Calcutta is this glorious, cigar-puffing bereted man in his swinging sixties, a first-rate jazz raconteur even in 2024 and it’s a sight. Live jazz had found itself lodged into the public lexicon, most likely with The House Where the Shutters Are Green (India’s first jazz recording), in 1926. In Calcutta, few clubs and cafes capture the vintage essence that jazz patrons of today can visit this summer...
1. Calcutta 64: The quaint jazz cafe in Jodhpur Park, Calcutta, shelters another era with black and white chequerboard tiles, glossy turn-of-the-century upholstered armchairs, ambient soft dimly lit room, carefully assorted eclectic furniture to chic art deco and jazz era style of a bygone era. It is the brainchild of the owners, Anjan Chatterjee and Priya Sen, where the timelessness of jazz merges with the cultural heritage of Calcutta. It is a haven for jazz enthusiasts and vinyl collectors alike, offering a unique blend of live music and curated records that capture the essence of this musical genre. The airy, breezy jazz and contemporary soul music is perfect to unwind after a long week. The musicians feed off the energy of the crowd, improvising and riffing off each other, creating a musical dialogue.
Location: 537 Jodhpur Park
2. TopCat CCU: Inaugurated in April 2019, the large capacity space has already hosted everything from metal to pop to jazz. Virtuosos like Plastic Parvati, Pulpy Shilpy, Tajdar Junaid, and metal maestros such as Gutslit and WhatEscapesMe have performed here. And don’t get us started on the experimental and groovy The Bodhisattwa Trio. But it’s not just the big names that make TopCat CCU special; it’s also the sense of community and camaraderie that pervades the venue. Here, musicians and music lovers come together to celebrate their love for jazz, creating a unique warm and welcoming atmosphere. So, whether you’re a seasoned jazz aficionado or someone looking to explore the genre for the first time, TopCat CCU is a must-visit destination in Calcutta. Come, discover the rhythms of Calcutta at TopCat CCU, and immerse yourself in the magic of jazz like never before.
Location: 36/F, Topsia Road
3. Sienna Store & Cafe: Each performance in this rustic chic cafe is an intimate dialogue between the artistes and the audience where the boundaries between the past and the present blur and every note professes the art of storytelling. The sultry voice of the vocalist, paired with the soulful riffs of the guitar, creates a mesmerizing ambiance that transports you to the smoky jazz clubs of New Orleans. The Sunday scene kicks off right from brunch with a live performance by the instrumental trio Dot Three. Their eclectic mix of genres and musicianship will set a relaxed yet lively atmosphere, providing the perfect backdrop to a leisurely Sunday brunch. Dot Three’s synergy and the skilful interplay between instruments create a rich soundscape that invites you to unwind and savour the weekend.
Location: 49, 1, Golpark, Hindustan Park, Gariahat
4. Skinny Mo’s Jazz Club: Located in a rather fittingly art deco building with a sleek black façade and minimalistic signage on Manoharpukur Road in South Calcutta, the jazz club has been tenderly restored into a jazz bar, and vinyl record store. On regular jamming sessions, the first notes of saxophone curl around the audience like tendrils of smoke. The air is thick with the scent of aged wood and the faint trace of bourbon and cigar smoke, remnants of a time when jazz was the lifeblood of the night, warm-toned vintage-style Edison bulbs or industrial pendant lights... the staircase reverberates with jazz indie, fusion, Afro beats, synth, nu-disco to world music. Weekends open the floor for visitors to explore the vinyl collection sipping on summer cocktails and beer from a sleek, modern countertop bar area.
Location: 91, Manohar Pukur Road, Manoharpukur, Kalighat
5. Trincas: In a city filled with colonial nostalgia, a resurgence of sorts is taking place, bringing class acts to the city and intertwining the city’s love affair with jazz. When it comes to jazz, one song can be played in many ways and yet, the soul of the song remains intact. Classic tunes have taken listeners to an era that’s long gone but never forgotten. If you fall into the category of a connoisseur, Trincas is the place for you. Indulge in delightful jazz lunches with Trincas’s Willie Walter’s Jazz Quartet every weekend from 1pm to 3pm.
Location: 17, Mother Teresa Sarani, near Oxford Book Store, Park Street
6. AMPM Kolkata: The artisanal coffee and cocktail bar on Park Street is straight out of Baz Luhrmann’s The Great Gatsby. The décor is a tribute to old English aesthetics, with dark wooden panels, plush leather seating, and glistening chandeliers casting a warm, inviting glow. Mukul Dongre, a virtuoso drummer known for his dynamic rhythms and intricate patterns, often performs with his ensemble, the Mukul Dongre Collective. Ron Cha, The Bodhisattwa Trio, The Milestone Project are some of the jazz artistes that grace the listening session weekends.
Location: Fifth floor, Park Center Building, 24, Mother Teresa Sarani, Park Street area