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‘It’s a Kind of Magic’: Following in the footsteps of Chaplin and Queen in Montreux

Spending 24 hours in this picture-perfect town, nestled amidst the Swiss Alps, is pure bliss

Ashwin Rajagopalan Published 09.12.22, 06:28 PM
A glimpse of Montreux in Switzerland

A glimpse of Montreux in Switzerland Photos: Ashwin Rajagopalan

“If you want some peace of mind, come to Montreux”. This is not a caption for one of Switzerland’s many picture-perfect towns, but a line that British singer-songwriter Freddie Mercury often used to describe Montreux. He fell in love with this town during his first visit in the 1970s. He didn’t just keep coming back; Queen recorded six albums in Montreux. I experienced the same love at first sight from the balcony of my room at the historic Fairmont Le Montreux Palace that overlooks Lake Geneva. It reminded me of Freddie’s lyrics in one of the last songs (A Winter’s Tale) he wrote — “There’s a kind of magic in the air. What a truly magnificent view. A breath-taking scene. Am I dreaming?

It was one of the popular singles from Made in Heaven that released in 1995, four years after his death. My own Winter’s Tale took me through Montreux and Vevey, as well as a memorable train journey, all in 24 hours.

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The Swiss rail system isn’t just one of the world’s most efficient, but also offers sweeping panoramas

The Swiss rail system isn’t just one of the world’s most efficient, but also offers sweeping panoramas

If there’s one thing that keeps bringing me back to Switzerland (most of us can count more than one reason) it’s the train experiences. The Swiss rail system isn’t just one of the world’s most efficient and dense but also offers sweeping panoramas. A Swiss Pass allows you unlimited rides (aside from free access to a long list of museums). I got a sneak peek of the Golden Express that launches in the second week of December. This train with panoramic windows connects Interlaken with Montreux. The new prestige class offers unique 180-degree seats allowing you to always be in the direction of travel.

It’s a kind of magic

The statue of Freddie Mercury in Montreux

The statue of Freddie Mercury in Montreux

You can’t escape Queen legends in Monteux. Most Queen trails start at the iconic Freddie Mercury statue on the edge of Lake Geneva, where fans from across the world continue to stream in with flowers to this day. It’s been just over 25 years since this statue was commissioned. I’d also suggest a thirty-minute stopover at ‘Queen – The Studio Experience’, that’s just five-minute walk from the statue. It’s at the Casino Barrière de Montreux, home to the legendary 'Mountain Studios' which has seen a parade of artistes such as David Bowie, The Rolling Stones or Queen walk through its doors.

Modern times

Sir Charles Spencer Chaplin spent the last 25 years of his life in Manoir de Ban with unobstructed views of the Lake Geneva

Sir Charles Spencer Chaplin spent the last 25 years of his life in Manoir de Ban with unobstructed views of the Lake Geneva

Next to Montreux is Vevey, a charming town where milk chocolate was first invented in 1875 (It’s home to Nestle). Long after that discovery changed the way we appreciate chocolate, Vevey was discovered by a modern genius – Sir Charles Spencer Chaplin. He spent the last 25 years of his life in Manoir de Ban with unobstructed views of the Lake Geneva (aka Lac Léman). His mansion and 14-hectare park have now morphed into Chaplin’s World that opened to the public in 2016. The studio experience assembles a series of installations that make you part of Chaplin’s cinematic journey through the decades. The world might have changed since Chaplin’s Modern Times, but many of the issues that Chaplin spoke up for continue to affect us to this day. It’s an entertainment experience that Charlie Chaplin would be proud of.

’Tis the season to be merry

Montreux Noël is the second-largest Christmas market in Switzerland

Montreux Noël is the second-largest Christmas market in Switzerland

Christmas Markets have long remained a popular magnet for tourists and a quintessential Swiss tradition. My favourite Christmas market is the one in Zurich, but Montreux comes pretty close. Montreux Noël is the second-largest Christmas market in Switzerland. The wooden stalls are idyllically set up on the lakeshore with fairy lights. There’s everything — from Christmas decorations, clothes, crafts to jewellery in the mix. It was the perfect finale for my short trip to Montreux. As I sipped on a warm glass of mulled wine with views of the Lake Geneva (the 13-km trail along the lake offers multiple vantage points) Queen’s “It’s a Kind of Magic’ started playing all over again in my head

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