A popular combination to order at a north Indian restaurant is paratha with Butter Chicken or Butter Paneer. But what happens if the paratha itself is infused with the flavour of either?
“We are reducing the gravy of Butter Chicken or Butter Paneer and using that as the filling in kulcha paratha,” chef Debanjan Sinha explains the novelty.
Orko’s, the City Centre restaurant, is revamping its menu with several twists in the cooking pan. “It’s been 19 years since Orko’s opened here, almost since the start of City Centre. We have always been known for curries and kebabs. Now we have modernised the menu keeping the family clientele in mind as well as the youths who come, thanks to the lounge bar next door,” said Kaushik Sengupta, general manager of the Orko’s group.
While 40 per cent of the dishes are new, the Orko’s classics like Chicken Patiala and Mutton Galawati have not been touched, other than the presentation style.
The selection of Indian breads features interesting varieties like Parmesan Kulcha, Churchur Paratha (both priced Rs 178) and butter-fried Aloo Paratha (Rs 157). Churchur Paratha — similar to Petai Paratha of Bengal except that it is made of atta — is flaky and sits lumped on the plate, unlike any other paratha. “This is because this Punjabi bread is cooked on an upturned tawa, giving it a bowl shape. Then it is crushed, allowing flakes to come off. It is crispy from outside and soft inside,” said the chef.
The parathas go well with Murgh Tikka (Rs 734) or Jhinga Kali Mirch (Rs 892), cooked with black pepper and fried onion gravy.
One dish that is a kebab-paratha combination is Handi Patli Kebab (Rs 839). The kebab, made of slow-cooked minced mutton, is presented on a mini lachcha paratha each. On the subject of kebabs, the house speciality of Mutton Galawati (Rs 734) has a melt-in-the-mouth vegetarian option in Khumb (mushroom) Galawati at Rs 608.
Sengupta has brought back a dessert item popular in the 90s — fried vanilla ice cream — adding mascarpone cheese and candied fruits. Kulfi has also been introduced in crunchy caramel, malai, mango and tender coconut flavours other than a rather intriguing red velvet cheese option. “It would have the crumbles of the cake,” the chef explains.
Customers who are vocal for local can order traditional Calcutta snacks like Bhetki Roll filled with Mutton Keema (Rs 860 for a plate of three), Prawn Kabiraji (Rs 923) or Duck Egg Devil (Rs 546 for plate of three). The Beer-battered Bhekti (Rs 839 for plate of three) in this section is a reimagined version of Fish Orly, once a must-serve item at Calcutta’s wedding feasts.
The restaurant is also targeting the afternoon walk-ins for a 4pm to 7pm menu, the highlight of which are the three kinds of rolls. “Besides the vintage Chicken Kathi Kebab Roll from our old menu, there are Triple Egg Roll on Werqui paratha with Chicken Seekh (Rs 472), Mutton Patli Kebab Paratha Roll (Rs 514) and Paneer Tikka Bhurji Kathi Roll (Rs 409).
But if Southeast Asian food is your cuisine of choice,
The Telegraph Salt Lake recommends Japanese Udon noodles
(Rs 514). Rich in mushroom, eggs, tofu, yellow capsicum and broccoli, it is tasty, filling and subtle in flavour.