From the vibrant street food to the iconic restaurants, from ilish and bekti to kathi rolls and phuchka, chef Gary Mehigan hearts every bit of Kolkata. The ‘food obsessed traveller’, as he calls himself, is back in the city. This time to host a Masterclass and dinner with Conosh, and he has brought with him his trademark humour and an excitement that is contagious!
Having frequented India for TV series and shows, Gary has whole-heartedly embraced and enjoyed desi food and culture over the years, and his love for India is no secret. My Kolkata caught up with him on a rainy Friday morning to chat about Kolkata, phuchka, food in India and a lot more.
Here’s a slice from the chat — 10 questions with Gary Mehigan (and it features phuchkas!)
1. My Kolkata: Welcome to Kolkata! Can you describe the city in one line?
Gary Mehigan: That’s a tough one! Kolkata is undeniably the City of Joy, but it’s so much more than that. There is depth here, and a kind of resonance I haven’t experienced anywhere else. Perhaps partly because I have been here during Durga Puja. It was amazing to see people so spiritually connected. I got the chance to roam around the city, go pandal-hopping as the sun went down. I saw the goddess being submerged in the Hooghly. I know that’s more than one line but hey, you’re talking to me!
2. Your favourite Kolkata street food?
My favourite street food in Kolkata has to be phuchka. It is interesting how everybody in the country argues over phuchka, golgappa and pani puri. Which one is better? Phuchka, of course! Another thing I love is finding a little place where a guy is making masala chai. He adds a little bit of cardamom, pepper, ginger etc, and you see it being made and poured. Then you can just stand there, sipping, and watch the world go by. It may not be strictly street ‘food’, but I love it!
Matt (Preston), George (Calombaris) and I will be here in India in November with Conosh!
3. Which are the restaurants in Kolkata you’d like to visit?
I’ve had the pleasure of dining at several places. One of them is 6 Ballygunge Place, where they serve a nice bekti fry along with the kasundi sauce, which I love. I also like their chingri in a curry. I would like to visit Balaram Mullick & Radharaman Mullick this time for their desserts like sandesh and rasgulla. I have also been to Eau Chew, and would love to return for their awesome Chinese food — simple but delicious. And of course, there’s Kusum Rolls, which may not be a restaurant, but serves these spicy rolls with the Pou Chong sauce. However, all these fancy restaurants got nothing on the phuchka.
4. A question from MasterChef India Season 7 contestant Priyanka Kundu Biswas. Which would you choose between Fish Fry and Fish & Chips?
Fish fry, everytime! Fish and chips is okay — I am English! — but it’s predictable. But fish fry, my goodness! It has different flavours and different fish, it’s always unexpected depending on who is cooking, where it’s being cooked and where the fish is from!
5. What does comfort food mean to you?
For me, comfort food has to be something essentially delicious. The kind of food that makes the hair at the back of your head stand up. Something that makes you groan and you just want to eat more. Or, it could be something made by my mother or grandfather. It could be anything from a roast chicken to something from the grill, that I sit down and enjoy with the family.
6. If one Indian dish had to feature in your last supper, what would it be?
Without a doubt, anything cooked in a tandoor. I know it might sound silly, but there’s something special about just bread or a beautiful skewer of chicken or prawn cooked in that earthy, smoky flavour.
7. Name a chef from India who is at the top of the game…
There are so many! And my chef friends from India are going to be upset with me for picking just one. But I really love the food by chef Avinash Martins at Cavatina in Goa. I think he exemplifies the idea of a chef who is trying to expand the global perception of local cuisine. He is taking Goan cuisine to the rest of the world, incorporating things like poi breads, marinades and rawa fry in modern ways but with the traditions firmly entrenched. I love his philosophies. His wife and him are superhosts. If you haven’t been to Cavatina – go!
8. Which is your favourite place in India?
At the moment, my favourite place in India is Leh, Ladakh, because of the magnificent beauty. What a stunning place! It is a soulful destination with stunning skies and high passes that leave you in awe.
9. Three Instagram accounts you recommend following?
Let’s go with The Locavore, which is by chef Thomas Zacharias. You need to follow that one! You should follow @kristentiballs, which is a pastry school in Melbourne. You can also follow @mattscravat for the MasterChef connection. He posts about some lovely home-cooked food and he’s doing some interesting things at the moment. I don’t know if you know this but Matt (Preston), George (Calombaris) and I will be here in India in November with Conosh!
10. Finally, if you were not a chef, what would you be?
Sad!