Around the chef's wrist dangled a blue stone bracelet, similar to the one Salman Khan wears
Around his wrist dangled a blue stone bracelet, similar to the one Salman Khan wears to this day. I had read enough to know that Salim Khan and chef Qureshi were thick friends.
Later, when I had the chance to sit with him, I asked him about his earliest memory of cooking. “Cooking chidiya,” he said. I raised my eyebrows inquisitively, and he recounted how he cooked for his Ustad at the tender age of 10. The Qureshis are a clan of butchers-turned-chefs from Lucknow, home to the Nawabs of Awadh. His ancestors were khansamas or chefs who worked in the royal courts of Awadh. He recalled, “There was leftover biryani rice in utensils which these birds used to pick at. So we caught some of the birds, cleaned and prepared them in the manner we would with Murg Musallam, along with some aloo ke kebab.” His Ustad was pleasantly surprised and remarked, “Kamaal hai yaar! You’ve managed to replicate our Musallam!”
With one of his masterpieces — Murgh Musallam Biryani ITC Hotels/ Facebook
Qureshi was full of anecdotes and loved to share them. Another memory stood out from when he was about 16. The then police commissioner in Lucknow was a Muslim with a hearty appetite, and ordered Musallam for a function from Qureshi’s Ustad in Lucknow. Sajju Saab, their stylish bawarchi, prepared the dish, and Qureshi was entrusted with the task of delivering it. He decorated the Musallam with coriander on a silver platter, creating a striking presentation reminiscent of rippling waves.
When he saw the presentation, Sajju Saab inquired about his name, to which Qureshi replied, “Mohan”. He had picked this name inspired by a character from Dilip Kumar’s movie Mela. “Given the tense atmosphere following the partition of India and Pakistan, I had changed my name during that time to Mohan. One has to adapt,” he said wisely, as I paused to listen between furiously taking notes.
Dum Pukht iconic classics served at ITC ITC Hotels/ Facebook
Qureshi joined ITC Hotels in 1976, and went on to create Qureshi classics like the Dum Pukht Biryani, Dal Bukhara, Sikandari Raan and Kakori Kebab. He retired from the hotel in 2017.
His farewell from ITC Hotels in 2017 ITC Hotels/ Facebook
And which biryani did Qureshi enjoy the most? “Mutton, of course. Biryani means mutton biryani for many chefs, and chef Qureshi echoed that sentiment,” said Mohammed Irfan of Royal Indian Restaurant.
The signature Dum Pukht Gosht Biryani. The meat and rice is assembled in the handi, which is sealed with flour, and steamed before serving. At the table, the ‘purdah’ is theatrically broken to release the aroma ITC Hotels/ Facebook
During his lifetime, the culinary icon received many offers from rival hotels. In fact, at the time, Qureshi’s five sons and two daughters were also running or planning to run their own business, and asked him to join them [his eldest son Ishtiyaque founded Kakori House in Bandra, Mumbai]. Qureshi sought Dilip Kumar’s advice. “Dilip saab told me, ‘It’s not about money, it’s about respect.’ And this is the truth. The company gave me respect and I have in turn given them food that is not available anywhere else. Till today, you will enjoy the same food across Dum Pukht that I made when I gave my interview.”
Qureshi with his accolades and (right) the chef receiving Padma Shri from President Pranab Mukherjee in 2016 Facebook
We did. That evening in 2014, not only did we enjoy ample portions of Dum Pukht’s Gosht Biryani, but also Dudhiya Biryani, made with olive oil and cooked on dum with milk, accompanied by an array of qormas, kebabs and salan.
And now, a nawabi dawat awaits the gods.
