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Via Calcutta, the eatery popularising Kolkata-style street food in Mumbai

Their two outlets are the go-to spots for anyone in Mumbai seeking a taste of Kolkata’s delectable street fare

Lygeia Gomes Published 04.04.22, 06:24 PM
(L-R) Kolkata-style ghugni, soda shikanji and jhalmuri from Via Calcutta

(L-R) Kolkata-style ghugni, soda shikanji and jhalmuri from Via Calcutta

There’s something about Kolkata’s street food that calls out to locals and expats alike — be it the unostentatious kathi roll, phuchka or momos.

And Kolkata’s street food has found takers across the country. In Mumbai, it is Via Calcutta, a quick-service restaurant (QSR) whipping up the most delectable Kolkata-style street fare.

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Run by father-son duo Anil Kumar and Vivek Kanodia, Via Calcutta has been vitalising Mumbai’s taste buds with Kolkata-style street snacks since 2016. “Ours is a family of foodies. We love Kolkata’s street food. We used to reside in Kolkata’s Theatre Road for decades before shifting to Mumbai in 2010. When we moved to Mumbai, we craved Kolkata’s street food and we decided to make it ourselves. And that’s how Via Calcutta began,” says Vivek, a Birla High School alum.

Anil Kumar and Vivek Kanodia

Anil Kumar and Vivek Kanodia

Via Calcutta’s (previously known as Chaat Stories) journey began with food pop-ups. Today, only six years later, Via Calcutta has served some of the biggest names in the country — from ministers and Bollywood stars to celebrated athletes.

Via Calcutta’s menu features most things one imagines while thinking of Kolkata street food — phuchkas, jhalmuri, ghugni, moong dal chilla, soda shikanji, sabji kachouri, moong dal vada and samosas. “The moment Kolkata’s street food evolves, our menu will too!” says Vivek. Kathi rolls don’t exist on the menu yet because the joint is 100% vegetarian, but soon vegetarian rolls and dhaba-style food will be incorporated into the line-up.

Phuchkas at Via Calcutta

Phuchkas at Via Calcutta

Via Calcutta’s official taster, Anil Kumar, makes sure that every bite and every spoonful mirrors the authentic flavours of Kolkata’s street food. “When I check the quality of our food, I look for three things — the right colour, smell and flavour. The 50 years I spent in Kolkata has helped me understand the city’s tastes,” says the 59-year-old.

Puri in puri phuchka, a specialty of Via Calcutta

Puri in puri phuchka, a specialty of Via Calcutta

Via Calcutta has two outlets in Mumbai — one in Powai and another on Carter Road — and delivers through food aggregators. They also cater to parties and large gatherings.

“One of our biggest accomplishments was serving the Prime Minister of India. We are really happy we’ve accomplished that,” smile the father-son duo.

So, what really is the secret to recreating Kolkata’s authentic local fare in Mumbai?

“It lies in the ingredients and our chefs,” they say.

While setting up Via Calcutta, Vivek scouted the length and breadth of Kolkata for the best street-food hawkers and brought them with him to Mumbai. “I knew that if I wanted to re-create street food that’s available in Kolkata, I needed experienced people on my team. And who better than those who have been on the job for years and are well acquainted with the flavour? Everyone on my 30-member team is from Kolkata. That’s how we get our taste spot on!” reveals Vivek.

Bhelpuri

Bhelpuri

Additionally, each and every ingredient (apart from the fresh vegetables) is procured from Kolkata. Even the muri, which can be challenging to ship, is sourced from Kolkata. “This is an essential component of our business because it helps us maintain the flavour,” explains Anil Kumar.

So, if you’re in Mumbai and craving Dilip da’s phuchka from Vivekananda Park or Chhangani’s club kachori, you know where to look!

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