If you browse through the schedules of international fashion weeks, including the big four (London, Paris, Milan and New York), an interesting fact that catches your eye is the increasing number of Asian designers that showcase their collections. And the numbers keep rising every season. While the big ones like Bibhu Mohapatra, Issey Miyake or Yohji Yamamoto have been fixtures for a while, it’s the new names that get added every season that draws our attention. Be it from India, Japan or South Korea, the influence of Asian designers is gaining prominence rapidly and steadily in the ever-evolving landscape of global fashion that was once dominated by the European design giants. A fresh generation of Asian designers is making its mark on the world stage. From India’s rich tapestry of traditions to Japan’s avant-garde spirit, these designers are redefining the boundaries of fashion, infusing their unique cultural perspectives and innovative approaches into their creations. Each has carved their own distinct path, infusing their designs with a harmonious blend of heritage and contemporary influences. We turn the spotlight on 10 top names from Asia who are captivating the fashion world globally with their artistry, craftsmanship, and visionary designs.
A model walks the runway at the Bibhu Mohapatra show during the Mercedes-Benz Fashion Days Zurich 2014
BIBHU MOHAPATRA BRAND: BIBHU MOHAPATRA FROM: INDIA DESIGNING SINCE: 2008
Background: Bibhu Mohapatra, hailing from Odisha, has carved a prominent place for himself in the world of fashion. Growing up in a culturally rich environment, he developed a deep appreciation for art, craftsmanship, and traditional Indian textiles. He ventured to the United States to pursue a career in fashion. Armed with a background in design and a keen eye for detail, he honed his skills at the renowned Fashion Institute of Technology in New York City. Bibhu’s journey from Odisha to the fashion capital of the world laid the foundation for his eponymous label, Bibhu Mohapatra, which would soon become synonymous with elegance and sophistication.
Design DNA: Bibhu’s designs seamlessly fuse his Indian heritage with Western influences, resulting in creationsthatarebothculturallyrichandgloballyappealing. Known for his exceptional attention to detail, he revitalises traditional craftsmanship while infusing a modern sensibility into his designs. His collections often feature intricate hand-embroideries, showcasing the immense skill of Indian artisans. Luxurious fabrics, such as silk and organza, are carefully selected to lend a sense of opulence to his creations. Impeccable tailoring and a meticulous approach to construction ensure that each piece from Bibhu Mohapatra exudes sophistication and elegance. His designs strike a balance between classic silhouettes and contemporary elements, appealing to the modern woman who seeks timeless yet forward-thinking fashion.
Achievements: Bibhu’s creations have adorned prominent personalities and red carpets around the world,solidifyinghisreputationasadesignerofexceptional calibre. Former US First Lady Michelle Obama, a beacon of style and grace, has been spotted wearing his designs on multiple occasions, catapulting Bibhu into the global spotlight. Acclaimed actress Lupita Nyong’o has chosen Bibhu Mohapatra gowns for several high-profile events, further cementing his position as a designer favoured by Hollywood’s elite. Bibhu’s label has been honored with prestigious awards, including the Ecco Domani Fashion Fund Award, which recognises emerging talents in the industry, and the Rising Star Award at the Fashion Group International Night of Stars, celebrating his remarkable contributions to the world of fashion.
YOHJI YAMAMOTO BRAND: YOHJI YAMAMOTO FROM: JAPAN DESIGNING SINCE: 1972
Background: Born in Tokyo in 1943, Yamamoto’s journey into fashion began with a rebellious spirit and a desire to challenge traditional norms. After studying law at Keio University, he shifted gears and pursued fashion design at Bunka Fashion College, where his exceptional talent became apparent. In 1972, Yamamoto launched his eponymous label and quickly gained recognition for his unconventional approach to design. His innovative and thought-provoking creations captured the attention of the fashion world, propelling him to the forefront of the industry.
Design DNA: Yohji Yamamoto’s designs are characterised by their avant-garde aesthetic, deconstructed silhouettes, and a sense of raw beauty. Embracing asymmetry and unconventional proportions, he challenges conventional notions of form and structure. Yamamoto’s love for black and a monochromatic colour palette is evident in his collections, which evokes a sense of mystery and sophistication. He effortlessly blends traditional Japanese aesthetics, such as kimono-inspired draping and the use of natural fibres like linen and wool, with contemporary elements. The result is a harmonious fusion of the past and present, East and West, that captivates the imagination and transcends cultural boundaries.
Achievements: Yamamoto’s visionary contributions to the fashion industry have garnered him numerous accolades and recognition. In 2003, he was awarded the Order of Culture, one of Japan’s highest honours, by the Japanese government. This prestigious recognition speaks of his profound impact on Japanese culture and the fashion world. Yamamoto has received international acclaim, including the Lifetime Achievement Award from the Council of Fashion Designers of America (CFDA). Yamamoto’s designs have graced runways around the world. His ability to challenge norms and provoke emotion through his creations has solidified his status as a true legend in the industry.
