Shaankha is the white bangle made from conch shell that is traditionally worn by Hindu married women in Bengal. It is generally paired with pola, or bangles made of coral. A set of shaankha and pola are worn on both hands, with a loha or iron bangle between the two on the left hand.

Shaankha and pola are not worn by many women these days, especially in the city, often because women find it problematic to have to demonstrate their marital status this way, as they have to with sindur. But the bride often wears them still, if only for the wedding.

The shaankha-pola ceremony at the wedding takes place early in the morning and is part of the ritual called Dodhimangal. Both bangles are slipped on to the bride’s wrists by seven married women of the family. These shaankha-pola are presented to the bride by her mother.

Pola is a polished smooth bangle, shaankha generally has intricate carvings on it and sometimes has gold worked into it. The shaankha comes in various thicknesses.

A thick shaankha with very fine designs is a coveted thing, as is a shaankha carved out without a joint from the conch shell. Shaankha can be quite expensive. The designs can be abstract or in the pattern of leaves, lotuses or a cluster of grapes or flowers.

The contrast of the white shaankha and red pola, which mirrors that of the red-bordered white sari, is a special feature of Bengali tradition. White stands for purity, red for auspiciousness.

One account traces the shaankha to Bengali fishermen who used to collect conch shells as gifts for their wives. Later they began to powder the shells and make bangles out of them. They were greatly skilled. The bangles went on to become an important Bengali wedding ritual.

Today shaankhas are made at factories where a huge pile of conch shells is broken.

A special saw is used to cut a shell with water continuously being poured over it. Later the crude bangles are chiselled and buffed and elaborate designs are carved on them. If there are joints, they are concealed with designs.