The brand might only be six years old but it’s already garnered 1.5 millions followers on Instagram with illustrious names on the list, and it has now launched in India with The Estée Lauder Companies and Nykaa. The Ordinary from the stable of DECIEM, a Toronto-based ‘functional beauty company’. The Telegraph caught up with Prudvi Kaka, chief scientific officer, DECIEM, to know more about the brand and its product range.
Welcome to India. You must be excited!
Yes, we are very excited! For so long we have been seeing comments and questions from our Indian audience about when DECIEM will launch in India, through our partnership with Nykaa we are finally able to make this a reality.
What are you debuting in India with?
We will be launching with an assortment of 30 products, these have been selected based on thorough research of the region, taking into account the seasonal changes and how skincare regimens need to adapt to this. Excitingly, we will be heroing our Vitamin C category, as well as well-loved acids including, Glycolic Acid 7% Toning Solution and our AHA 30% and BHA 2 % Peeling Solution.
What is the USP of Indian skin, for you?
Part of the magic of The Ordinary is that it belongs to everyone. We do not have a specific target consumer in mind for the line as it was truly made for all people, regardless of gender identity, age, and economic status. We just want to bring high quality, science-focused formulations through an educational lens to all humans across the globe.
Some of the products I see working well for the Indian consumer would be The Ordinary Squalane Cleanser, a gentle cleansing product that aims to remove facial impurities without stripping the skin of essential components that help to retain moisture. Vitamin C, also known as Ascorbic Acid, is an effective multifunctional ingredient. It has been shown to support antioxidants within the skin which can help with evening out skin tone, and improving skin brightness. Finally, for those with blemish-prone or congested skin, The Ordinary Niacinamide 10 % + Zinc 1 % and The Ordinary Salicylic Acid 2 % Masque has been proven to show great results.
Growing up, what was your fave home ingredient when it came to skincare?
Sapindus mukorossi, also known as soap nuts are native to India and Nepal and these as an ingredient have always grabbed my attention. Soap nuts have been traditionally used as cleansing agents due to their saponin content, which are naturally occurring compounds that act similarly to surfactants and provide similar functionality when used in cosmetic formulations. When saponins interact with water they provide soap-like properties like foaming, cleansing and conditioning. They are a valuable natural ingredient used in skincare.
What’s the ethos of The Ordinary?
The Ordinary was designed to communicate with authenticity and integrity, and bring to market effective, familiar and scientific-led technologies at honest prices. Transparency has always been at the heart of everything we do, whether it’s formulations, communication and efficacy.
The ideation of new formulations always starts in the DECIEM in-house lab, rather than with a marketing or trends team. We identify gaps in the skincare market, look for ways to incorporate new technologies into our portfolio of products, and analyse affordability to see if we are able to bring a product to the market that has traditionally been expensive to purchase.
Tell us something about the name...
The Ordinary is simply that — ordinary. In its name and nature, these formulations are single ingredients that have been well researched for many years and are science-driven and trusted. The serum names themselves are exactly what you will find within the product alongside the percentage at which they are present. For us that is simple and ordinary. We are not adding words to ultimately “fluff” up what you are applying. It is science.
What are some of the skincare myths?
Myths within the skincare industry have been around for a very long time. These myths are perpetuated for various reasons, some being marketing tactics and others just misinformation and misunderstanding of the science of skincare. Some common myths include, natural and organic skincare is safer than conventional skincare, sunscreens only need to be worn in summer, sunscreen only is needed for those with lighter skin, silicones are not safe, etc.
Natural or organic being safer than conventional skincare is false, as it is required for all cosmetics that are sold to be safe for human use according to the regulatory bodies. At DECIEM we ensure we conduct proper clinical safety tests to ensure our products do not cause any harm, through proper consumer use.
With sunscreen, it is important to wear UV protection daily, throughout the whole year, not just summer. Cloudy days do not block UV rays, these harmful rays are still able to penetrate the skin, so it is important to apply UV protection daily to prevent skin damage that can also speed up the appearance of visible signs of ageing. Sunscreen should also be worn by everyone, some think that darker skin is not affected by harmful UV rays, however, this is false. Even though darker skin does have more natural protection from UV rays, it is not fully protective, there is still harmful sun damage occurring to the skin. So, always make sure to protect the skin with sunscreen or other forms of UV protection.
Stating all silicones are not safe is incorrect. The safety of silicones used in cosmetics has been extensively assessed by researchers, with necessary bans and restrictions already put in place. Silicones are valuable ingredients that work to enhance the texture of a product, mattifying the skin, and allowing for long-wearing colour cosmetics. Silicones, particularly polymers and other large molecules, are completely inert and unable to pass the dermal barrier. They are also not volatile, making their inhalation unlikely. Their safety to humans has been assessed and no concerns have arisen.
Prudvi Kaka
What are skincare must-haves in 2022?
More than a single product, I would recommend any consumer to first build a skincare regimen that maximises the results they desire for their skin. The basic functions of a skincare regimen should always cover adequate cleansing and moisturising of the skin. We recommend using no more than three serums in a single regimen for optimal layering and ingredient delivery. When building a regimen start off with the basics with adequate cleansing. Then, focus on your skin concerns of priority by introducing serums that would target those priority concerns. Lastly, we recommend finishing off the regimen with a moisturiser.
Skincare should start at what age?
Skincare can be started at any age, it depends on each person’s needs and when they feel it is necessary to address any skin concerns of priority. It should be noted that DECIEM’s products are intended for adult skin. Though we have no reason to think that DECIEM’s products would be harmful for young people, less mature/younger skin is often more sensitive and frequently changing. For young people we recommend a simple routine of cleansing and hydrating as we do not want to interfere with skin development. For persistent skin issues or specific concerns, we suggest consulting with your doctor/dermatologist about safe and suitable treatments.
What are your personal skincare faves?
Personally, one of my favourite products from The Ordinary is our “Buffet” + Copper Peptides 1% serum as it’s packed full of ingredients which help with skin smoothness, texture, and signs of ageing. I also really enjoy our Salicylic Acid 2% Masque, containing salicylic acid, a very well-studied beta-hydroxy acid. This is a staple masque for those looking to target the removal of dead skin cells on the surface of oily and blemish-prone skin, with the purpose of revealing more radiant skin beneath.