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regular-article-logo Monday, 21 October 2024

Maharashtrian dishes, depending on place of origin, can offer a wide variety of tastes and flavours

The palate of Maharashtra cuisine spans a spectrum from mild spicy to intensely spicy flavours

Durri Bhalla Published 20.10.24, 05:54 AM
Ragda Pattice

Ragda Pattice Pictures: Pabitra Das

While Maharashtra is known for its geographical diversity, the culinary traditions of the state are categorised into two distinct styles — the coastal (Konkan) and the inland (Varadi) embracing flavours from Pune, Nashik and Kolhapur districts. The palate of Maharashtra cuisine spans a spectrum from mild spicy to intensely spicy flavours. In the Konkan coastal area, the cuisine presents a wide selection of seafood dishes, known for their harmonious mix of sweet, sour and spicy taste.

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RAGDA PATTICE

Ragda Pattice is one of the most beloved street food in Maharashtra. The combination of cooked white matar and potato tikki (cutlet) along with the chutneys and other condiments is a dish made in heaven. Extremely delicious.

INGREDIENTS

#For the sweet chutney

 ½ cup tamarind (imli)

 250g dates, seedless

 750g jaggery

 Salt to taste

 1tsp black salt

 ½tsp ginger powder

 1tbsp Kashmiri red chilli powder

 1tbsp cumin powder

 ½tsp black pepper powder

 1l water

#For the green chutney

 1 cup packed coriander leaves

 ½ cup packed mint leaves

 1-inch piece of ginger

 3 spicy green chilies

 1tbsp roasted gram dal

 ½tsp black salt

 1tsp cumin powder

 1tsp aamchur (dry mango powder)

 Salt to taste

 2-3 ice cubes (so that the colour of the chutney remains green)

 Water as required

#For the Ragda

 250g safed matar (dry white peas)

 Water as required

 ½tsp turmeric

 ½tsp cumin powder

 ½tsp coriander powder

 ½tsp fennel (saunf) powder

 1-inch piece ginger julliened

 Fresh coriander chopped fine

#For the potato pattice

 1tbsp oil

 1tsp cumin seeds

 1-2 green chilies chopped finely

 5-6 boiled potatoes, medium size

 Salt to taste

 A handful of fresh coriander leaves chopped fine

 ½-inch piece of ginger, minced

 Oil for cooking the pattice

METHOD

#For the sweet chutney

 Soak the tamarind and dates separately in hot water for 15 to 20 minutes. Squeeze the tamarind to take out the pulp. Then transfer the pulp and soaked dates in a mixer grinder and grind to a fine paste.

 Now take a wok and strain the mixture pulp through a sieve, and then add the jaggery and the remaining spices.

 Switch on the flame and let the jaggery melt. As and when you start to cook, a layer of scum will form. Remove the scum with a spoon and cook the chutney on medium flame, for 30 minutes while stirring occasionally.

 Cook the chutney till you get a thin syrup-like consistency. Switch off the flame. Do not cook for too long as it will thicken a bit as it cools down.

 Pour it in an air-tight glass container and you can refrigerate it for a couple of days. Use as required.

#For the green chutney

 Add all the chutney ingredients in a grinding jar and grind to fine paste. The chutney should not be runny in consistency.

#For the Ragda

 Soak the white peas overnight or for 8 hours. Drain the water and rinse with fresh water.

 In a pressure cooker add the peas and fill water until it is 1cm above the surface of the peas.

 Add the powdered spices, salt and stir well and pressure cook on high flame for 1 whistle and then on medium flame for 2 whistles.

 After you depressurise, check for its doneness by mashing with finger.

 Now continue to cook without the lid and bring it to a boil. Then use a potato masher and mash lightly while keeping few chunks intact.

 Cook till it becomes slightly thick in consistency. Then add ginger julienned and chopped coriander leaves. Keep aside.

#For the potato pattice

 Heat oil on medium flame and cumin and green chillies. Stir and cook for a few seconds. Then add the boiled potatoes, mash the potatoes while adding. Add salt, fresh coriander and ginger. Cook for 2 minutes. Transfer to a bowl. (In case you feel that the potato mash is wet then you can add lightly soaked and crushed white bread slices, removing the crust. It will absorb the water and the potato mash will not be soggy.)

