“You were in the Army and you were shot near Shimla at the age of 60. You were shot in three places: your right arm, your left leg and in your abdomen area. Check, there will be three black dots in those areas.”
I checked and there were. "In this birth, you will live till the age of 92 years, 8 months and 21 days.”
At the Aman, Thimphu, among the several spiritual experiences, one is a consultation with the Royal Astrologer. He scrapes at sand in a box and scrapes away at milestones in your life that you are unaware of. Then, of course, there are the songs of the nun that play through the entire property imparting a calculable calm to the entire experience.
Spirituality and wellness are the wheels on which the Aman in Bhutan moves along. Prayer beads are left on your bed at night for you to sleep over. On other days, there are symbols of peace and prosperity. Warm wishes serve as nice closing remarks to cold days in Bhutan.
Here, I was very keen on the Grounding Massage ritual, a signature stroke of the spa there. The lady there is Phuntsho Wagmo, God’s own girl. The Ku Nye full body massage honours ancient Tibetan healing traditions to stimulate muscles while a subtler massage energizes the meridian system. The treatment incorporates massage along meridian lines, acupressure, kneading and deep-tissue techniques.
Expectedly, it leaves you most grounded and grinded. At The Aman, Paro, I was very keen on the Hot Stone Bath. The bath takes place in wooden baths burning with hot stones. Artemisia leaves are strewn all over the bath. The stones release minerals, the leaves have a meditative effect on you and there’s a bottle of apple cider just in case things heat up a tad too much.
Spicy yet stunning
Food is another feather in the Aman crown. At Thimphu, there are marvelous mushroom soups thick as the vegetation there. Alongside, kimchi tenderloin and some excellent duck serenade the taste buds. While at Paro, there is nothing that Chef Rupam cannot bring on to the table. Hell-bent on showcasing my culinary skills with Bhutanese food, I decided to take a culinary class and actually fed some hapless Taiwanese guests there. The Aman likes that. It likes guests participating in its practice. Chef Rupam decided to teach me how to make momos: not my strongest suit. I proceeded to cook, a Bhutanese Chicken Curry — Jasha Maru, which swims in simplicity and reeks of terrific taste. It is simple as is most Bhutanese cuisine including the Ema Datshi, a stunning symphony of local cheese, green chilies and tomatoes. Bhutanese food is spicy yet stunning. It ranks amongst my favourite cuisines.
Of course, a visit to Bhutan is incomplete without a visit to the farmer markets that dot its cities. Here one gets to find amazing dried mushrooms, fiery chili powder and of course the notoriously ferocious Dalley pickle which can total the strongest tongue. While at the market, I was also introduced to the voice of Ugay, a musical sensation whose song Bum Jarim is rocking all of Bhutan as we speak. It truly is wonderful.
Monk in prayer at Tiger’s Nest
Wondrous workand talent
Another reason why I decided to visit Bhutan was art. I am a huge fan of Bhutanese art and am amazed at the talent that abounds there. The Aman, Thimphu, for instance, has an entire gallery devoted to the works of the Twinz Artists who are the equivalent of Damien Hirst when Damien had seen better days.
The Twinz are twins who hum the same tune. The look alike, they think alike and they paint alike. They collaborate with each other on every work and it is not uncommon for one of them to start a piece of work and the other to complete it. Such harmony is harrowing at one level. And baffling at another. Bhutan is making great strides in the world of art and VAST as an organisation is at the helm of it all. I hope to put together an exhibition of all the talent that Bhutan has in the coming year. The world needs to see their wondrous work and talent.
(l-r) The spread at the Aman, Thimphu, The exterior of Punakha Dzong
Another view of Gangtey Lodge, Amankora
No trip in Bhutan is complete without a visit to the home of the former principal of Vasant Valley School, New Delhi, Arun Kapur who currently runs the University there with the blessings of His Majesty and some enormously talented people. Arun is also a magnet for mighty, young minds who are about 15 years of age and speak to you about astrophysics, biosciences and genomics. Bhutan is an island of incredible talent; I am amazed at the minds that it is moulding. It is certain to leave an indelible impact on Asia’s development. There is hunger there and there is genius. It is an impossible combination.
This was my fifth visit to Bhutan. A bit of my soul resides there. A bit of yours will be left behind once you visit it. Till kingdom come.
Swapan Seth worked in advertising. Blissfully unaware of what he works in now. Collects arts, books, music and thoughts. Lives is Naldhera in Himachal Pradesh. Chokes up in Gurgaon once a week to meet clients and bills. Write to him at
swapan@sethco.co.in.
Only, if you must.
Gangtey Lodge at Amankora, Bhutan Picture: Jerome Galland