Luxe. Regal. Opulent. Signature JJ Valaya that the fashion world has been a witness to for decades. The same aesthetics have now been translated to the big screen in a prestigious partnership with celebrated costume designer Ruth E. Carter for the blockbuster Black Panther: Wakanda Forever, who has films like Black Panther and Dolemite Is My Name to her credit. Ruth bagged the Academy Awards for Black Panther in 2019, ‘the first African American woman to win in the category’.
We caught up with JJ Valaya to know more about the collaboration.
Is this the first film that you have done?
No, I mean, people keep taking clothes for certain instances for Indian movies, but in Hollywood, this is my second collaboration with Ruth Carter, the first being for Coming 2 America, which was a couple of years back, an Eddie Murphy starrer. This is the big one and if all goes well, we’ll be working on a third film also very soon.
So, the association with Ruth Carter goes back in time?
Yes, she discovered us and reached out to us a few years back because what she had in mind, she felt we were aligned to that sort of look and feel and even though this was out of my comfort zone, the kind of clothes that are done for Hollywood... I mean they don’t do saris, lehngas and blouses... they do things which are very different.... The first movie went off really well. More than anything else, our equation is very good. She is extremely humble and highly respectful and for me, whenever I am working on something, the energies have to be very good. So, she and I got along very well and what we created together was fantastic. In the second movie, when she thought of the queen, she thought of us. So, here we are.
This is the law of the universe. Sometimes energies just connect from across the planet, but yet culminate into something really wonderful. Very special.
Ruth E. Carter and JJ Valaya
How many costumes did you make?
We made nearly 13 or 14 outfits in all, out of which 10 were for Queen Ramonda (Angela Bassett) and there are four-five for other characters also which are there across the movie, plus, because we are known for our embellishments, we made these shrouds also which went on the coffin. For Angela Bassett, nearly 70 per cent of the clothes were from us and the 30 per cent which were not elaborate, Ruth did herself.
What kind of detailing went into it?
When she approached us, it’s our look she resonated with. There is a lot of trust with her. She gives her first thoughts and ideas and then the first sketches come in. After that there is a lot of to and fro and we work on finding the right textile and developing the right colours, working on the right prints. Our entire to and fro took about eight months because some of these garments were elaborate, like the maroon one where she is sitting on the throne.
It’s a fictional kingdom but it has Mayan and African influences. So, we had to work around those and develop prints. Then we had to start working on the embellishments. In the midst of all this, fittings was happening... so everything was happening simultaneously. So, every technique we were known for was employed, right from developing matka silks to working with signature prints to of course getting down to our antique embroidery which we excel in. I wanted the pieces to look like museum pieces. That’s my attempt every time that I don’t want things to look loud and garish. They should have a museum-like quality to them.
What was your biggest high?
My biggest high was to actually work with an Academy Award winner, a person who is highly accomplished and has a star on the Hollywood Walk of Fame, which she got last year. Then to work on probably one of 2022’s largest production from Marvel, it was humbling.
Have you seen the film?
Yes, of course, I was there on the first day. I had to! We also had a private special screening in Delhi for all those who haven’t seen it.
Is the experience of watching your creations on the big screen different from sending out your clothes on the ramp?
It is different for many reasons. Fashion design and costume design are two totally different things, especially in this case because fashion design is for real people who want to wear something which makes them look and feel special, but for costume design, especially for the movies I have been doing with Ruth, it’s all based on fictional kingdoms. So, you’ll have to be in sync with the director’s vision, the script has to fall in place. That’s where Ruth did a brilliant job of piecing together.... We only did 14-15 outfits but imagine, she designed 2,100 outfits.
What kind of films do you like watching?
I am an avid movie-goer. It’s some of my biggest highs and now imagine being a part of some of these. My all-time favourite is Tom Hanks and Forrest Gump was exceptional. Other than that, way back I used to like Steven Spielberg. I like all the Marvel movies. I love superhero movies. Then there are some offbeat and cutting-edge directors like Quentin Tarantino and Guy Ritchie who do the hatke movies, jise bolte hai. Monica, O My Darling is also off the beaten track.
Given that you have a cinematic lens through which you view the world, whose life would you like to design and capture on celluloid?
Most of the inspired people around the world were not known for their sartorial choices. They were exceptional and creative in their own way in different things. I have never really thought about this. I should think about this. I guess I’ll pick up somebody from the era of art deco when glamour was high.... I like a little quirk in everything. I don’t like mundane and boring, almost history-perfect depictures. Everything should have a bit of an edge