My first visit to Bekal was on an impulse. An impromptu late-night drive from Mangaluru that took us past the backwaters to one of the isolated beaches. I’ll leave out the details of that trip with my school buddies for obvious reasons. My recent trip was a complete contrast. A journey through the northern tip of Kerala that took me through calm waters, stunning sunsets and Kerala’s largest fort; all from the lap of luxury.
A sunset at Bekal’s Kappil Beach Ashwin Rajagopalan
It was Mani Ratnam’s Bombay that probably put Bekal in the national spotlight for the first time. Rajeev Menon’s stunning camera work remains one of the best adverts for the Bekal fort, made famous in the song Uyire/Tu hi re. It predated the establishment of the Bekal Resorts Development Corporation Ltd in 1995 to promote this undiscovered gem that’s under two hours from the Mangaluru airport. The Taj Bekal Resort & Spa was one of the first luxury hotels that offered the perfect luxury abode to explore Bekal and it’s where my Bekal adventure began.
Ketuvallam, Balinese-style
The Taj Bekal Resort & Spa by night Courtesy Taj Bekal Resort & Spa
It’s truly the best of two worlds. You know you’re in Kerala and yet there’s a very distinct Balinese vibe about the Taj Bekal Resort & Spa that’s located along the scenic Kappil Beach area. There are just 75 laterite villas and rooms spread over a 26 acre-footprint. It’s easy to find your zen moment either at the spa, or with a splendid sunset or on a moonlight raft ride that slowly scythes through the resort’s private stretch of backwaters.
The private stretch of backwater at Taj Bekal Courtesy Taj Bekal Resort & Spa
The resort’s villas take design cues from Kerala’s Kettuvallam houseboats. The resort also stages a Kerala sadya — Kerala’s popular festive banana leaf meal and just what you need before an afternoon siesta in your villa. I opted to work off those calories with a walk through the resort with one of their in-house naturalists to look for kingfishers and purple herons. One of my favourite experiences at the resort was dinner at the ocean-facing restaurant ‘By the Bay’ where the region’s fresh catch of the day graces your plate.
Travel back in time
Bekal’s most iconic landmark — Bekal fort
It’s easy to spend your entire holiday within the confines of the Taj Bekal, but it didn’t take long for my itchy feet to kick in. An early morning cycling trail (a 16-km round trip) took me to Bekal’s most iconic landmark — Bekal fort. According to Kanna writer Rama Nayak, the name Bekal comes from Baliakulam, meaning big palace. It is believed that a big palace existed in the region before the Bekal Fort was built in 1650 by Shivappa Nayaka. From Balaikulam it became Bekulam and finally Bekal. The town’s location on the Malabar coast made it a strategic location and the fort changed many hands including passing to the Vijayanagar Empire, Tipu Sultan and finally the British, by the end of the 18th century. Spread over 40 acres, this unique key-hole shaped fort is not just the largest in Kerala but also its best-preserved fort. It’s unfortunate that another 17th-century fort nearby, the Chandragiri Fort, is not in immaculate shape.
Kerala’s largest fort
The views of the Arabian Sea from Bekal Fort are its biggest attraction
A walk around the Bekal fort allows you to relive Rajeev Menon’s visuals with the waves constantly lashing against the walls. While the beach is accessible, locals will tell you that the rough waves make it unsafe even for expert swimmers. I reached the fort around 8am, which is when it opens for visitors. If you’re not planning to cycle, you can also head there just before sunset for a completely different perspective.
‘Tu hi re’ vibes at Bekal Fort
You won’t find any palace or mansion within the confines of the fort. Unlike most Indian forts, the Bekal fort was not a centre of administration but was built as a defence fortress. You will notice holes at different levels that were meant for targets at different distances. It’s Bekal’s views of the Arabian Sea that make it one of India’s most scenic seaside forts.
Beyond Bekal
Ananthapura Lake Temple (Shree Ananthapadmanabha Swamy Temple) in Kasargod
Bekal is about half hour away from Kasargod, one of the biggest towns in northern Kerala. I’d suggest reserving a day to explore popular landmarks like the Ananthapura Lake Temple (Shree Ananthapadmanabha Swamy Temple), which stands — true to its name — in the middle of a lake. Kasargod is also home to the historic Malik Dinar Mosque.
Malik Dinar Mosque.
I spent a morning at the Thonikadavu farm, where the owner takes you through the large family estate with its own waterfall. I’d also recommend a sunset boat cruise through the Valiyaparamba backwaters. These waters are less cluttered than the peak hour boat traffic along Kerala’s most popular backwaters around Kumarakom and Alappuzha (Allepey).
That’s the thing with Bekal, its location away from tourism hotspots in Kerala makes it more pristine. Get there before the rest of the world does.
