All of a sudden, I could feel the vibe changing. The semi-arid topography — and even the skyline to an extent — remained the same but the feel was different. Even the drive felt more relaxed than it had when I first cruised out of Dubai. There was something in the air that told me I was in Abu Dhabi.

Mid-November saw me spend a couple of days in the largest emirate of the United Arab Emirates, which also happens to be its capital. And while Abu Dhabi boasts of its fair share of towering skyscrapers, a buzzing nightlife, and some of the world’s best food stops, it also has a uniquely evolving culture scape that keeps it vibrant yet rooted. If you have a few days to spend in Abu Dhabi and want to take in its real, unhurried essence, here’s what we recommend you make time for....

Sheikh Zayed Grand Mosque

The Sheikh Zayed Grand Mosque is not only one of the world’s largest mosques, but also an architectural marvel

Even for those like me who aren’t particularly big on visiting places of worship, the Sheikh Zayed Grand Mosque needs to be on your list just for the sheer architectural marvel that it is. One of the world’s largest mosques and named after its late visionary leader (as many landmarks in Abu Dhabi are), the expanse of the Sheikh Zayed Grand Mosque is mindboggling. The mosque, which has an open-door policy, opens early, but I was glad to be able to walk into its premises during twilight. The milky white minarets seemed to gleam even more as darkness started descending. Every corner of the mosque needs you to spend at least a few moments staring in sheer amazement.

And with good reason. Eighty-two white marble domes,1,096 amethyst and jasper embedded columns, reflective pools, gold-plated Swarovski chandeliers, a sprawling prayer hall, and a courtyard featuring one of the largest marble mosaic artworks in the world, will have you going click-click. The mosque holds a Guinness World Record for the largest single hand-woven carpet and also boasts of one of the largest chandeliers in a mosque. What I loved most was the calligraphy encircling the hollows of its domes, with verses from the Quran and painted with gold leaf.

The piece-de-resistance at the Sheikh Zayed Grand Mosque is this eyeball-grabbing chandelier made of Swarovski crystals (top) and (above) this sprawling single hand-woven carpet in the mosque’s prayer hall has a Guinness World Record to its name

I was dying inside that abaya that covered me from top to toe (a must for women entering the mosque) and made me look like I had walked straight out of the sets of The Handmaid’s Tale. But the beauty, grandeur and the calm I felt at Sheikh Zayed Grand Mosque made me forget that. Just about.

Jubail Mangrove Park

Kayaking is a great way to see the marine life and fauna of the Jubail Mangrove Park

My exploration of the other side of Abu Dhabi — the tranquil, the rooted, the old-world — took me to the Jubail Mangrove Park. A wide expanse of greenery located right at the bustling centre of the city, the Jubail Mangrove Park is home to a wide variety of avian and marine species that are native to Abu Dhabi. On a good day, one can kayak through the mangroves and explore the park, but I was simply content to stand at a vantage point overlooking the forest and take in the verdant abundance in front of me. Not an everyday sight for city folks like us.

Qasr Al-Hosn

Qasr al-Hosn, with its unique architecture and rows of kaash phool is a photographer’s delight

There is an Instagram-worthy picture screaming to be clicked at every corner of Qasr al-Hosn, but we suggest that you keep that camera aside for a moment and take in the beauty of the place.

Originally built in the 18th century as a conical watchtower to defend the only freshwater well in Abu Dhabi that later became the permanent residence of Sheikh Zayed, Qasr al-Hosn today is a historic landmark in the heart of the city. One can get lost in the interiors of this beautiful property, which serves as a gateway to understanding the rich and diverse culture of Abu Dhabi, and also recreates the living quarters of its erstwhile ruler. It has an extensive display of artefacts and archival materials dating back to as far as 6,000BC, which will make many a history buff like me very happy. And by the way, there is plenty of kaash phool in its premises to remind one of Durga Puja, a few thousand miles away from home.

Louvre Abu Dhabi

Always wanted to visit Louvre in Paris, but haven’t been able to yet, with Covid-19 putting paid to all your plans? Well, there is a Louvre in Abu Dhabi too!

The art museum located in Saadiyat operates under an agreement between the UAE and France that allows it to use the Louvre’s name until 2037. The Louvre at Abu Dhabi has been described by its parent museum as “France’s largest cultural project abroad”. That’s not surprising considering that the gigantic museum — at 260,000 sqft, it’s the largest museum in the Arabian Peninsula — houses artefacts and exhibits sourced from almost all the cultures and civilisations of the world, including a large section that’s dedicated to India and the subcontinent. If you aren’t too much of a museum person, then just walk around and admire the many installations that pepper the Louvre. An eyecatching installation comprising colours instantly wanted to make me play Holi!

All pictures (except of Jubail Mangrove Park) by the author