There was a time in the past when Bengali families settled at Kolkata used to visit their country houses, or ‘desher bari’, whenever they got a holiday. That practice now is only prevalent for a handful, as most families have either sold their country houses, or only visit during specific occasions like Durga Puja.
However, that craving for visiting their country house remains in the mindset of many Bengali families, who do not have access to such opulence. In the present day, when almost everything can be customised, readymade country houses are coming into existence with all the old-world charm. Instead of selling off or neglecting their countryside property, descendants of many zamindar families with entrepreneur mindsets are throwing open these mansions for the general public to visit and stay. The “Baithak Khana” of the Chaudhuri family at Amadpur in Purba Bardhaman district is such a customised country house, and is the brainchild of one of the family members, Shiladitya Chaudhuri.
The ‘Baithak Khana’ of the Chaudhuri family at Amadpur, behind two temples
Amadpur itself is a scenic and quaint village. Open fields, abundant date, mango and palm trees and numerous waterbodies, along with some age-old mansions and terracotta temples, give the visitor a feeling of nostalgic homecoming. The village life is simple and taking a stroll is very relaxing.
Most of the old mansions of Amadpur are in a dilapidated state. Their owners, who were once wealthy landlords of the place, have left Amadpur for the city life. The Chaudhuri family is an exception. Originally having the surname of Sen Sharma, the main family originated from Tehatta. The present lineage of the family at Amadpur traced its origin to Sribatsa Sen Sharma, who migrated to the Kingdom of Gour (presently in Malda district) sometime between the 11th to 12th centuries.
Keeping their roots intact
One of the descendants of this lineage, Shri Krishna Ram Sen Sharma, was bestowed with the title of ‘Chaudhuri’ after he obtained the Zamindari of Amadpur, along with areas in Burdwan and Hooghly district by the Mughal emperor. They settled at Amadpur in 1600. Though in later times a large number of their descendants moved to Kolkata, their connection with their roots was intact. Festivals like Durga Puja, Kali Puja, Dol Yatra and Ratha Yatra were celebrated in the mansion and family members gathered during Durga Puja. Kali Puja is also a gala festival in the village, which has several Kali temples.
Since the major portion of the house remains closed throughout the year apart from festivals, Shiladitya converted a portion of the residence into a heritage home stay. The three-storied mansion with a terrace very much resembles an old country house, or desher bari, from its red-tiled floors to spacious rooms. There are three terracotta-studded, brick-built Aatchala temples and a Dolmancha near the entrance of the house. The mansion overlooks a pond, where one can get busy fishing.
Fishing in the waterbody adjacent to the ‘Baithak Khana’
As one enters the mansion, crossing the dining hall, there is a hall filled with old wooden furniture, ideal for an evening adda session with tea and snacks. A narrow staircase takes you to the top floors. Apart from the double-bedded rooms, there is a family block accompanied with a sitting area and a terrace overlooking the waterbody. There are 10 rooms in all and many of their windows open on the pond side.
The huge wooden doors and shutter windows, high ceilings and thick walls, and antique wooden beds remind one of a bygone era. The rooms are cool, spacious, airy and now have the modern convenience of air conditioning.
Interiors of the ‘Baithak Khana’ Subrata Ghose
The Chaudhuris have several other mansions in the vicinity and a well-maintained Durga Dalan, where Durga Puja takes place every year with pomp and show. The arati performed in the nearby Anandamoyee Kali temple is a must visit in the evening. Close to the Baithak Khana is the 1739-built terracotta-studded Aatchala Radha Madhav Temple of the Chaudhuri family, which houses their family deity. Except for its pillars and base panels, much of the terracotta work is obscured because of a modern-built Natmandir. The deity is carried to the Dolmancha near the heritage homestay during Dol Utsav.
The nearby Anandamoyee Kali temple
Amadpur is ideal for leisurely walk in the morning as well as the afternoons. A path though bamboo groves takes you to a waterbody, as a flock of geese rushes past and curious school-going children look on.
One of the many desolate and scenic walking areas in Amadpur village
Walking past mango gardens and banana trees, the visitor can stop at a ruined Aatchala terracotta temple. There are several such temples in Amadpur. One belongs to the Nandi family, which is abandoned and in a dilapidated state, but boasts of some of the best terracotta panels at Amadpur. The other temples, belonging to Nath, Banerjee and other families, have all seen fresh coats of paints at some of point, which has reduced the prominence of the terracotta work on their walls to a great extent.
Terracotta panels on the walls on the Nandi family temple
The other age-old mansions of Amadpur are also a treat to see. Unfortunately, in recent times, the most sought-after old mansion of Amadpur – The Bagh Mansion – has seen a distasteful paint job, which has robbed it of its character — which was the only pride it had. No one knows for certain who it belongs to now. Once, the Mukherjee family owned it, though there is no clue where they are located at present. If the Chaudhuri familiy’s Baithak Khana stands as an example of heritage preservation at Amadpur, this one is the opposite.
One of the other relatively well-maintained country houses at Amadpur
The food served at the Amadpur Baithak Khana is another attraction. After a sumptuous breakfast and lunch, which often ends with locally made curd, an afternoon nap with the breeze from large-old-fashioned ceiling fans above and only the sounds of nature to listen to, slipping into a lethargic mood comes naturally. It becomes so addictive in just one day that you simply do not want to return back to the urban world.
How to go and where to stay
- Amadpur is less than 100km north-west of Kolkata.
- One can take the Durgapur Expressway and then take a right turn from Masagram to reach Memari.
- Cross the railway crossing near Memari Railway Station and drive north past Anandam Cinema Hall till you reach Amadpur Girls High School. The Baithak Khana is just two right turns from this place.
- Alternatively, one can reach Memari by local train and hire a toto to reach the heritage homestay.
- The Baithak Khana of Chaudhuri family is the only accommodation available. One can stroll around the village on foot and discover things on their own or hire a toto whose driver acts a local guide.
- For booking and queries please visit https://www.heritageamadpur.com/
Amitabha Gupta is a travel writer and a photographer who specialises in heritage and history of West Bengal. His work has been featured in many magazines and newspapers — both online and offline. He also conducts heritage walks and tours in and around Kolkata.