 Once the mixture cools make small balls and flatten slightly to make round pattice.

 Now shallow-fry the pattice on medium heat till it turns brown and crisp on both sides.

#For the assembly

 Place two pattice on a plate. Put Ragda on top and sides of the pattice. Put sweet tamarind chutney on top. Put green chutney. Sprinkle chaat masala. Put julliened ginger. Put finely chopped onions. And finally sprinkle a little sev.

 Enjoy the Maharashtrian style Ragda Pattice.

KOLHAPURI TAMDA MUTTON RASSA

Tamda means red and spicy. Kolhapur being in the interior of Maharashtra is a hot and dry area. Here the people prefer to have spicy dishes and are fond of mutton and chicken. They have their own special Kolhapuri masala. But since it may not be available I have shown how to make this curry with the ingredients which are there in the readymade Kolhapuri masala. If you go step by step as I have shown, you cannot go wrong. You will get this lovely red spicy Kolhapuri Mutton Rassa which you can enjoy with Bhakri, or rice.

INGREDIENTS AND METHOD

 Marinate 1kg mutton with 1tsp turmeric powder and 1tsp salt. Mix well and keep aside for an hour.

 Dry-roast 2tbsp of white sesame seeds.

Remove to a plate.

Dry-roast 2½tbsp of poppy seeds.

Remove and keep on the same plate.

Then take 6-7 pieces of cashews and fry in little oil till it becomes a bit brown.

Remove and keep on the same plate.

Then fry four medium onions sliced fine and fry in the same oil till they turn golden-brown.

Now fry about 8tbsp of coarsely grated dry coconut in little oil till they turn brown. Remove and keep on the same plate.

Now put all these roasted and fried ingredients in a mixer grinder jar. Add little water and make a fine paste.

 In a pressure cooker add 4tbsp of mustard oil.

Add a few dry spices like cinnamom, peppercorns, cloves, and bay leaves.

Fry for a few seconds.

Then add the marinated mutton.

Fry on high flame for 5-8 minutes.

Then add a litre of water and cook for 5-6 whistles until the mutton is tender. Keep it aside.

#Cooking Kolhapuri masala mix

Kolhapuri Tamda Mutton Rassa

Kolhapuri Tamda Mutton Rassa

Heat 5tbsp of mustard oil in a wok or pan.

Press 4 garlic cloves in hot oil.

Fry until golden-brown.

Add 2tbsp of ginger garlic paste, 1tbsp of cumin powder, 1tbsp of Kashmiri red chilli powder, 1tbsp of hot chilli powder or (according to taste), 1½tsp of garam masala powder and salt according to taste.

(Remember we had put salt in marination of mutton.) Cook for 5 minutes on low heat or else the masalas will burn.

Now add the paste of dried and fried ingredients. Mix well.

Now cook this paste on low heat for at least 15 minutes and keep stirring to avoid it from burning.

 Now add this paste to the cooked mutton.

Mix it well. Cook this at high flame till you see bubbles.

At this stage you can add hot water to achieve the desired consistency of the gravy. Cover and cook on low flame for 10 minutes.

Switch off the flame. Let the curry rest for 30 minutes. This will enhance the colour of the gravy into a nice red and also enhance its taste.

 Serve garnished with chopped coriander leaves with rotis, rice or parathas.

Note: Add chili powder according to taste.

KONKAN-STYLE POMFRET FRY

Konkan area of Maharashtra is abundant in all types of seafood. Crabs, prawns, fish, clams, you can savour it all. They have their own unique masalas and pastes which make it so mouthwatering. Here, I will show one very simple pomfret fish fry in a red paste.

INGREDIENTS

#For the red paste (for 3-4 pomfrets big size)

 10 dry red chillies soaked in water

 ½-inch ginger peeled and sliced

 8 garlic cloves

 5 fenugreek seeds

 ¼tsp fennel seeds

 ¼tsp cumin seeds

 ½tsp coriander seeds

 4 cloves

 8 peppercorns

 ½tbsp oil

 ½tsp sugar

 Salt to taste

METHOD

 In a grinder add all the above ingredients and grind into a thick smooth paste. Keep aside.

