Some old-world comfort food or a rooftop view of the city — you can take a pick from YMCA’s two eateries depending on what you are in the mood for
YMCA is the oldest and one of the largest youth organisations in the world, originating in London in 1844. The first YMCA in India was started in Kolkata in 1857, growing to around 250 centres in India. My Kolkata checked out the food offerings at two centres in the city, the YMCA Canteen in College Square, known for Aurobinda da’s famous Chicken Stew and a newly-managed outlet at the YMCA building in Chowringhee. Here’s a taste of flavours old and new…
YMCA Canteen in College Square and its iconic Chicken Stew
The canteen is located at 53/5 College Street
If you have ever wondered what to eat while spending hours on College Street in search of your favourite novel, look no further than the Young Men’s Christian Association (YMCA) Canteen in College Square.
Adjacent to the YMCA swimming division office, the smell of a well-cooked chicken stew coming out of its canteen is known to make people stop in their tracks and try it out.
The story of this famous food stop started cooking at the sidelines of the All-India Postal Cricket Tournament played at the Kidderpore ground in 1982.
YMCA Canteen owner Aurobindo Patra said, “Back then, I had already gained experience by running canteens at the PG Medical College (Institute of Post Graduate Medical Education & Research) and the Medical College, Kolkata. In a chance interaction with then Secretary of YMCA Pranab Ghosh, the opportunity to run the YMCA eatery that overlooked the association’s swimming pool was offered to me.”
Aurobindo Patra with the canteen’s signature dish
Initially, Aurobindo da would make his rounds asking professors, teachers and students at the nearby Hindu College, Hindu School, and Hare School to dig into his Chicken Stew. Within a few years, tables turned in his favour as everyone started finding out the canteen’s exact location from the book stall owners and traffic constables in College Street, says Patra with a sense of pride.
A closer look at the chicken stew
On the preparation front, the man in his mid-60s said, “We keep it simple. Usually, we make all our dishes in bulk and this takes us close to an hour. The ingredients that go into the making of our pride, the Chicken Stew, includes beans, carrots, and a single piece of chicken.”
Foodies residing in Kolkata are also known to relish the Canteen’s Fried Rice and Chilli Chicken Platter and their Mutton Stew.
‘I am here with my colleague for the very first time and we both are in love with the food,' said customer Subhonkar Chatterjee (right)
Professors, teachers, children, and medical representatives are regulars at this humble establishment. “I am here with my colleague for the very first time, and we both are in love with the Canteen's food. The food options to choose from are quite attractive,” said medical representative Subhonkar Chatterjee while munching on a plate of Mutton Stew.
Seacom Heritage Court Cafe at YMCA Chowringhee
The YMCA heritage building at 25A, Jawaharlal Nehru Road, houses a hideout cafe
Not too far away, the YMCA heritage building at 25A, Jawaharlal Nehru Road, next to Bible Society of India, houses a hideout cafe.
An old staircase within the 178-year-old edifice leads to the first floor that has a badminton court open to members-only, office rooms and an indoor cafe with an open-air extension for walk-ins.
The building’s old staircase and a plaque about the YMCA
Called the Seacom Heritage Court Cafe, the dining facilities were taken charge of by the hospitality wing of eastern India’s Seacom Group in December 2022. The group has been running 23 rooms inside the YMCA premises for the last eight years.
The food, ambience and cleanliness have much room for improvement but the rooftop extension offers the same splendid view of Chowringhee that The Oberoi Grand does.
The view from the cafe’s rooftop extension
The indoor zone of the cafe resembles a majestic living room, pushing you back into the colonial past of the eastern metropolis through the grandeur of high ceilings, old-school sofa sitting with wooden tables, and low hanging fans.
Visitors can trace the movement of the western art timeline from Renaissance to Romanticism through replicas of iconic paintings that adorn the walls
While time seems to stand still at the place, the menu takes you right back to the present day, where sandwiches, coffee, and combo meals thrive.
“For the first-timers, we recommend Prawn Pops, Fish Fingers and the Indian Chicken Combo – salad, rice/roti, chicken masala and dessert,” says Manas Mukul Saha, manager at Seacom Heritage Court Cafe.
Fish Fingers and (right) the rooftop ambience
Open from 10am to 10pm, one can try the combo meals, Grilled Chicken Sandwich, Drums of Heaven or Assorted Veg Pakora without spending more than Rs 400. However, when we visited the cafe in the second week of January, the cold beverages section of the menu was not available.
The 23 rooms within the YMCA building, tagged at Rs 2,500 for a double bedroom, and Rs 3,000 plus tax for a triple bedroom per night, are usually occupied by international tourists. “We used to receive tourists from Japan and China pre-COVID. Now, we mostly receive guests from Bangladesh,” said an employee of Seacom.
