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regular-article-logo Wednesday, 18 December 2024

Arunachal Pradesh rewards visitors with picture-postcard perfect vistas and warm hospitality

Magically, on reaching Bhalukpong, the gradual ascent begins and, with it, the air becomes progressively cooler

Tarun Sircar Published 15.12.24, 07:35 AM
One of the monasteries at Bomdila

One of the monasteries at Bomdila Pictures by the author

‘You’ll are going to west Arunachal and aren’t going to visit Tawang?’ my friends exclaimed in utter disbelief when we shared our plans to visit a few places in Arunachal Pradesh between November 8 and 13. We also decided not to take the usual road trip from Guwahati and instead fly from Calcutta to Itanagar and then take the road south via Assam to ultimately reach Bhalukpong.

Magically, on reaching Bhalukpong, the gradual ascent begins and, with it, the air becomes progressively cooler. The puffy white clouds float lazily against a brilliant blue sky, setting the tone for a rather unhurried and leisurely trip.

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The well-maintained roads from Bhalukpong to Bomdila snaked their way through lush green hills offering breathtaking views and stunning vistas of terraced hills, picturesque valleys and meandering rivers, as well as, of course, countless waterfalls. It felt as though we were in one non-stop promotional video, edited to perfection.

We had chosen Bomdila as our base. This cosy, compact, little hill town offered us every required convenience. Our hotel was located in the middle of the main market area opposite the new monastery. Every morning, we would wake up to the deep, reverberating sound of the danchen (long horn), which in itself was meditative.

The market was not very big yet the shops on both sides of the road catered to almost every possible requirement — fruits and vegetables, souvenirs and curios, woollen garments and fashionable apparel, fast food, restaurants, a few tea shops and even an ATM!

Walking around Bomdila was a mesmerising experience. Being an early riser, I would go for my morning walk to stand and soak in the warmth of the early morning sun from the view point close to the monastery. A cute little puppy followed me and eventually decided to make a meal of my shoe laces. The early morning sun cast a magical glow on the surrounding hills as I watched a column of smoke belly dance its way up to a clear blue sky. I sipped my butter tea (salty) and bit into the freshly-fried silroti, a local, skinny doughnut-looking snack. Talk about chilling out on a holiday!

From Bomdila we decided to visit the Thumsung Dhargye Ling Monastery in Dirang. Strategically located on a hilltop, this architectural beauty presents a combination of spiritual and scenic experiences. The vibrant colours, intricate decorations and murals, and colourful flags add to the visual delight. A walk around in the serene ambience helps one soak in the tranquil atmosphere, bringing about a feeling of peace and calm. If this is not enough, the view points from the upper levels transport you to a temporary state of pure bliss!

The pleasantly cool weather and the walk around the large monastery makes one ravenously hungry. We decided to try a small little restaurant we had spotted close to the monastery on the drive up. I must mention that the food was finger-licking delicious. We ordered Kharzi (a local pulao) along with Mooli Raita and Oying (a vegetarian stew). It was a meal to remember. More so because of the warmth and prompt service we received. While we were enjoying our meal, we couldn’t help but overhear a large group of noisy bikers contemplating visiting a place called Mandala. Spontaneously we decided to go there after lunch.

Spectacular scenic beauty on the way to Shergaon from Bomdila, Shergaon, where moments are captured and memories are made. Forever, The cute little waterfall was worth the short trek from Shergaon

Spectacular scenic beauty on the way to Shergaon from Bomdila, Shergaon, where moments are captured and memories are made. Forever, The cute little waterfall was worth the short trek from Shergaon

The spontaneous decision turned out to be a game changer. Mandala was breathtakingly beautiful. Alpine meadows, lush forests and rugged rock terrain combined to present a visual treat. It was cloudy and cold — very cold actually — when we got to the very top.

The sun was about to set shortly. The fading golden light all around created a surreal experience as we stood at the base of a rather large Buddha statue and looked up in complete awe. The cold had this sneaky quality of getting through and we just had to visit the tiny cafe, more for the welcoming warmth of the bonfire than the tiny cups of hot coffee.

The drive back to Bomdila was enchanting. The surrounding hills soon turned to ghostly silhouettes and, with time, were dotted with tiny lights representing the sparse local population. If there was one thing I regretted on this trip it was not having spent enough time in Mandala.

Picture-postcard perfect! That’s exactly how I described Shergaon, our next destination, to my sister and brother-in-law over the phone. The drive from Bomdila passes through a few army cantonments which are very well maintained, clean and extremely beautiful. We asked our driver to stop at several locations as the sheer beauty of the places warranted to be captured for posterity. Shergaon is what great memories are all about.

The short trek to the small and cute waterfall is worth the effort.

The gently flowing stream has a soothing effect and brings about a sense of calm. One that is quickly shattered as you try and cross the colourfully decorated Hanging Bridge. It moans and creaks as you step onto it and then gently starts to sway. The swaying gets progressively scarier and, to add to the fear, it even moves up and down, scaring the daylights out of you.

Once you reach the middle, fear is replaced with awe as the view is mindboggling. You forget the condition of the bridge and soak in the sensational natural surroundings. The short trek had made us hungry and we decided to try a newly-opened restaurant. The Indian food was hot, delicious and excellent. I closed my eyes for a moment while writing this and wonderful memories rushed back and I promised myself that I would visit again. And again.

Did I forget to mention the visit to the Orchid Research Centre at Tipi? It’s an incredible display of a wide variety of rare and not so rare yet equally beautiful orchids. “Clean Arunachal. Green Arunachal” is a slogan I read umpteen times on this visit. Sadly, tourists have left their mark on each beautiful spot, littering it with plastic bottles and discarded wrappers. More than the locals, who have to be requested not to burn garbage, tourists have to act in a more responsible manner so that this incredibly beautiful place remains just that — pristine, picturesque and peaceful.

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