Models walk the runway during the Y-3 Menswear Fall/Winter 2015-2016 show as part of Paris Fashion Week
Models walk the runway during the Issey Miyake show as part of the Paris Fashion Week Womenswear Fall/Winter 2016/2017
ISSEY MIYAKE BRAND: ISSEY MIYAKE FROM: JAPAN DESIGNING SINCE: 1970
Background: Issey Miyake, a Japanese fashion luminary, has revolutionised the industry with his visionary approach to design. Born in Hiroshima, Japan in 1938, Miyake’s journey into fashion began with a fascination for clothing and a desire to create garments that were both innovative and functional and that continued till his death in 2022. After studying graphic design at Tama Art University in Tokyo, he embarked on a career that would reshape the fashion landscape. In 1971, Miyake founded his eponymous label, Issey Miyake, and introduced the world to his distinctive aesthetic and groundbreaking techniques.
Design DNA: Issey Miyake’s designs were characterised by their simplicity, functionality, and a deep understanding of the relationship between fabric and movement. His philosophy centred around the idea that clothing should enhance the wearer’s freedom and express their individuality. One of Miyake’s most iconic contributions to fashion was his revolutionary pleating technique. By incorporating pleats into his designs, he challenged traditional notions of garment construction and created garments that were both versatile and visually striking. Miyake’s pleating method allows the fabric to retain its shape, enabling garments to be folded and stored while remaining wrinkle-free. Miyake was known for his constant exploration of new materials and technologies. He had collaborated with scientists and engineers to develop fabrics that respond to the body’s movements using cutting-edge technologies, or utilised environmentally friendly production methods.
Achievements: Issey Miyake’s contributions to the fashion industry have been widely recognised and celebrated. Throughout his career, he has received numerous awards and honours, cementing his status as a true design icon. In 2005, he was awarded the Design for Asia Award for his outstanding contributions to the Asian design landscape. This accolade recognised his ability to merge traditional Japanese aesthetics with contemporary design sensibilities, creating a unique and influential style that resonates globally. Miyake’s impact on the industry was also acknowledged in 2019 when he received the Praemium Imperiale for Design from the Japan Art Association. Beyond awards, Miyake’s designs have been featured in prominent museums and exhibitions worldwide such as the Museum of Modern Art in New York, the Victoria and Albert Museum in London, and the National Art Center in Tokyo. They not only speak of the artistic value of Miyake’s creations but also highlight the impact he has had on the intersection of fashion and art.
A wedding ensemble by Sabyasachi displayed at the Victoria and Albert Museum in London.
SABYASACHI MUKHERJEE BRAND: SABYASACHI CALCUTTA FROM: INDIA DESIGNING SINCE: 1999
Background: Our very own Sabyasachi who put Calcutta on the global fashion map, was born into a Bengali family and developed a deep love for art and design from an early age. After completing his education at the National Institute of Fashion Technology in Calcutta, he embarked on a journey to revive and celebrate the traditional art forms of India through his eponymous label, Sabyasachi Calcutta.
Design DNA: Sabyasachi’s design aesthetic is based on maximalism and his designs are a testament to his deep appreciation for Indian culture and heritage. He seamlessly blends traditional textiles, intricate embroidery, and vibrant colours to create pieces that evoke a sense of grandeur and opulence. His collections feature rich textiles, such as silk, Benarasi brocade, and rich velvet, meticulously adorned with intricate embellishments and traditional techniques like zardosi and chikankari. Sabya’s ability to reimagine traditional Indian textiles and transform them into modern, luxurious ensembles has made him a sought-after designer both in India and internationally.
Achievements: Sabya’s label has gained international recognition and has been adorned by esteemed personalities all over the world. His designs have graced the red carpets of prestigious events and adorned the covers of renowned fashion magazines. From Virat Kohli, Anushka Sharma to Deepika Padukone, his bridal wear finds favour with celebrities and esteemed personalities across the globe. His ability to capture the essence of a traditional Indian wedding in his designs, along with his exceptional craftsmanship, has earned him a dedicated following. Sabya’s nowfamous jewellery label was a natural extension of his clothing label. He also has to his credit numerous prestigious collaborations with some of the most esteemed brands across the globe in the lifestyle space. Throughout his career, Mukherjee has received numerous accolades and awards for his contributions to the world of fashion. He was honored with the National Award for Best Costume Design in Indian cinema for Black. His designs have been showcased in international exhibitions, including the Victoria and Albert Museum in London, further solidifying his position as a trailblazer in the realm of Indian fashion. As recent as last month, King Charles III and Queen Camilla wore shola masks made by Sabya at the Animal Ball 2023 in London, and that was definitely not his first brush with royalty.