 Clean and make slits in the pomfret. Sprinkle some salt and lemon juice and let marinate for 10 minutes.

 Now coat with the red paste all over and in the slits also. Also put the masala in the inside of the fish. Keep aside.

#For the coating

 In a bowl, put 1tbsp semolina, 2tbsp rice flour, salt to taste, ½tsp degi red chilli powder, ¼tsp coriander powder and a pinch of amchoor powder.

 Heat the kadhai with oil in it (enough for shallow frying).

 Now quickly dust the fish with semolina coating. The coating should be light.

 Now shallow-fry the fish on both sides till it is cooked through.

NOTE: Do not leave the fish with the coating for long, otherwise the semolina will soak the juices and it will become a thick coating. So fry it as soon as you dust the coating on the fish. Serve hot with an onion salad and lemon wedges.

KONKANI PRAWN CURRY

Simply put, Konkani cuisine is what is referred to as the cuisine of the west coast of India that includes coastal Maharashtra, Goa and a sliver of Karnataka. The Konkan coast’s spice trio is the defining aspect that adds plenty of heft to the region’s popularity. Accentuated by its robust flavours, thanks to its three main pillars — fiery red chillies, tangy kokum (dried mangosteen) and the unavoidable coconut in its myriad avatars — the food of the Konkan is like no other.

INGREDIENTS

 1kg tiger prawns, cleaned and deveined

 1½tsp turmeric

 ½tsp salt

 ½tsp lemon juice

 1tbsp coriander seeds

 4 dry red chillies

 5tbsp oil

 6 cloves of garlic

 1-inch piece of ginger chopped

 1 big onion sliced

 1 onion finely chopped

 100g (approx) dry grated coconut

 1 tomato, big, finely chopped

 A handful of chopped coriander leaves

 3tbsp Malvani masala

 1½ cup water

 2-3 pieces of kokum or 1tbsp of tamarind pulp

METHOD

Konkani Prawn Curry

Konkani Prawn Curry

 Marinate tiger prawns with 1tsp turmeric, ½tsp salt and ½tsp lemon juice. Keep aside.

 In a frying pan dry-roast 1tbsp coriander seeds. Then add 4 dry red chillies. Remove and keep aside on a plate.

 In the same pan, heat 1tbsp oil. Then add 6 cloves of garlic and 1-inch piece ginger chopped. Add 1 big onion sliced. Saute till golden in colour. Then add dry grated coconut about 100g. Saute till the coconut changes colour. Then keep in the same plate. Let it cool. Then grind it all in a mixer grinder with a little water to make a fine smooth paste. Keep aside.

 In a pot heat 4tbsp oil. In it add 1 finely chopped onion. Saute till light brown.

 Now add 1 big finely chopped tomato. Saute till tomato is mushy. Then add a handful of chopped coriander leaves. Mix well. Saute for a few seconds.

 Now add 3tbsp Malvani masala (easily available in super markets and Amazon). Now add ½tsp turmeric. Saute a few seconds.

 Now add the ground masala and saute for 5 minutes on medium flame. Then add 1½ cup water and let it come to a boil. Then cook on medium flame for 10 minutes. (If you feel the consistency is thick you can add more water).

 Now add the marinated prawns and 2-3 pieces of kokum. (In case you don’t have kokum you can add 1tbsp of tamarind pulp or according to taste).

 Cook the prawns for only 4 minutes. Otherwise they will be overcooked. Now add some chopped coriander leaves and serve hot with steamed rice.

Note: In case you are unable to get Malvani Masala you can use 1tsp degi mirch and 1tsp Kashmiri red chilli powder. Spice level is according to taste.

MISAL PAV

Misal Pav is a spicy Indian dish and is said to have been invented in Khandeshali in Maharashtra in the 1850s. Maratha warrior Kondaji Farzand is belived to have invented Missal Pav as a quick and nutritious meal for his soldiers during battles. This dish has become a fixture of Maharastra cuisine and restaurants have been serving it for over a hundred years. This dish is always served hot. It could be a breakfast dish, a mid-day snack or a meal by itself.

