Perched amidst the verdant hills of the Himalayas, Landour is a picturesque hill station right next to its busier cousin, Mussoorie. This quaint town, once a popular summer retreat for the British Raj, has retained its colonial charm, offering a unique blend of history and nature. Lined with deodar trees and British-styled cottages, with the majestic Himalayas as a backdrop, Landour is a favourite among travellers looking to be one with nature. From birdwatching in the deodar forests to sipping hot coffee at quaint cafes and a chance meeting with Ruskin Bond, Landour checks many boxes. And, if you are the kind who loves to stand and stare, there is a lot to see.
Hotspot for birdwatchers
A Himalayan goldenback woodpecker Shutterstock
Home to over 150 species of birds, Landour is a paradise for birdwatchers. From the vibrant Himalayan Bulbul to the dainty Maroon Oriole, the forests of Landour are teeming with avian life.
Be greeted by the chirps, whistles, and songs of these beauties as you walk around Char Dukaan, Lal Tibba, and Sister’s Bazaar. Keep your eyes peeled for the vibrant Himalayan Bulbul, the elusive Rufous-breasted Accentor, and the majestic Himalayan Griffon Vulture. Nag Tibba offers beautiful birding trails, too, with the Spot-winged Grosbeak as the showstopper. The deodar forests, in particular, are a hotspot for birdwatchers, offering sightings of the colourful Green-backed Tit, the elusive Yellow-browed Warbler, and the majestic Himalayan Woodpecker.
Stroll around the Chukker Trail
Landour is best explored on foot — meandering along its winding roads and charming trails Shutterstock
The best way to truly experience Landour is on foot. Meander along its winding roads and charming trails, taking in the quiet beauty of this hill station. One of the most popular trails is the historic Chukker Trail. Named after the British officers who used it for polo practice, this three-kilometre walk offers stunning views of the surrounding hills and valleys. As you stroll along, you’ll pass quaint cottages, lush forests, and churches.
As you embark on this leisurely stroll, keep an eye out for the charming British-era cottages that dot the landscape, each with its own unique story. One of the highlights of the Chukker Trail is the picturesque Bhulloo Valley. It offers breathtaking views of the surrounding hills and valleys. You can also explore the nearby Bhulloo Garden, a serene spot to relax and enjoy the beauty of nature. For those seeking a bit of adventure, the trail leads to the Tip N Top viewpoint, offering panoramic views of the Doon Valley. It is a moderate trek and rewards you with stunning vistas. Remember to carry water and wear comfortable footwear.
For the wordsmiths — attend a writer’s workshop
The tranquil atmosphere of Landour provides the perfect setting for introspection and creativity Shutterstock
Landour has always been a muse for writers and artists. With literary legends like Ruskin Bond having called it their home, the town’s literary legacy is undeniable. And there’s no better way to experience it than attending a writers’ workshop. These workshops, often held in quaint cottages or historic buildings, offer a unique opportunity to connect with fellow writers, exchange ideas, and receive expert guidance. Whether you’re a budding novelist, a seasoned poet, or a non-fiction writer, you’ll find a workshop tailored to your needs. Spend your days honing your craft, learning new techniques, and receiving constructive feedback from experienced writers. In the evenings, gather with fellow writers for stimulating discussions, poetry readings, and book launches. The tranquil atmosphere of Landour provides the perfect setting for introspection and creativity.
Landour Writing Retreat regularly holds workshops with renowned publishers. Be sure to check their schedule and book your spot in advance, as these workshops often fill up quickly.
For the adventurous soul
About 20 minutes from Landour, Jabarkhet Nature Reserve is a hidden gem waiting to be explored. With eight trails winding through lush forests, past cascading waterfalls, and up to breathtaking viewpoints, this place is a hiker’s dream. Whether you’re a seasoned trekker or just starting out, there’s a trail for you. The easy trails are perfect for a stroll, while the more challenging ones will test your limits. You can walk around on your own exploring the flora and fauna of the region or take a guide who can help identify birds (over 150 species reside here), spot wildlife such as leopards, barking deer, black-naped hares and civet cats, amongst others; and over 300 varieties of flowers. Jabarkhet Nature Reserve also organises special walks with experts in birdwatching, butterflies, moths, and nature photography.
Spend ‘me-time’ at the cosy cafes
The famous Char Dukan area iStock
Relish a cup of decadent hot chocolate with scones at the Landour Bakehouse, a charming cafe right out of an Enid Blyton book. A bookcase, with books written by local authors, resides in a corner for you to read while you eat. Anil’s Cafe at Char Dukan is the local favourite. Don’t miss out on the chocolate Nutella pancakes and sinful cheese toasts there. Doma’s Inn is the perfect place to stop by for Tibetan classics like shaphaley and thukpa. They have a wide range of momos, too. Lotte’s Homebaked Goods & Cafe is a small restaurant run by a Dutch expat, Lotte Kapur, who whips up delicious Danish delicacies. The hand-roasted coffee here is a must-try. For a more elaborate and fine dining experience, have a meal at Emily’s at Rokeby Manor. They have an elaborate breakfast menu along with a fine selection of Continental and Indian delicacies.
Other highlights of Landour include The Landour Cemetery, the resting place of many British officers and their families and St Paul's Church, a 150-year-old church near Char Dukaan. Also, stop by Kellogg Memorial Church and Landour Language School for spectacular valley views and magnificent architecture.
The Kellogg Memorial Church Shutterstock
The essentials
How to get there: Jolly Grant Airport in Dehradun (64km)
Best time to travel: April to June to beat the summer heat, but for those who love the chill of winter, October to June is perfect.
Selct places to stay:
La Villa Bethany: Step back in time at this charming English cottage. With its six quaint rooms, La Villa Bethany offers a nostalgic experience.
Rokeby Manor: This heritage hotel, dating back to 1840, combines vintage charm with modern amenities. Choose from vintage-styled rooms, spacious suites, or private villas, all surrounded by breathtaking views of Doon Valley.
