The medieval citadel of Bidar located on the northeast corner of Karnataka and next to the Telangana border is known for its massive fort but Bidar has something more to offer to history lovers. Madrasas, mosques, minars, gateways and a couple of royal tomb complexes make Bidar an ideal day or overnight destination from Hyderabad (150 km away).
Mahmud Gawan Madrasa
The Mahmud Gawan Madrasa
This is located about a kilometre south of the fort. The madrasa gets its name from Mahmud Gawan, the prime minister of Bahamani sultanate from 1458 till his death in 1881. The madrasa came up in 1472 and has a Persian influence. It was once home to more than 1,000 students and its well stacked library housed more than 3,000 books. Once two lofty minars welcomed visitors into the madrasa. Sadly, one of the minars and a large section of the building has long collapsed but whatever remains is still grand. The minar on the northeast corner still stands and traces of the fresco that once covered the outer walls can still be seen.
Timing: 9 am – 5 pm
Entry: Free
Chaubara
The Chowbara, the watch tower turned clock tower
Located less than 500 metres south of the Mahumad Gawan Madrasa, this tower-like structure stands on a traffic island. The chaubara literally translates into ‘facing four directions’. Nothing much is known about the history of the structure but it quite likely served as a watch tower. Today, a battery operated clock with four dials is placed on top of the tower, which turns out to be a total mismatch.
Timing: 24 hrs
Entry: Free
Barid Shahi Tombs (South)
Barid Shahi Tomb Complex
In the late 15th century, the Barid Shahi dynasty took control of Bidar and the dynasty continued till the early 17th century. The Barid Shahi rulers were laid to rest in magnificent tombs with bulbous domes. The tomb complex is divided into two parts with the southern section lying next to the Bidar main bus stand. This section contains two tombs belonging to Ali Barid and his son, Ibrahim Barid. Both the tombs consist of similar hollow structures topped with gigantic domes. The only difference is in size and the son’s tomb is slightly smaller. Behind Ali Barid’s tomb stands a small but elegant mosque with beautiful floral ornamentations on its outer wall.
Timing: 6 am – 7 pm
Entry: Free
Barid Shahi Tomb (North)
Barid Shahi Tomb Complex
The second complex lies on the opposite side of the road. It is smaller but much more elaborate. The complex houses five domed tombs along with a ruined tomb and a few other structures. Among the tombs lies the tomb of Qasim Barid and Qasim Barid II. There is also a tomb dedicated to someone known as Chand Sultan.
Timing: Monday – Saturday: 6 – 8 am and 4 – 8 pm,
Sundays and Holidays: Open all day
Entry: 6 – 8 am, free; 4 – 8 pm, Rs 10
Chaukhandi
Tomb of Khalil-Ullah
Chaukhandi refers to the tomb of Khalil-Ullah, spiritual advisor of Bahamani sultan Ahmed Shah Wali I (reign: 1422 – 36). It is located 4km east of the Bidar Fort. The gigantic octagonal tomb stands on a high plinth and has a domed extension on the southeastern side. Intricate calligraphy and stone work above the arched doorways make the tomb unique. The complex also has a few other structures, including a stepwell.
Timing: 9 am – 5 pm
Entry: Free
Bahmani Tombs
Tomb Complex with the tomb of Alauddin Shah in foreground
This is located about 500 metres east of Chaukhandi and houses the magnificent tombs of the Bahmani dynasty. It is similar to the Barid Shahi (North) complex but the tombs are not only larger but are also more in number. There are a total of 12 tombs inside the complex. They not only vary in sizes but also in shapes. The tomb that stands out is the partially collapsed tomb of Sultan Humayun Shah (1458 – 61). To the east of it lies the tomb of Alluadin Shah (reign: 1436 – 58). It is known for its elaborate fresco work — only traces of it remain to this day. Two of the tombs are in complete ruins and the complex also has a mosque on the western end. It is interesting to note that these Islamic tombs are worshiped by local Hindus who light candles, offer prayers and even do the parikrama around the tombs.
Timing: 9 am – 5 pm
Entry: Free
Gateways
One of the few surviving gateways of Bidar
Bidar was a citadel and had a fortified wall and only a small fraction of it has survived the test of time along with a few gateways. The gateways consist of arched passageways complete with guard houses and topped with battlements. Sadly, the gates no longer welcome royal guests on elephants but are replaced with the chaotic traffic of Bidar.
Timing: 24 hrs
Entry: Free
Travel details:
Another view of Khalil-Ullah's tomb
Getting there: Bidar is well-connected with Hyderabad (150km, 4hr away) by road and rail. Buses are available from MG Bus Stop in Hyderabad. Fare – Rs 210
Places to stay: There are several hotels of different budgets near the bus stand
Places to eat: The bus stand area has several eateries serving all sorts of veg and non-veg food
Getting around: Autos are the best options. There are no fixed rates, so bargain
Photography: Allowed at all places
