Bengali cuisine is more than the song of its flavours. The full-course orchestra from bitters and fritters to doi and mishti are only a fraction of the experience. Hearty warmth flows freely till the spirit is filled. More than the taste buds, Bengali food is served to delight the heart. Graciousness begins with the entree and continues well past the feast. We have an after-the-meal ritual with betel leaves called paan sajano. Delicate betel leaf parcels are filled and offered on a platter, to make the delicious point that the story is far from over. And every good story is made great by the twist in the end.
The Kolkata paan wraps up the entire meal with few words and a flourish. Those golden words are mishti pata or the sweet Betel leaf, chuna, katha, Chaman Bahar and chutney. Once again, nature’s partiality to Bengalis is apparent – the foundation of the Kolkata paan is the mishti pata that grows in Midnapore and the 24 parganas. It is distinct from the jhaal pata and the other betel leaves and is cultivated because of its mild chemistry and subdued bitterness. The local soil, water and seasons brew its intoxicating fragrance. The mishti paan, not to be confused with a dessert, has not only earned its moniker from the leaf; its sharp-sweet herby notes seep through every pore when we bite this tasty bullet.
The foundation of the Kolkata paan is the mishti pata that grows in Midnapore and the 24 parganas
However, nature’s trick is only part of the mishti paan’s pocket of magic. The recipe of Kolkata paan is a leaf straight out of the Book of Wisdom – less is the secret to happiness. Other varieties, which are presented as close rivals of classic Kolkata paan are in truth, just fresh arrivals – more sweet fillings, more sugared peels, candied koromcha (the common cousin of the cherry), coconuts, fruity cuts and sugar-coated mints. All begging the question – is paan meant to douse the taste buds and erase all memories of the meal before? Or is it an after-meal that gently arouses the taste buds one last time before the evening melts into an everlasting memory?
Other varieties, which are presented as close rivals of classic Kolkata paan are in truth, just fresh arrivals – more sweet fillings, more sugared peels, candied koromcha, coconuts, fruity cuts and sugar-coated mints
I cannot imagine a more fitting closure to a memorable meal like the Kolkata mishti paan. And for me every meal is made memorable with it. Graciousness and subtlety meet fair and square in the classic formula of four – Katha-chuna- Chaman Bahar-chutney (Navratan or Meenakshi). Add a hint of cardamom, a lone clove and a drop of rose jelly, all wrapped with love.
We have retrieved Kolkata’s favourite and forgotten recipes for Oh! Calcutta’s exhaustive menu. Yet, one of my favourite recipes that guests relish and request time and again is not shown on the menu offerings. Because paan is never made to order. It is made for the love of gracious moments and gorgeous flavours.
Graciousness and subtlety meet fair and square in the classic formula of four – Katha-chuna- Chaman Bahar-chutney (Navratan or Meenakshi)
There is another point to note about this parting favour. Paan is never bitten off, but placed in the mouth for a minute of wholesome silence. Then it is crushed, mashed and enjoyed behind sealed lips. This secrecy and silence are a major part of its enjoyment. So, we decided to make it more bite-sized for all mouths – even the daintily painted pout. The perfect symmetry of the heart shaped betel leaf is sliced into two even halves. Then, each half is filled and twisted into a mishti paan. And, though no one orders for a paan off the menu, all foodies wait for it with bated breath. At Oh! Calcutta, we have included paan as a pride of Bengali cuisine – not chargeable, not forgettable either.
The best things of life come free of cost – friendship, hearty stories and lasting memories. Kolkata mishti paan finds its place in all them. After meeting my life-long friends and sharing a good meal with them, we each go our own way. But not without carrying a part of our shared story – refreshed by the mishti paan.
A customer pops in a meetha paan at a Kolkata paan shop
Just like how Ustad Rashid Khan’s voice plumbs the shadows of grief mixed with joy in Yaad Piya Ki Aaye and the heart’s longing lasts longer, the music lovers of Kaharwa and Kolkata’s paan aficionados both recognise this haunting pleasure. Mishti paan is a mouthful of thumri that stimulates opposite feelings. Then it vaporises into an after taste of calm. What the rest of the world calls paan is a package of flavours. What Kolkata calls paan is the feeling of being permanently stained by its escaping pleasure. It just stays.
‘Paan ceremony’ of bygone days
Today’s youngsters do not share the same passion for paan as earlier generations. I have memories of thakurma and grand aunts having the afternoon to themselves with a murmuring paan session. Out came the paaner bata or vessel that held all the paan paraphernalia – the nut slicer, or jaanti, saji or intricately carved tray. Watching them, one could imagine a tea ceremony in Japan – the close circle of trust, the light dabs of ingredients, and kindliness that was passed around on a tray of mishti paan. With one paan for every mouth, the grand matriarch of a large clan sweetly shushed all disobedience.
Today’s youngsters do not share the same passion for paan as earlier generations
I go for Kolkata paan as the rarest luxury from another age – the gift of time. Between eating a big meal and diving back into the daily grind, it forms the delicious oasis of calm. A glimpse of what we can really take away from life, the song after the music has stopped, the taste after the feast is over.
Anjan Chatterjee is the chief of Speciality Restaurants, which owns Mainland China, Oh! Calcutta, Cafe Mezzuna, Sigree Global Grill, Hoppipola, Asia Kitchen and more. And yes, he is a foodie! He can be reached at acgenx@gmail.com.
