Warmth blended with good conversation and even better food. Nothing was amiss when we met The Daily cafe’s Urvika Kanoi at Cafe Duco. However, there was one small difference. The distance we travelled from the quiet lanes of south Calcutta to the bustling neighbourhood of Mumbai’s Bandra.
The 29-year-old’s maiden F&B venture in the western part of the country, Cafe Duco is an important milestone in Urvika’s journey as a chef-entrepreneur. “The funny thing is (Cafe) Duco wasn’t in the plans until May 2021. I just started looking for a place when I came to Mumbai for a small vacay. In fact, initially the plan was for a delivery kitchen,” said Urvika, chef-owner, Cafe Duco and The Daily cafe.
Cafe Duco celebrates Latin American and Mexican flavours and is a 23-seater. Dressed in neutrals and pastels, with an overall inviting look-and-feel, Duco utilises minimal space in a maximalist manner without looking too cramped. Here, you see the maturity in flavours and thought process that has gone into conceptualising the space. Pinterest has given way to instincts and experience in terms of decor inspirations, while Urvika’s sheer talent and honesty towards flavours has enhanced the food served a notch higher.
“The plan was always Mumbai from Day One. In fact, even before (The) Daily or The Food Studio (Urvika’s gourmet catering service) happened. It’s (Mumbai) always been my favourite city and it always felt like home,” said the Calcutta-born-and-bred, who called the Maximum City home for a few years when she worked under chefs like Kelvin Cheung and Gauri Devidayal.
The Daily that launched in 2019 had us at the word ‘go’ with its vibrancy, plethora of dishes and a dash of Urvika’s finesse. Cafe Duco is no different. It also abides by the same ethos as The Daily, focuses on minimal wastage and is born of love and travels.
The food at Duco is a riot of flavours and textures, and includes Vietnamese, Italian and Japanese cuisines, in addition to Latin American and Mexican. Think tacos, quesadillas, pork ribs, ceviche, soft shell crab fritters, gourmet salads, sandwiches and more. Beverages include coffee from Blue Tokai Coffee Roasters, tea and mocktails as well. We were thrilled to see our favourite from The Daily — a thoroughly refreshing London Summer, made with cucumber, elderflower and tonic — on the menu.
Chef and Owner Urvika Kanoi, Cafe Duco.
“Latin American is one of my favourite cuisines when it comes to both eating and cooking. It’s the kind of food that brings me joy. I have eaten at every new place that has opened in Mumbai on all my trips and I noticed that nobody was doing tacos here, or rather, focussing on it. I have tried tacos from every place in Mumbai, including Thane. Eventually, I started researching a lot because I just knew I wanted to do tacos. We have invested in a good coffee machine and our baristas,” added Urvika.
Ingredients are predominantly local, with a mix of imported. While there are local chillies like Bhavnagri and Kashmiri, there’s Habanero, chipotle, pasilla, and the typically Peruvian aji too.
Urvika might have gone smaller with the 480sqft Cafe Duco, in contrast to the 1,700-plus The Daily, but she has definitely gone bolder with flavours. The next time you are in Mumbai, don’t miss saying hi to this new kid, for a taste of big and bright flavours.
What We Loved
The taco fare includes Urvika’s homage to one of her favourite ingredients — mushroom. It’s showcased in a Wild Mushroom Taco that tangoes on the palate with its varied textures and burst of juiciness. There’s Butter Garlic Shrimp Taco too, with the most succulent prawns. It’s one of those dishes that you remember long after having tasted it. Then there’s Pork Carnitas with delicate and melt-in-the-mouth meat that’s slow-cooked for 14 hours. This must-have is accompanied with a Mojo Verde but trust us, you don’t need a dip to relish this star dish. The best part about biting into the tacos are the distinct flavours of each component that you experience.
Red Snapper Ceviche feels like ocean on the palate and consists of the traditional Peruvian, leche de tigre, which literally translates to ‘tiger’s milk’. With mild acidic and citrusy notes, and an aftertaste of chilli, it’s the ‘tiger’s milk’ that helps cure the fish and brings the whole dish together. There’s avocado, cucumber and in-house made chips as the other elements on the plate.
A refreshing crunchy barley salad with passion fruit and pomegranate finds a spot on the menu in the form of La Pasion. The tangy, balanced with spicy, and the motley of textures makes this dish tick many boxes.
The Roast Chicken with Peruvian Green Sauce feels like a comforting hug on a winter morning. It comprises tender chicken breast on a bed of smokey sweet potatoes, paired with the aromatic and bold Aji Verde or the Peruvian green sauce.
Bebe Elote or the Mexican-style corn-based dish is given a facelift by Urvika. It’s rich and creamy with a touch of heat, the kind that doesn’t let you stop at a couple of bites.
There’s Banoffee Empanada for desserts, served with a spiced dulce de leche and a glazed banana, to further intensify the flavours. We loved the glaze on the pastry and the combination of sweet, salty and spicy flavours that add an edge to this dish. The desserts are conceptualised at Duco but made by Anurita Ghoshal of Eighth by Chef Anurita.
What: Cafe Duco
Where: Shop No. 2, Kalpitam Apartments, 16th road, Pali Village, Khar West, near Hawaiian Shack, Mumbai
Timings: 11.30am to 11.30pm
Meal for two: Rs 2,000-plus