Tilfi Banaras’s new collection ‘Quarter to Time’ has the charming romance of vintage art and its fusion with the evergreen Benarasi. The colour palette is especially dreamy with lavenders, off-whites, pinks, peaches, blues and greens, adding to the stark raw and pleasing aesthetics, and the styling is modern-cool. t2 chatted with Aditi Chand, CEO and co-founder, Tilfi Banaras, on the inspiration behind ‘Quarter to Time’.
‘Quarter to Time’ looks really different from what you have done so far. Tell us about the mood board.
At Tilfi, untrammelled by convention, we frequently seek inspiration from art movements both within and outside of India, to reinvigorate our heritage crafts. In our ‘Peony Pavillion’ collection, we explored the Oriental art of scroll paintings. Through ‘SeeSaw’, we found abstract optical art as a wellspring of ideas. With our latest launch ‘Quarter to Time’, we have specifically found deep artistic synergies between 18th-century French Rococo art and Benarasi craftsmanship.
Rococo was an ornate and theatrical style which permeated fashion, architecture, and art in the 18th century in France, and was characterised by a uniquely lighthearted and playful essence. Many garments for men and women featured lavish silk brocades, and women’s silhouettes specifically had elements of corseted bodices, frills, laces, and exaggerated sleeves. In ‘Quarter to Time’, we have seamlessly intertwined all of these elements with classical Indian silhouettes. Our lehnga sets and saris feature blouses that have ruched bodices, puffed sleeves, and delicate viscose-organza trimmings which look like the frills and lacework which were popular during the Rococo period. The saris and lehnga skirts are made of ornate Benarasi brocades, with designs that feature curving forms, shell shapes, swaying florals and acanthus leaves, motifs which were prominent in the art and architecture of Rococo.
There is also a one-of-a-kind hand-embroidered tissue veil which can be paired with any of the lehnga sets for an opulent bridal ensemble. These garments are essentially classic and celebratory Indian attire which harmoniously and innovatively incorporate styles that have defined feminine wardrobes across diverse cultures and eras.
(Left) Aditi Chand, CEO and co-founder, Tilfi Banaras
What is the story that you are trying to tell this time?
The collection’s name, ‘Quarter to Time,’ is an allusion to the themes of impermanence and fleeting pleasures often found in Rococo paintings, suggesting both an anticipation for what might follow, and prompting a return from dreamscapes and reveries. Throughout this whole collection and the way in which we created the campaign, we strived to distil the essence of the Rococo era’s art, fashion, and architecture through gilded and naturalistic textile designs, the choice of a lighthearted pastel palette, and the style of subtly whimsical visual storytelling. The campaign images and films illustrate a sense of time passing in a liminal space, playing with moments that exist just before a change or transformation has to occur. Elements of nostalgia and artistic grandeur are also very much a part of the campaign which was shot amidst the splendour of heritage Indo-French architecture.
Is this also an effort to make Benarasi younger? And, reach a lot more people?
Our primary objective at Tilfi has never been to “make” the Benarasi younger. We firmly believe that Benaras’s craftsmanship possesses a unique, age-agnostic aesthetic that resonates with anyone who appreciates the beauty and finesse of this art form. The young today indeed demonstrate a heightened awareness of sustainability and a conscious appreciation of our traditional crafts. Many are naturally drawn to pieces which embody age-old artistry but reflect contemporary values. At Tilfi, we embrace this by offering meticulously crafted collections that speak to both tradition and modernity.
Our endeavour has always been to share the essence of Benarasi craftsmanship with a wider audience — not by altering its intrinsic identity, but by elevating storytelling and presenting refined, innovative products that showcase the exceptional artistry that Benaras has to offer.
Let’s talk about festive dressing... what are your favourites?
A sari is a classic choice and also a favourite. It is timeless in its appeal, yet endlessly versatile — a change of accompaniments can change its spirit entirely. A neutral kurta with delicate hand embroidery, paired with an exquisite Benarasi odhani is also an effortless ensemble. For occasions that are more casual or find you in the midst of busier times, a brocade skirt or pants can offer a quick nod to one’s heritage. For dressier and grander occasions, an opulent Benarasi lehnga makes for the perfect choice.
What from ‘Quarter of Time’ would you pick for day and evening looks?
For the day, any of our beautiful old rose pinks and peaches in Anne or Marie saris, and for the evening, the soft blues, pearly whites and the exquisite taupe-beiges. The Jeanne sari in any colour is an absolute favourite and the Gabrielle is a stunning statement for any time of day.
When it comes to festive saris, what are must-buys?
A Benarasi in its many forms is a definite must-have. A celebratory kora or a cotton jamdani for warmer days, or an opulent classical brocade in katan or satin silk for a cooler, evening festivity. A georgette can take one effortlessly between occasions and climes, and a tissue for when one wants to dazzle.