Michael Kors: With the backdrop of Grammy-winning Miguel’s covers of songs by Prince, the designer continued with his homage to his beloved New York City — this time, to the city’s dazzling nightlife. “I’m a native New Yorker and nothing can beat the excitement and energy of the city at night. I think now, more than ever, no matter where you are, everyone is craving a night on the town and stepping out in style,” he said. “This is the first time I’ve ever shown my collection to a live audience at night, and everything from the collection to the venue to the performance is all about celebrating a fabulous night out.” The collection featured styles that women can wear from date night to a night out in the city.
Christian Siriano: The designer brought to life the idea of a Victorian Matrix with an interesting colour palette and a packed front row. The colour blue played a key role with various shades finding centre stage, along with many textures. Playing to the trends, volume and cutouts also found their way to the collection. Other key pieces included a navy patent leather bodice and bolero and a coordinated tulle skirt, a blue suit with a corsetted waist, blazer and leather skirts.
Carolina Herrera: Evening dresses, tailored pants with an overskirt, a casual shirt with a balloon sleeve, floral separates, bejewelled jumpsuits and a pop of colours were Wes Gordon’s take on fall/winter this year. Great cuts, dramatic necklines and fine tailoring made up the collection that popped against the white backdrop of the NYFW runway.
Coach: Stuart Vevers kept it sleek and simple with a tight capsule comprising favourites that did not shy away from revisiting older styles. Shearlings and babydoll dresses, upcycled leather jackets, corduroy skirts and flannel shirts struck a nice balance between practical and dainty, with enough pickings for Valentine’s Day.
Tory Burch: “The Fall/Winter 2022 collection started with women in New York City — unique individuals who catch our eye in fleeting snapshots. We explored this through the lens of shape, geometry, colour and convertibility. A study in contrasts: tailored and deconstructed, opulent and spare, surrealist and sporty. The spirit of American sportswear is the through line connecting our seasons. Optimism and ease balance the collection’s heightened sense of luxury,” said Tory Burch in a presser for the collection. Sculpted, voluminous silhouettes contrast with clingy layers, asymmetrical wrap shirts and bustiers, geometric finale dresses in shades of chartreuse, cobalt and fuchsia, along with white and earthy shades of brown, made up the collection.
Brandon Maxwell: Taking inspiration from the love that he had for his grandmother and her love story with his grandfather, the designer translated that into a sleek collection for the runway. White, brown and black dominated the collection that paid attention to the need to be comfortable, along with being stylish. “I’ve taken detours into different places the past few seasons, based on what I thought people wanted or someone else’s expectations, but a lot of what’s going on in the world right now forced me to be me, and who I am is someone who loves a structured, tailored, forever garment,” said the designer in an interview with Hollywood Reporter, which perhaps sums up the collection best.
Jason Wu: Retro glamour and volume of the ’50s meet practicality of the present era for this collection that sees midis, skirts, ruffled dresses and lots of bow detailing. Wu’s inspiration came from illustrations from the fashion sketches of the 1950s, which he fused with things such as puffer jackets and waterproof fabric.
A slice of India at NYFW
Students from Inter National Institute of Fashion Design (iNIFD) in collaboration with London School of Trends showcased a sustainable collection called Indian Fashion Trunk at NYFW. Based on the theme of ‘craftsmanship of the future’, 52 designs were showcased at a subsidiary runway of the event that highlighted the craft diversity of the nation with a focus on textiles and colours. “The students have consciously sourced, manufactured and designed clothes using ethical fabrics, repurposed materials, ensuring zero wastage,” said Anil Khosla, CEO, iNIFD.
Pictures: Agencies