April 4 was somewhat of a big day for Benaras. On that Tuesday, four typical Benarasi foods — the Benarasi Paan, Benarasi Langda Mango, Ramnagar Bhanta, Adamchini Rice — were given the GI (Geographical Indication) tag. All four items have characteristics that are, of course, unique to the culture and climate of Kashi, but none is perhaps as iconic as the Benarasi Paan. Given how well-travelled the Benarasi Paan is, a GI tag can certainly help separate the originals from the impostors, but it also gives us an opportunity to again celebrate a paan that was once made immortal by Amitabh Bachchan in Don’s ‘Khaike Paan Banaras Wala.’
There is barely a city or town in this country where you will not find a Benarasi Paan. Though betel leaves are now grown in Bihar, Assam, Andhra Pradesh, even West Bengal, no paan enjoys the kind of glamour the Benarasi Paan does. In Kolkata, for instance, a city where everyone — bhadralok and the barir ginni, boro babus and mastermoshais — likes to end their dinners with that ‘Ek Khili Paan’, the Benarasi Paan is a treat beyond compare.
While there are literally hundreds of paan shops in the city where you can sample the Benarasi Paan, My Kolkata visited four that have sealed their place in the paan-lover’s heart.
Kalpataru Bhandar
The counter at Kalpataru Amit Datta
For over 90 years now, Kalpataru Bhandar has been the first destination that several of Kolkata’s paan connoisseurs recommend for a good Benarasi. With a long list of illustrious customers that has included the likes of former president Sarvepalli Radhakrishnan, singer Manna Dey, actor Bhanu Bandopadhyay and footballer P. K. Banerjee, Kalpataru is such a popular haunt that many regular patrons even know it by its address — 6/1A Bankim Chatterjee Street.
Kalpataru Bhandar is renowned for its Khili Paan Barnini Maitra Chakraborty
Nestled inside College Street’s boi para, Kalpataru earned much renown for its Khili Paan, but the shop today sells a whole range of paans. Starting from as little as Rs 5, the cost of one paan can go up to Rs 51 (Mon Matowara), and if you are really in the mood to indulge yourself, you can even ask the shop for their Rs 500 Badshahi Paan. Other notable highlights are the Mukhoranjan, Mukhbislash and Dilkhush Paan. The owners here assure instant gratification.
Shivshankar Benarasi Pan Bhandar
The Shivshankar Benarasi Pan Bhandar on 201, Bidhan Sarani Amit Datta
Located at the intersection of Bidhan Sarani and Vivekananda Road, the Shivshankar Benarasi Pan Bhandar is, thankfully, hard to miss. Having started business in 1960, this shop sells paans that make mouths helplessly salivate. For those who have been fortunate to have a Benarasi Paan in the lanes of the holy city, the feeling of betel leaves melting on one’s tongue is perhaps unforgettable. A Shivshankar paan, you might find, dissolves just as effortlessly.
Though located in north Kolkata, this paaner dokan is frequented by people from all corners.
The Kesariya Special (Rs 50) Amit Datta
While its most popular and highest-selling item remains the small gundi paan (Rs 20), customers also seem to have other favourites. The Masala Paan (Rs 30) and Kesariya Special (Rs 50), for instance, have many takers. Some even come here for the Couple Paan (Rs 1,000). Look out for the chocolate and ice paans, but also keep room for the paan that Shivshankar wraps in tabak. Take our word for it, they really are worth their weight in gold!
Taj Mahal Pan Shop
The Taj Mahal Pan Shop, next to the New Market outlet of Aminia, plays Mohammed Rafi songs on loop Amit Datta
If you are a regular at the Esplanade branch of Aminia, you might be familiar with their post-pasanda drowsiness, or even their post-biriyani stupor. Stumbling out of the restaurant, you are bound to have also heard a Mohammed Rafi song. The nearby Taj Mahal Pan Shop plays Rafi on loop, everything from the peppy ‘Gulabi Aankhein’ to the melancholic ‘Din Dhal Jaye’.
The hot-selling Kimam Paan Amit Datta
Much like its playlist that has only one singer, Taj’s menu also has just one paan — the Rs 22 Kimam Paan. Kept cold on a bed of ice, the paan inevitably makes you drool, and the speed with which it melts in your mouth is deceptive. The perfect way to round off a big Aminia meal!
Laxman Paan Shop
Laxman’s ice paan Lygeia Gomes
Serving south Kolkata its paan since 1976, Laxman Paan Shop on Sarat Bose Road stays busy through the day. You find cars parked near here even after midnight. There might be a reason for this. Laxman’s scrumptious paans are also things of beauty. Everything from the gundi paan (Rs 15) to the chocolate (Rs 60) and ice paan (Rs 70) looks as good as it tastes. A rare paan shop that can be found on both Swiggy and Zomato, Laxman helps the Benarasi Paan travel even further. If, for some reason, you can’t get to it, the paan now comes to you!
