There’s no stopping JJ Valaya. After three decades at the forefront of the luxury fashion industry, his House of Valaya is further renewing its appeal with a bridge-to-luxury line — aimed at a new demographic. “As we celebrate our 30th year in fashion as a luxury occasion wear brand, we are also taking a step further into our world with the launch of our all-new bridge-to-luxury brand, JJV,” the designer tells us.
Valaya, a true proponent of homegrown fashion, has seen desi haute couture being born and reveals that he found some of his first patrons in Kolkata. The designer launched his eponymous label in 1992, and by the mid-aughts, had earned the reputation as a ‘czar of Indian couture’.
This year is already shaping up to be a big one for the designer. Not only has he come up with a sustainable line that recognises the changing face of luxury, but has also launched The World of Valaya last week, the brand’s new flagship location at New Delhi’s JW Marriott Hotel in Aerocity.
The two-storeyed concept store is spread across 12,000 square feet and is an embodiment of the Valaya experience, as it lines up the designer's work across fashion, lifestyle, art and photography. “A labour of love,” he called it, when My Kolkata caught up with him to learn more about his new line, his creative priorities, his special connection with Kolkata and more. Edited excerpts from the conversation…
My Kolkata: Tell us a little about your relationship with Kolkata…
JJ Valaya: When I started my career in 1992, my major buyer base was in Kolkata (I still like to call it Calcutta!). It’s amazing that people there have remained so appreciative of my work. Of late, I’m very happy to see there’s renewed interest from buyers from Kolkata. Kolkatans are wonderful people, they appreciate art and craft, and are emerging as loyalists. Very recently, a prominent family from Kolkata came to visit us. We didn’t know them, but the parents said: “We got married in your clothes and we wanted our children to come to you too.” And I thought that was so amazing… that after 25 years, the children also wanted to be a part of the same experience.
What sets Kolkata buyers apart?
I think it’s not about what they want… it’s about the experience. The kind of appreciation they show is so important. We all make beautiful clothes but if we have lasted for three decades, we’re clearly doing something that is resonating with buyers.
Kolkata understands this aspect, given the culture of art that prevails here. They really understand the effort that goes into each of our masterpieces and their true value. I think that adds to their experience and there’s nothing more special for a creator.
A glimpse at a JJV silhouette Courtesy: JJ Valaya
Tell us about JJV. What was the idea behind it?
Our byline is ‘The royal nomad’, given our penchant for all things royal — be it our shows or our spaces that are larger than life. Recently, I’ve come to realise that while we’re dressing up brides and grooms and creating masterpieces, there are so many other people who may not be getting married, but love our ethos. That’s how JJV, the brand, was born. I like to be a part of people’s celebrations. So whether it’s a simple dinner or a soiree or a concert, our brand can always be a part of that.
The line is about pieces that people can buy more often, it’s more accessible, it’s lighter, the pieces have very little embroidery, and there’s more focus on prints and fabrics. We’ve tied up with TENCEL Luxe and being responsible towards the planet is going to be the byline for our brand. The idea was to help the Valaya woman or man travel in style.
The line also pays a homage to your home…
Yes, in spirit, the brand is a tribute to Punjabi and Sikh splendour, and, more specifically, it is inspired by the unique life of Maharaja Jagatjit Singh of Kapurthala, the land of my forefathers, the Ahlowalias. Jagatjit Singh was an avid traveller and a lover of cultures. Long before the age of modern jetliners and social media, his travels in the United States, Argentina, Chile, Japan and Siberia were stories of legend. JJV sifted through never-seen-before photographs and extracts from his personal diaries and travelogues to interpret the story of a ruler who wanted to bring the world to his people and indeed, take his people to the world.
Tell us about The World of Valaya
It’s a labour of love! We spent two years putting it together – it’s our new flagship location in Delhi. It’s the spirit and soul of me and my brand. I’m personally very excited for this experience.