There’s a peculiar thrill in stepping off the touristy tracks and diving into the countryside of an European nation. On such a sojourn in the Czech Republic, I discovered Detenice, Hradec Králové and Jíčín — places that blend fairy tale-like architecture, rugged natural beauty and a medieval spirit that’s deliciously alive beside modernism.

Jíčín: A gateway to Bohemian adventures

Prachov Rocks, a labyrinth of sandstone formations that rise like sentinels Chandreyi Bandyopadhyay

The adventure began in Jíčín, a town that feels as if it’s been conjured from a fantasy novel. Strolling into the Old Town square, the cobblestones whisper tales of its rich royal history. The dominant Valdice Gate towered above me as a reminder of the town’s ‘Renaissance’ roots. Below it, the empty square radiated charm with pastel-colored Burgher houses flanking the sides. The population is quite small here.

Nearby, the Church of St. James the Greater stands with its baroque interior as an ode to artistry and devotion. The aroma of freshly baked trdelník (local chimney cake) lured me to a small bakery to savour the caramelized treat watching the sun cast its magical setting glow — its cinnamon warmth an antidote to the crisp spring air.

Trotsky Castle, perched atop a volcanic hill Chandreyi Bandyopadhyay

Consider a day hike to the Prachov Rocks and Trotsky Castle, the former a labyrinth of sandstone formations that rise like sentinels guarding an ancient secret, and the latter a strange castle perched atop a volcanic hill. Climbing to the viewpoints rewards one with sweeping vistas of forests and linseed fields, reminding me of the DDLJ trope. The wind carried a hint of pine and adventure, making it impossible not to feel connected to this ancient landscape.

The Detenice castle is the village’s crown jewel Chandreyi Bandyopadhyay

Entering Detenice, a small village with outsized charisma, is intriguing. The Baroque castle here is its crown jewel, although it is more a chateau than castle. The facade, a canvas of pale yellow and cream, contrasted beautifully with the emerald-green grounds. Inside, opulent halls were adorned with elaborate frescoes, antique furniture, and crystal chandeliers that whispered tales of noble intrigue. But Detenice’s real enchantment begins post sundown.

A dreamy setting inside the castle Chandreyi Bandyopadhyay

I headed to the famed Medieval Brewery for a pint of history. The air was thick with the malty aroma of beer brewed using centuries-old methods. As I sipped on the rich, unfiltered lager, a burly server regaled the tales of knights and alchemists who had once roamed these lands. The evening crescendoed at the medieval dinner show held in a cave-like tavern lit only by flickering torches. Performers dressed in period costumes juggled fire and executed gravity-defying tricks. The atmosphere was electric with laughter, cheers, and the clang of goblets. Plates piled high with roasted meats, fresh bread, and tangy cheeses were passed around, and the walls seemed to echo with the ghosts of centuries past.

A room at the at the Středověký Hotel Středověký Hotel

The stay at the Středověký Hotel was the perfect conclusion to this journey through time. The hotel, with a simple appearance, packs a medieval punch inside. Designed to transport guests to the Middle Ages, the corridors were equal parts eerie and enchanting. My room had stone walls, a simple bed, lamp lit washroom and a big civet like animal, dead and stuffed, adorning the wall atop the bed. As the night deepened, the hotel revealed its spine-tingling side. The creaking floorboards and distant whispers felt almost otherworldly. Yet, any unease melted away when I joined a group of locals in the hotel’s rustic tavern. We gathered around a wooden table by the fire, sharing stories over glasses of local wine. Martin Soukup, my host, graciously offered to translate for me to the rest of the group. The warmth of their hospitality and the camaraderie we found that night turned strangers into kindred spirits.

Hradec Králové, a city that marries its gothic past with modern elegance Shutterstock

My final stop was Hradec Králové, a city that marries its gothic past with modern elegance. The Cathedral of the Holy Spirit, with its twin spires piercing the sky, exuded timeless majesty, while a stroll by the Elbe revealed the functionalist charm of the old electric factory. This industrial marvel, a testament to early 20th-century ingenuity, now houses cultural events that resonate with modern vitality. Nearby, the White Tower offered panoramic views of the city’s red-tiled roofs and the winding Elbe River, its reflections shimmering with history. The East Bohemian Museum, an architectural gem designed by famous architect Jan Kotěra, added another layer of fascination with its exhibits spanning art, archaeology and regional history.

As I returned carrying memories of fiery performances, sandstone mazes, and medieval feasts — my hedonistic pursuits were rewarded well. This Bohemian paradise had proven to be a portal to another era, where the past felt tantalisingly close, and every experience was laced with wonder. For those willing to wander off the beaten path, this corner of the Czech Republic promises an adventure as unique as it is unforgettable.