Models showcase design by Prabal Gurung Fall 2014 collection during the Audi Fashion Festival in Singapore
PRABAL GURUNG BRAND: PRABAL GURUNG FROM: NEPAL DESIGNING SINCE: 2009
Background: Prabal Gurung, born in Singapore and raised in Nepal, is a renowned NepaleseAmerican fashion designer. Growing up in a multicultural environment, Gurung developed a deep appreciation for diversity and a passion for design. After completing his education in New Delhi and London, he moved to New York to pursue his dream of becoming a fashion designer. In 2009, Gurung launched his eponymous label, Prabal Gurung, and quickly gained recognition for his exceptional talent and unique design aesthetic.
Design DNA: Gurung’s designs are a celebration of modern aesthetics infused with traditional craftsmanship. He effortlessly combines elements from his Nepalese heritage with contemporary influences, resulting in collections that are both visually stunning and thought-provoking. Gurung’s designs often feature bold and vibrant prints, intricate draping, and innovative silhouettes that empower and celebrate the female form. His commitment to inclusivity and diversity is evident in his casting choices, as he strives to represent a range of ethnicities, body types, and ages on his runways.
Achievements: Gurung has earned numerous accolades and opportunities to dress influential figures. His creations have graced red carpets and he has dressed celebrities like Michelle Obama, Meghan Markle and Oprah Winfrey. Gurung has been the recipient of awards such as the CFDA Swarovski Award for Womenswear, the Fashion Group International Rising Star Award, and the Forbes 30 Under 30 honour. These accolades not only highlight his exceptional design skills, but also acknowledge his commitment to using fashion as a platform for social change and promoting inclusivity in the industry.
Models showcase designs on the catwalk by Vera Wang during the inaugural Mastercard Luxury Week Hong Kong
VERA WANG BRAND: VERA WANG FROM: US (OF CHINESE DESCENT) DESIGNING SINCE: 1990
Background: Vera Wang has become synonymous with bridal couture and exquisite ready-to-wear designs. Born and raised in New York, Wang initially made a name for herself as a professional figure skater. However, fate had different plans for her. After retiring from competitive skating, Wang turned her attention to fashion, working her way up the ranks in fashion houses such as Vogue and Ralph Lauren. It was during her time at Ralph Lauren that Wang found her true calling in bridal design. In 1990, she launched her eponymous label, Vera Wang, and the rest is history.
Design DNA: Wang’s design aesthetic is characterised by timeless elegance, impeccable craftsmanship, and a keen eye for detail. Her bridal collections are renowned for their romantic silhouettes, intricate detailing, and luxurious fabrics. Her designs often feature delicate lace, exquisite beadwork, and architectural draping, resulting in garments that are both ethereal and fashion-forward. Wang’s ready-to-wear collections also reflect her ability to create chic pieces that resonate with women from all walks of life.
Achievements: Wang is synonymous with excellence in bridal wear. Her commitment to redefining the concept of a wedding gown has earned her accolades, including the CFDA Womenswear Designer of the Year award. Wang has also expanded into fragrances, accessories, home goods, and a collaboration with affordable fashion retailer Kohl’s. Her ability to diversify her brand while maintaining her signature design aesthetic is a testament to her creative vision. As an Asian-American designer, she has broken barriers, paving the way for future generations of designers from diverse backgrounds.
CHITOSE ABE BRAND: SACAI FROM: JAPAN DESIGNING SINCE: 1999
Background: Japanese designer Chitose Abe is the creative mind behind Sacai known for her unique and innovative designs. Born and raised in Japan, Abe developed a passion for fashion early and studied at the renowned Bunka Fashion College in Tokyo. There she cultivated her love for blending contrasting elements to create things new and unexpected. She continues to challenge the status quo and traditional fashion norms.
Design DNA: Abe’s design philosophy is rooted in the exploration of hybridity and the fusion of contrasting elements. She can seamlessly blend sportswear aesthetics with traditional tailoring, resulting in garments that are both functional and high fashion. Abe’s designs are characterised by unexpected fabric combinations, intricate layering, and playful proportions. Her approach challenges the conventional notions of construction, creating dynamic and unconventional silhouettes that captivate and inspire.
Achievements: Abe’s innovative design aesthetic and unique approach have got critical acclaim within the fashion industry. Her collections have graced prestigious international runways, captivating audiences with their refreshing and unconventional take on fashion. Her ability to seamlessly merge different design elements has earned her collaborations with brands such as Nike and The North Face, further cementing her reputation as a design maverick. Abe’s designs are emblematic of the innovative and forward-thinking spirit of Japanese fashion, and she has bolstered her country’s reputation as a global fashion powerhouse. Through her work, Abe has inspired a new generation of designers to embrace their own unique vision.
