Calcutta-based textile designer Sujata Sarawgi is relaunching her studio space Sujata’s Weaves and Prints with her new Abstractions collection in a new location in Ballygunge. In her sprawling apartment on Ironside Road, the 1000 sq ft. studio space houses saris, dupattas-kameez suits, stoles and fabrics in handblock printing and hand embroidery. We had a short conversation with the Sophia Polytechnic College’s alumnusabout the 1998-born brand’s stay-afloat strategy and what it means to run a niche studiospace when big-time retailers rule the roost with their competitive pricing.
Why did you relaunch your brand?
Collection of saris and suits
We have moved to this new location from our earlieraddress in Esplanade. Our new collection, which we have aptly named Abstract, is based on abstract geometric patterns. Earlier we did not have a proper retail space where people would come to and buy from. There was only a small office where we would stock up on our products. We would only take part in exhibitions taking place in different galleries/exhibition centers.
How is your studio space different from any other boutique store?
Here one has to come strictly by appointment. We do not mass-produce our offerings. We could have also marketed our products better and reached more consumers, but I wanted to do something thatIcould personally involve with. The moment you have a lot of people working for you and the products are selling across India, the personal touch is lost somewhere. I want to sit with my clients, have tea or coffee, andlet them spend time with the textiles and if they wish to get one, they can get one. We do unique, one-of-a-kind pieces and no pieces have identical designs.
A tussar silk saree on abstract design
What made you choose abstract patterns?
My inspiration has been my holidays in Africa. I have picked up my motifs from Kente Textiles. We tend to stay away from floral prints that Rajasthan is known for. I wanted to do things that others don’t. For the same reason, I do not do folk arts either. However, we do kantha embroidery. Geometry to me is simplicity. My designs are simple, just like my home. You will see many of these products have simple threads printed on them and then these threads come in different patterns too. Threads are a constant in my designs. We do a lot of hand-block prints. Many of these motifs are geometrical patterns- squares, rhombus and triangles in myriad colours. Life is all about forging relationships and our relationships are just like these threads. My grandparents were into spinning yarns to make themes. They would wear Khadi fabric. And as a child, seeing them spinning yarns would make me inquisitive. My grandma would tell me if a thread snaps, we would have to reweave the entire thing. Just like your relationships in life. You have to reweave it once it comes off. Spinning yarns is a great practice of patience and meditation.
What fabric do you use for your pieces?
A Tussar silk sari on shaded threads design
We have Tussar, silk wool and cotton silk. We have 55-60 women working with us. All our products are handwoven, hand-embroidered and block printed. They go through multiple hands before they reach me.
Is there a special significance attached to your brand name?
It’s no less than weaving dreams and spells of magic in your life.
You have used a lot of vibrant colours in your textiles.
You can wear them for years to come, and they don’t go bad. It’s almost like an heirloom. Recently we had a customer who wanted the same saree for herself, her mother-in-law and her mother. It was thoughtful of her... so we gave her one saree and printed three different blouse pieces because it’s the same saree for three different people spanning generations. The use of myriad colours was a conscious decision, keeping in mind the young generation who would more often than not dismiss handloom sarees as monotonous/ boring types. And the colours are heavily influenced by our beautiful Durga Puja pandals.
What is the price range for your products?
Stoles made with abstract African designs
They start at Rs 2,200 (the stoles) and go up to Rs 28,000 (kantha sarees).
The exhibition is on August 22 and 23.