What’s the best way to explore a new destination? Phone a friend. We all have those warm, hospitable friends who keep inviting you to their neck of the woods and insisting that they will show you around. I’m that friend who always takes up such hospitable friends on their offers. From Berlin to Kuala Lumpur to Shillong, I’ve discovered destinations with insider tips from people who call these cities home. I had no idea what was in store when Paola picked me up from the Florence railway station. I told her that I have a day to explore Tuscany. I visualised wide-open skies, cypress-lined roads and the undulating countryside, but little did I realise that I would traverse the same paths as James Bond. I didn’t arrive in Siena in a battered Aston Martin DBS though.
A quantum of Siena
Italy features heavily in James Bond films, and Daniel Craig has traversed Italy like no Bond before him
If you’ve watched Quantum of Solace, then you’ve already been to one of the most important cities in medieval Europe. Fun fact – every single Daniel Craig Bond film (except for Skyfall) features locations from across Italy. From Lake Como in Casino Royale to Rome in Spectre to the hundreds of tiny grottoes that make up the town of Matera in southern Italy that featured in No Time to Die, Daniel Craig has traversed Italy like no Bond before him.
The heart of Tuscany
Piazza del Campo – ground zero in Siena Ashwin Rajagopalan
In 1995, the historic centre of Siena was added to the list of UNESCO world heritage sites. It’s here that some of the most thrilling scenes in Quantum of Solace were filmed. I arrived in Siena on August 14, just before the historic Palio di Siena, a horse race that dates back to 1633. The race takes place twice a year. The August 16 race is known as the Palio dell’Assunta in honour of the Assumption of Mary – one of the four Marian dogmas of the Catholic Church. The crowds had already started to build at the Piazza del Campo – ground zero in Siena. The locals also call this Il Campo (that translates to field in Italian)
At the centre of it all
A panoramic view of Piazza del Campo during the famous Palio di Siena Shutterstock
To call this one of Europe’s most imposing medieval squares is not an exaggeration. The Piazza del Campo is not just unique for its architectural integrity, but also it’s slight incline. It adds an extra element of drama to the famous Palio di Siena where jockeys ride bareback. The race involves three laps of the piazza and doesn’t usually last more than 90 seconds, it’s not just perfect for modern attention spans, but is packed with thrills. It’s not unusual for jockeys to be thrown off their horses; the horse does not require a rider to win the race. Daniel Craig doesn’t just crash into this race in Quantum of Solace, the film features a spectacular chase shot on the roofs and balconies around the old town.
The churches of Siena
The Duomo di Siena and the Basilica of San Domenico Shutterstock; Ashwin Rajagopalan
In 1939, Pope Pius XII named St. Catherine of Siena as a joint patron saint of Italy along with Francis of Assisi. The relic of this Italian saint is one of the most visited sites in Siena. It’s at the Basilica of San Domenico, that was my first stop in Siena. This basilica is an example of Cisterican Gothic style of architecture that dates back to the 12th century. But it’s the Duomo di Siena (Siena Cathedral) that is one of the most recognised and photographed landmarks of Siena. Completed in 1348, this massive Gothic building has been crafted with white stone and rose marble with stunning frescoes across the ceilings and walls.
Dessert cravings
A typical small café in Siena Shutterstock
Paola brought me to her favourite Pasticceria (pastry shop) that has been here way longer than the times she used to frequent it as a college student in Siena. Pasticceria Nannini Conca D’Oro has been pandering to Siena’s sweet cravings since 1900. It moved to its present location just off the main Piazza in the 1930s. The high ceilings, the marble floors and the massive chandeliers take you back to another time. Locals will tell you that Siena’s famous Ricciarelli (best described as a type of macaroon that originated in the 14th century) taste the same here for generations. That’s not the only thing you should try here. I packed a box of panforte, a quintessential Christmas delicacy from Siena that’s also known as panpepato (peppered bread), a unique spicy twist in a chewy Italian dessert packed with nuts and fruits.
The historic alleys of Siena Ashwin Rajagopalan
There are cities like Florence that might be packed with more tourist attractions but Siena’s charms stem from its 15th Century Street grid and historic square. This remains an exemplary medieval city, almost untouched by the passage of time and tourists who keep falling for its charms. As for me, I’m glad I phoned a friend!
