With the reopening of jungles post monsoon, there has been a renewed interest in jungle safaris, and Ranthambore is no exception. However, looking beyond its famed jungles, Ranthambore has much more to offer as I discovered on a recent trip.

Museum Musings

A roughly three-hour drive from Jaipur International Airport and the landscape changes dramatically with reference to all things tiger, or sher, as I reach my retreat for the next few days at Aamaghati Wildlife Resort, India’s first jungle-themed resort. Whether in name boards or in the imagery here, the landscape is dotted with the most famous resident of this area — the tiger. The town is also full of Canters and Jeeps used for the safaris. So, there is no missing why people come here. And yes, the town is called Sherpur too. However, I wanted to scratch beyond the jungle and decided to look around.

My first stop was at the Rajiv Gandhi Regional Museum of Natural History. The two-storeyed museum is a great way to understand the biodiversity of the state and has several galleries that highlight different aspects of the region and beyond. There is a gallery on the Biodiversity of Rajasthan, which highlights the critically endangered Great Indian Bustard as well. The gallery on ‘Common Plants and Vertebrates of Ranthambore Tiger Reserve’, gives an interesting insight into the jungle. For instance, the core/critical tiger habitat covers 1,113.36sq km and the buffer/peripheral area is 297.92sq km.

The Padmavati Talab as seen from the Ranthambore fort

There is a lot of information here on the flora, fauna and other species seen in the national park as well. As you walk through the space, you will come across numerous galleries that showcase aspects like the bird diversity of Rajasthan, biodiversity of Western Ghats, and adaptation in desert flora and fauna. There are several exhibitions on plastic pollution, heritage sites of India, seeds of India, illustrations of biological specimens, textiles of India, water conservation and tribes of India.

Sights & Sounds

With all the walking in the museum, I came back to the retreat in time for a spa session at the in-house Sri Sri Wellbeing Centre, that was a godsend. The massage session was relaxing and rejuvenating, just what was needed. Refreshed, I headed for high-tea, where I was treated to a traditional music performance by local artistes. The bonus was a child artiste who broke out into an impromptu dance that made the evening memorable.

I also had a chance to see how lac bangles are made by a craftsman who not just demonstrated the process but also customised the bangles — in terms of design and size. I learned that these bangles are crafted from natural resin obtained from lac insects. Lac bangles are lightweight and the traditional techniques used in their creation ensures that each bangle is a unique work of art, reflecting the skill and artistry of the artisans who craft them. The best part is that when you buy a pair, you also help support local art and craftsmanship.

The Battis Khambha Chhatri in Ranthambore fort is an impressive structure

History Calling

After a fruitful first day, I took an early start the next morning to trek to the Ranthambore Fort. Located within the national park premises, this is probably the only jungle that has a fort and one that dates to the tenth century. A muster of peacocks and peahens greeted me at the entrance, unmindful of my enthusiasm, clicking their pictures as they are busy eating berries.

I was told the trek takes a couple of hours. So, I hired a local guide, Kamlesh, to take me through this Unesco World Heritage Site. There are several gates that are part of the fort and the design has been made in such a way that elephants could not attack these gates. Walking up the fort, it was hard to miss the beautiful intricately carved columns above the gate. The fort has been designed to be impregnable but also has several secret tunnels — they have now been closed — as escape mechanisms in case of an attack. A series of square holes, some small and some big, served as points to attack the enemy. As morbid as it sounds, my guide told me hot oil and hot water would be poured through these holes.

There are some magnificent view points as well that offer stunning views of the Padmavati Talab. Look closely and you will see crocodiles swimming here. Walking ahead, we stopped at the Battis Khambha Chhatri, a magnificent structure that also has an ancient Shiva temple inside. The remnants of the Hamir Palace that is now in ruins is also here. At the end of the fort, the famed Trinetra Ganesh Temple is said to be the oldest temple in Rajasthan. This temple has the whole family of Lord Ganesha — he is depicted with three eyes here — with his wives and children. I am told the third eye represents knowledge and the idol is self-manifested. The fort has several other temples and structures and, at the end of the trek, it gave me an insight into the engineering marvel that it actually is.

Getting Crafty

As I headed back from the fort to my next destination, I was lucky to spot a pair of elusive painted spurfowl, known to be sighted at this National Park. Elated, I headed to Dastkar Ranthambore for some local shopping. Started in 1989, this organisation was set up to help the displaced local communities, especially the women, to create an income generation programme. Over the course of time, this has become a centre that showcases the best craft of the region, from patchwork cushions, quilts, lacquer bangles, decorative chuinli potholders, bandhini, pomcha, namda rugs and black stone pottery. In fact, you can see the women working outside the store and interact with them. The place is a fine example of how design intervention can bridge the gap between traditional skills and mainstream markets making craft more competitive.

Peacocks kept eating berries without paying any attention to who was looking on

As I returned with some shopping bags, I was in for a treat, as I was given a lesson in astronomy by Garima Kashyap of Stardust Observatory. “It is the lunar occultation of Saturn tonight,” she told me and regaled me with stories of stars and constellations. As I looked at Saturn with its rings through her GSO 12” Professional Dobsonian Telescope with a 30mm eyepiece, I couldn’t help but feel that this trip to Ranthambore has been a very fulfilling experience.