REI KAWAKUBO BRAND: COMME DES GARÇONS FROM: JAPAN DESIGNING SINCE: 1969
Background: Rei Kawakubo, the enigmatic Japanese designer, is a true revolutionary in the world of fashion. Born and raised in Tokyo, Kawakubo began her career in the fashion industry as a freelance stylist before venturing into design. In 1969, she founded Comme des Garçons, a label that would soon disrupt the fashion scene with its unconventional and avant-garde approach.
Design DNA: Kawakubo’s creations are characterised by their asymmetry, unconventional silhouettes, and deconstructed elements. Kawakubo challenges the concept of beauty, often blurring the lines between fashion and art. She explores the boundaries of shape, volume and texture, pushing the limits of what clothing can be. Her designs are often described as “anti-fashion”, as they defy mainstream trends and conventions.
Achievements: Kawakubo has been honoured with prestigious awards that include the CFDA International Award and the Fashion Group International Award for Fashion Leadership. Her designs have been showcased in major museums and galleries around the world, solidifying her status as an artist and visionary beyond the realm of fashion. Comme des Garçons, under Kawakubo’s creative direction, has become an iconic brand. Kawakubo’s fearless exploration of new forms, materials, and concepts has sparked conversations and pushed the boundaries of creativity in the industry. Her impact extends far beyond the runway, shaping cultural and artistic movements.
RAHUL MISHRA BRAND: RAHUL MISHRA FROM: INDIA DESIGNING SINCE: 2008
Background: Rahul Mishra hails from Kanpur and is one of the most recent success stories from India in the global fashion scene. The young designer has made a significant impact with his extraordinary craftsmanship and sustainable design ethos. Born and raised in a small town, Mishra’s journey to becoming a renowned designer was filled with determination and perseverance. He honed his skills at the National Institute of Design in Ahmedabad, before pursuing further education in Milan.
Design DNA: Mishra’s design philosophy is deeply rooted in celebrating the traditional Indian techniques and reviving the fading artistry of handwork. His designs blend age-old craftsmanship with a contemporary sensibility, creating exquisite pieces that showcase the best of both worlds. He is known for his intricate hand-embroidery, delicate threadwork, and innovative fabric manipulations. Each garment tells a story, reflecting the heritage, culture, and narratives of India. His designs often feature ethereal silhouettes, intricate patterns, and a harmonious play of textures. Mishra strives to incorporate organic fabrics, support local artisans, and minimise waste, making him a champion of ethical and eco-conscious fashion.
Achievements: In 2014, Mishra became the first Indian designer to win the International Woolmark Prize, a global accolade recognising outstanding design and craftsmanship. This accomplishment catapulted him onto the international stage. His designs have graced the runways of major fashion weeks, from Paris to New York. Mishra’s impact extends beyond the realm of fashion. He has been a passionate advocate for preserving traditional craftsmanship and empowering local artisans. Through his label, he has provided employment opportunities to artisans in rural India, helping to sustain their livelihoods and revive dying crafts.
PHILLIP LIM BRAND: 3.1 PHILLIP LIM FROM: US (OF CHINESE DESCENT) DESIGNING SINCE: 2005
Background: Phillip Lim, an American designer of Chinese descent, has made a significant impact in the fashion industry with his eponymous label, 3.1 Phillip Lim. Born and raised in Southern California, Lim’s upbringing in a diverse and vibrant environment shaped his unique perspective on fashion. He discovered his passion for design early and studied at the prestigious Fashion Institute of Technology in New York City. After working with renowned designers such as Katayone Adeli and Development, Lim started his own label in 2005 with the vision of creating effortlessly cool and versatile clothing.
Design DNA: Phillip Lim’s design aesthetic is characterised by a harmonious fusion of classic elegance and contemporary edge. Lim is known for his ability to balance clean lines, thoughtful tailoring, and unexpected details. His designs often incorporate a mix of fabrics, textures, and patterns, showcasing his ability to create dynamic and visually intriguing pieces.
Achievements: In 2007, Lim received the CFDA Swarovski Award for Womenswear, which celebrates emerging talent. This had solidified his position as a promising designer. Since then, his label has gained a global following and is stocked in renowned retailers worldwide. Lim’s designs have been embraced by fashion-forward individuals who appreciate his ability to create versatile pieces that effortlessly transition from day to night. Lim is admired for his commitment to sustainability and social responsibility. He seeks out ways to minimise the environmental impact of his label, employing eco-friendly practices and materials whenever possible. Lim also collaborates with charitable organisations to support causes close to his heart.