INGREDIENTS

#For the Vatan (paste)

 1-2tbsp oil

 1tbsp cumin seeds

 1tsp shah jeera

 1tbsp coriander seeds

 ½-inch cinnamon

 2 green cardamoms

 1 black cardamom

 1tsp black peppercorns

 4 cloves

 ½-inch piece ginger

 10 garlic cloves

 1tbsp white sesame seeds

 1tbsp poppy seeds

 2 medium sized onions with skin

 ½ dry coconut

 ¼ cup fresh coconut grated

#For the Matki

 3 cups sprouted moth

 ¼tsp turmeric

 Salt to taste

 1½l water

#For the Tarri/Kat

 ½ cup oil

 1 big size onion, chopped

 3-4tbsp onion garlic masala (available on Amazon and also big supermarkets). This is an important ingredient.

 1½tbsp Kashmiri red chilli powder

 ½tsp turmeric powder

 Prepared Vatan and salt to taste.

#For the moth in the masala (matkichi ussad)

 1tbsp oil

 1tsp mustard seeds

 2 green chillies chopped

 cooked moth

 ¼tsp turmeric powder

 1tsp Kashmiri red chilli powder

 1tbsp onion garlic masala

 Salt to taste

 A handful of chopped coriander leaves

METHOD

#For the Vatan

 In a pan heat oil. Add cumin seeds, shah jeera, coriander seeds, cinnamon, cardamoms, black cardamom, peppercorns and cloves. Saute for a few seconds only till fragrant. Now add ginger, garlic cloves, sesame seeds, poppy seeds. Saute on very low flame for about 1½ minutes. Keep aside, let it cool.

 Now make 2-3 slits on the onions and roast on open flame on a wire rack with the dry coconut till it gets dark. The coconut will get dark earlier so remove that first, and then the onion when that too gets burnt on the outside. Only the skin of the onions will get black. The inside will be white. Then chop them small.

 Now put in a grinder jar along with the masalas. Also add grated coconut fresh. Now add little water. And grind the Vatan to a fine paste. Use as little water as possible to grind this. Keep aside.

#For the Matki

 In a pot add all the ingredients and mix well. Cover and cook for 15-20 minutes. Drain the Matki. Do not throw away the water. That will be used to make the Tarri.

#For the Tarri

 In a pot heat oil. Then add onion and saute on medium heat till light golden brown, which will take about 5 minutes. Then add the powdered masalas. Cook the masalas for1-2 minutes on low flame. It should not burn. Now add the Vatan and salt to taste. Stir and cook the masala till oil separates. This process will take about 10-15 minutes. If you feel the masala is sticking to the pan you can add little hot water and keep cooking till oil separates.

 Now add the water of the cooked Matki and mix well. You have to cook this Tarri on medium flame for at least 20 minutes. The oil (tarri) will float on top. Check salt.

#For the moth in the masala (matkichi ussad)

 In a pan heat oil. Add mustard seeds and green chillies. Let the mustard seeds crackle. To this add the cooked matki, turmeric, Kashmiri red chilli powder, onion garlic masala and coriander leaves. Stir and cook this for 5 minutes on medium to high flame. Switch off flame and sprinkle some more fresh-cut coriander leaves. Matki is ready.

#For the potato bhaji (batayachi bhaji)

 In a pan heat 1tbsp oil. Add ½tsp mustard seeds, ½tsp cumin seeds, 10-12 curry leaves and 1 medium size chopped onion and 2 green chillies chopped fine. Cook till the onions get light golden on medium flame.

 Now take 5-6 boiled medium potatoes and roughly crush with hand and add in the pan. Add ¼tsp turmeric powder, salt to taste and a handful of fresh chopped coriander leaves. Stir and mix and cook for 2-4 minutes. You can mash slightly while stirring it.

#To assemble the Misal Pav

In a bowl first put a little potato bhaji. Then put matkichi ussad. On it put a some farsan (sev, gathia mix). Then put a ladle of Tarri with the oil. Add little chopped onions, sprinkle chopped coriander leaves and a sqeeze of lemon juice. Serve with hot pavs and sliced onions.

Durri Bhalla is a cookery expert and author of Indian Bohra Cuisine and Inner Truth To Good Health And Weight Loss. You can find her @durribhallakitchen on Instagram, @Durribhallakitchen on Facebook and Durri Bhalla on YouTube

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